Apollo1600
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posted on 23/4/12 at 06:34 PM |
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Urgent Zetec problems!
Hi There,
A friend of mine was trying to change his Ford focus's cambelt. Its a 1.6. He got as far as trying to undo the crank bolt and ended up snapping
the back of the camshaft with the locking tool. Not sure if this will affect running or not? Anyway he still has managed to get the bolt off. Would a
impact wrench do it? He has been using a socket with a massive leaver bar and still no joy.
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snapper
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posted on 23/4/12 at 06:46 PM |
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Thought all you needed to do was loosen the belt tensioner and takeit off?
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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britishtrident
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posted on 23/4/12 at 06:47 PM |
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Tradditional way of slackening crank pulley bolts is a long power bar with a tight fitting socket, am end of bar against the ground or
chassiss, then hit the starter once or more.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Apollo1600
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posted on 23/4/12 at 06:52 PM |
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Might get him to give that a try, will the camshaft affect the running?
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avagolen
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posted on 23/4/12 at 06:56 PM |
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Hi, the locking tool is only to be used for cam timing.
The bolts on the cam gears are removed by holding the cam gear with a specific
tool that can be made or bought.
The bolts can be very tight, even though they are only tightened up to 50 ft/lbs.
I ripped the inside of mine out and ended up drilling the center until the tension released and buying new bolts.
HTH
Len.
The Answer for everything, but never the last word....
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DH2
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posted on 23/4/12 at 07:01 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by snapper
Thought all you needed to do was loosen the belt tensioner and takeit off?
This. Why do you need to undo the crank pulley?
As you have discovered, locking the crank with the cam locking tool is not going to work out... nor is using the TDC locking pin, before you try that
too!
As it's a Focus, this will be a Zetec SE, not a Zetec E. The crank pulley is done up very tight, as it is not keyed. Haven't managed to
get mine undone yet (but haven't tried very hard).
DH2
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Apollo1600
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posted on 23/4/12 at 07:01 PM |
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Blimey okay, he hasn't tried the cam bolts yet he is still struggling to get the crank pulley one off. Not sure what to try!
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Greenbusa
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posted on 23/4/12 at 07:17 PM |
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You need a decent air gun or electric type impact (snap on best).. If you are going to try locking part of the engine to aid undoing the crank bolt go
for the flywheel teeth by removing starter..but go for the gun.. As for the cam there's a bit missing so it not going to run true but that end
don't do anything...
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dray13dad
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posted on 23/4/12 at 07:25 PM |
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Don't try with socket and bar jammed on the floor and hit start button,you could do on older stuff but these days the pulley is not key wayed so
the only thing stopping the inner pulley (what cam belt runs on) is the tightness of the pulley bolt.
either remove the starter motor and jam a heavy lever bar in there or warm the end of pulley bolt and let the heat run down before undoing(do this on
all honda engines and never fails.
dont forget you will need crank pin as well for setting up when doing cam belt.
If he aint sure best get to a garage before he ends up witha big bill.
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nickm
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posted on 23/4/12 at 07:54 PM |
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Is the home made Y bar as per Haynes manual not worth a try ? also comes in usefull for the cams later on.
Nick M
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me!
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posted on 23/4/12 at 08:03 PM |
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If the cam pulley bolts are anything like they were on my Zetec E I hope your friend is feeling strong!
Mine bent the cam holding tool, resisted a mains powered impact wrench, pulled themselves out of a pretty serious vice with a 30" breaker bar
on, and ended up having to be taken off in a lathe!
The impact wrench took the crank pulley bolt off in seconds though- machine mart job.
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speedygonzales
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posted on 23/4/12 at 08:53 PM |
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I've designed crank dampers in one of my previous occupations and I can sympathise with your troubles. One of the damper joints I worked on had
an M18 bolt that was tightened to yield (about 600Nm).
If you want the easiest way to remove the bolt you need to get your hands on a torque multiplier and make yourself a reaction bar to counter the
reaction loads. Failing that a piece of box section might do it.
If you don't have access to these tools, an impact wrench might get it off if you're lucky. Locking the flywheel does work but can
sometime damage the teeth if the reaction loads are high enough.
Just a thought (and i'm not sure with your particular engine) but it might be worth checking to see if the bolt is a left hand thread.
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daviep
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posted on 23/4/12 at 09:28 PM |
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Easiest way to hold the crank for removing the bolt is to make up a tool to fit into the pulley, you can buy the correct tool but they are quite
expensive for what it is.
I used a piece of scrap pipe with 3x 10mm nuts welded on to make the lugs and a piece of scrap bar for a handle.
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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