FuryRebuild
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| posted on 12/3/12 at 08:39 PM |
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Duratec crank - remove big-end single unit help
Dear Collective
I wonder if I'm missing some trick short of brute force to get the big-end single piece from my 2.0 duratec.
I like the way Ford designed this indeed - single piece, nicely cross-braced, nicely case, room around each big-end bolt to get a socket in without
issue.
I removed the bolts a quarter turn at a time (all bolts turned a quarter of a turn, that is, rather than undoing one bolt at a time). I followed a
cross/star pattern of undoing (e.g. #1 top, #5 bottom, #top, #1 bottom, repeat for 2 and 4, then 3). Everything came loose with a satisfying amount of
resistance, although a couple did hiss a little (hydro-lock in the factory?).
So, my question is how to get the big-end maincase off? I tried whacking it with the soft mallet. I tried attaching the engine crane to the main case
(on the side bolts) and lifting it to pull them apart (it's on the engine stand - divvent worry).
Nothing - it's not budging.
Does anyone have a technique? I'm reluctant to get a crow-bar in there (its end wrapped in cloth) but am puzzled. I also think all this ally is
a little fragile, so am avoiding any liberal application of the number one instrument.
My plan is to leave the head on until I have the crank out, keyed, returned. then i'll rebolt the pistons to the crank and get the head off. If
I can avoid disturbing the pistons in the bores I will - they're nicely bedded in, as are the rings, etc.
Everything turns nice and loosely (with initial sticktion) until #1 piston taps the valve - no problem there, the timing chains are off.
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pjay
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| posted on 12/3/12 at 09:35 PM |
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I use a length of thick wood to gently lever under the girdle where the oil pump fits (oil pump removed though) - inch thick IIRC. A bit of gentle
persuasion (with the BE bolts still fitted but good couple of turns undone).
Done this on two engines now and worked a treat - just needs patience.
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 12/3/12 at 10:30 PM |
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Thanks pjay - I was trying to avoid taking the pump out (Haynes goes through a whole alignment procedure for putting it back with a mythical alignment
tool i don't have).
I can see why you'd keep the bolts in - keeps the whole girdle aligned when extracting it.
The patience point is a good one -this is why i decided to leave it alone tonight. There wasn't an obvious place to apply force.
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 12/3/12 at 10:52 PM |
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Heh, and Haynes also cop out and say "you can't dismantle the petrol duratecs. if you break them, get a whole short assembly from
ford".
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pjay
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| posted on 13/3/12 at 07:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by FuryRebuild
Heh, and Haynes also cop out and say "you can't dismantle the petrol duratecs. if you break them, get a whole short assembly from
ford".
Yep that made me LOL!
When you say oil pump alignment tool do mean the tool for holding the sprocket? I made something up out of two pieces of metal and some bolts.
To remove the girdle it needs a fair amount of leverage so if you could remove the pump it would make a hell of a difference (three bolts and possibly
a gasket).
I assume you have the PDF Duratec assembly chart - shows what's involved, torque values etc? Also give you a chance to inspect the pump.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 13/3/12 at 08:51 PM |
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Taken the rods off the crank? If so just use a soft hammer and bash the crank a couple of times each end, normally gets it moving... they are quite
snug.
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