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Author: Subject: VX Timing Belt Change
BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 10:41 AM Reply With Quote
VX Timing Belt Change

Currently changing timing belt, does anyone know what size spline bit is needed to get the 8 bolts holding the Crankshaft pulley off?

Does it come off easy or is an impact wrench required?

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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 10:58 AM Reply With Quote
are they torx head or something? I can't remember, I think ours are allen heads, but then they're probably not standard as we've got a dry sump system on the race car..
did you get the arp bolts on ok? did you check the bearings at all or leave all the journals intack and just swap the bolts over?

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 11:05 AM Reply With Quote
Ned, they have very fine internal teeth (12 of them), so like a torx bit but with more teeth.

They ARP bolts went on fine, no bearings spun, little bit of scoring but not too bad in my opinion.

I saw your thread about Sumps, I have the SBD and have used the windage tray and a new SBD pickup pipe as instructed by them.

It is all looking damn fine now, having been newly enamled, I have polished the rocker cover and belt cover back to the metal.

Once I have the Belt done it is going in!

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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 11:37 AM Reply With Quote
sounds good! any pictures?!! let us know how you get on with finding the right splined bit..

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:24 PM Reply With Quote
Ned, I have put some photos on at last, and a photo of the pulley and offending bolts!

Not sure if you are interested, but I have just paid ACE Motorsport (Four Marks) £35 to lighten my flywheel, good job as well.

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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:29 PM Reply With Quote
for £35, what weight is the lightened flywheel? we have one that weigh's only a coupld of kilo's on the race engine, not sure if it would cause problems having a similar one on a road car

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:37 PM Reply With Quote
5.2 KG, apparently if you go any further it doesn't make it very tractable for road use.

SBD want £165 + VAT for a 5.7KG unit, so for £35 can't be bad.

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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:42 PM Reply With Quote
It looks like their Fly-W1 which is £96 +VAT and is 5.1 KG
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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:44 PM Reply With Quote
tractable? I don't understand how that could be a problem. what weight is it standard?
did they just turn some materials off the surface or is it drilled or slotted?
did they balance it at the same time?

Ned





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:48 PM Reply With Quote
ie when you start letting the clutch out the engine doesn't just die.

The other problem of going much lighter apparently is you need a far higher spec clutch as you have to drive around like a bike!

It is put on a lathe and then balanced.

I think it has reduced in weight by about a 3rd

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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:51 PM Reply With Quote
our race flywheel is similar to sbd's fly-w5 as i thnk the limit on the regs is 2kg's min. we have a lighter one still that we can't use at the moment. it is smaller diameter to get the centripital/centrifugal forces down so the engine accelerates even quicker!

I've heard of the 'pot' type flywheel, how do you identify what type you have? i think i've got 2 flywheels kicking about somewhere...

thikning about it some mre what you say about the engine being easier to stall makes sense, we have a 5.5" ap ceramic clutch which is like an on-off switch, no slipage at all.

Ned.

[Edited on 6/9/04 by ned]





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:56 PM Reply With Quote
He does these superlight ones for £250, but they look like they will float away! Need a £300 clutch to make it work though!

As my brother who is building it with me hasn't learnt to drive yet, I didn't want to go too far!

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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 01:59 PM Reply With Quote
I am not sure how you identify what I have , so have put a photo on.

[Edited on 6/9/04 by BMF]

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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:11 PM Reply With Quote
so was the material taken from the engine side of the flywheel as opposed to the clutch side? just wondering about the cover plates springs etc etc.

also, how do the tops of you engine mounts rbber fit your engine mounts. i can't see any hole to put a spanner in to tighten a nut on the top thread?!

cheers,

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:14 PM Reply With Quote
Yes, from the engine side.

Captive nut. The two plates were supplied at my request by Luego, I cut the tube to the rquired angle and had them welded.

The rubbers are standard Luego parts.

[Edited on 6/9/04 by BMF]

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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:28 PM Reply With Quote
I guess i'd have problems doing it that way as the engine mount rubbers i have have a tab on each side which needs to locate on the engine mount plates. presumably with the captive nut you have to wind the rubber onto the mount first and tighten it by hand or with two locknuts on the other thread?

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:34 PM Reply With Quote
I suppose so. The ones I have are a rubber dohnut with a bolt top and bottom. I screw the top one into the mounting bracket by hand, drop the engine in and a Nyloc on the bottom bolt, job done.

I thought it would look neater this way as there are no bolts showing etc.

I think Luego rubbers are £20, but sure you can get them elsewhere.

The trianglular plates were made up on the basis of the holes in the block being a max distiance (outer edge to outer edge) of 100mm and an equalateral triangle.

They went straight on.

Don't know if this helps ned?

Cheers Ben

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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:37 PM Reply With Quote
Ben,

I've made the engine side triangles and have some round tube to suit. the rubbers i have are fiesta or something. what mk use i belive, they are rectangular and very chunky/heavy duty. i did wonder about going and buying some landrover style mounts, they're only a few quid and are round, the same/similar to the ones luego have sold you.

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:40 PM Reply With Quote
I have got mine so that the sump drops 1 inch below the bottom chassis rail, which in the end kept the engine perfectly horizontal relative to the chassis.
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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:48 PM Reply With Quote
yes, but your velocity has 2" taller bodywork, mine will have to be a bit lower i think or be rather a tight squeeze

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:49 PM Reply With Quote
Thought that might be the case, as it was rather close to my bonnet!

So I will know who is scrapping all the speed bumps in Guildford soon then!

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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:51 PM Reply With Quote


maybe i should dry sump it got the sump pan, just need a pump, front cover, oil tank etc etc infact i know where there is a complete system lying around...

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 02:56 PM Reply With Quote
Sounds like a good idea!!! Got any more!
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ned

posted on 6/9/04 at 03:01 PM Reply With Quote


sadly all this is at my mates workshop with the race car

Ned.





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BMF

posted on 6/9/04 at 03:09 PM Reply With Quote
One useful mate!
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