omega0684
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posted on 2/5/12 at 10:45 AM |
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Valve Stem Seal Replacement: Pinto
Hi All,
Do any of you know any tricks to changing a valve stem seal on a pinto without taking the head off?
i have tried the rope down the bore trick but when compressing the spring the valve just compresses the rope in the cylinder (even though i have
filled it as full as i can?
Help needed . . .
Cheers Guys
Alex
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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garybee
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posted on 2/5/12 at 11:17 AM |
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Are you filling it at the bottom of the stroke then turning the crank to compress the string?
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chillis
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posted on 2/5/12 at 11:51 AM |
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I once replaced a valve spring with out taking the head off. Made a spark plug adapter to connect to the workshop compressed air. Made a crank locking
device to hold the crank at TDC just in case the shop air failed didn't want to loose the valve down the valve guide Made another tool to
compress the valve spring and Bob 's you're uncle (well actually he's my uncle, though for some reason he's known as Bert to
is mates?)
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melly-g
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posted on 2/5/12 at 12:07 PM |
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Yep same as above! adapt a plug to connect to compressed air supply, works great!
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NigeEss
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posted on 2/5/12 at 04:30 PM |
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Yup, exactly as Chillis and Melly-G have said.
Just don't do as I did the fisrt time. BMW 323, had the timing belt off and had slid two rockers to one
side to do the first cylinder, used 120psi which is way too much and it pushed the piston down with
catastrophic results to the valves and number 3
You only need about 30psi. But on an OHC with cams out I guess it wouldn't matter.
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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rusty nuts
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posted on 2/5/12 at 05:44 PM |
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Piece of cake with the right tool for compressing the spring without any need for rope or compressed air . The tool I use is a piece of steel about
18" long, about 1.5"wide and 1/4" thick with a bend about 2"diameter and a cutout on one end to clear the valve collets , just
set up on TDC and take off the rocker for the valve you are working on , hook the bent end under the cam and lever to compress the spring , remove
collets , couple of minutes for each seal .
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jollygreengiant
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posted on 2/5/12 at 05:46 PM |
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Adapt a plug is easy.
Take an old spark plug, remove electrode bar, remove ceramic and clean whats left.
Visit tyre fitters with plug remnants and find a suitable long tyre valve (denovo tyre fitment I think) and fit into plug from bottom.
Job Done.
Used mine once worked a treat, but have since found that if you work on cylinders where the pistons are up (in pairs) then after giving the vale caps
a gentle tap on the top (socket, long extension and a hammer) to break the seating of the collets, then with the pistons up and a suitable lever
arrangement that uses the camshaft as a fulcrum point, then with the piston at the top (working in pairs, a thin screw driver down the plug hole will
tell you) just undo cap and collets (make sure the oil drains to sump are blocked) remove same and oil seal (the valve will drop a little but NOT a
problem) fit new oil seal, lifting valve and pushing seal home, the valve will now stay in place enough to refit spring, cap and collets.
Trust me, with the piston at the top, the valve are going nowhere, they might drop 10mm but that is all.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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omega0684
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posted on 3/5/12 at 07:00 PM |
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i am going to give the air line/adapted spark plug a shot, thats for the idea's guys,
What pressure do i need to have the line at?
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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v8kid
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posted on 3/5/12 at 08:25 PM |
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I think he said 30
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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mark chandler
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posted on 3/5/12 at 09:15 PM |
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Have you stuck a socket over the spring cap and tapped with a hammer to loosen the collets?
If not then you will struggle, no reason to remove the head for this, even the cam as you can use this to lever off of.
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