Nickctp
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| posted on 17/8/12 at 11:11 PM |
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X-flow compression update and help please!!!
Hi all,
further to my recent post here about low compression and a variant in compression between cylinders I decided to take the head off and look a little
deeper. Well the valve stems are worn (lots of play) and they could also do with re lapping but I think my main problem is the bores  there is a lot
of movement in the pistons (far to much) and the bores are very shiny (no lips though). The problem is they have already been rebored to .90 so
thinking the bores will need lining??
As I previously mentioned I just couldn't get the engine running right & couldn't tune the carbs etc, I think the above is the problem
- would you agree?
Basically I'm just after knowing what route to go down here. I have a good competition head, (needs valves sorting), fast cam , twin 40s - all
the right bits, but problems with the bottom end. Do I either - have the bottom end rebuilt and do the rest of work myself or will it be better to buy
a recon block & pistons etc.
I am fully aware that this will cost, but I am looking for the cheapest route to go down here as its not the right time to be throwing money about
right now.
I am fully capable of stripping and rebuilding an engine but when it comes down to it - I don't really know much and neither do I claim to so
all advice would be very much appreciated.
Look forward to your comments.
Nick
[Edited on 17/8/12 by Nickctp]
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maccmike
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| posted on 17/8/12 at 11:19 PM |
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As your capable of doing the work I would price up std bits, uprated bits and a new bottom end. Then decide whats best. Besides, theres no guarantee a
2nd bottom end will be a good'n.
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Westy1994
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 01:18 AM |
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If that were my engine, I would be looking at a decently priced secondhand block, or full engine if it were cheap enough. Then rebore as needed, but
NOT to max as your old block has been. Unless you are actually racing the car, I see no reason to max the bore size, but use the next bore available
to make the 'new' block useable.
Given the fact that you state there are no visible 'lips' at the top of the bores, would it then be feasible to simply re-ring the pistons
and rehone the bores?, this may well be the cheapest option?. Of course getting them relined as you say is yet another option as well, it really all
depends on cost as mentioned above, and what sort of engine you want to build back up.
I need to carry out a similar task over winter, but I am on standard size bores still, so I am lucky in that respect.
Price up what a re-ring would cost Vs liners, I would suspect the re-ring to be cheaper as you don't need new pistons ( unless yours are damaged
in some way?) and both will require a rehone anyway.
Just my 2p's worth.
Rich
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Nickp
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 07:03 AM |
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Too much movement on the pistons? How much, have you actually measured it (pistons and bores)? If there's on lip on the bores then they
aren't worn. If you're worried about them been shiny, give them a light hone and fit new rings. You had about 200psi on all cylinders so I
can't see there been a big issue with your bores / pistons. I'd sort the valve guides, re-lap and slap the head back on TBH 
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 07:07 AM |
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Ditch the xflo these days they are too expensive to fix, a Silver top will cost money to fit but will give more power than a modded xflo
and be a lot more reliable. The big advantage is you can buy a replacement for buttons.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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chillis
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 07:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Nickctp
Hi all,
further to my recent post here about low compression and a variant in compression between cylinders I decided to take the head off and look a little
deeper. Well the valve stems are worn (lots of play) and they could also do with re lapping but I think my main problem is the bores there is a lot
of movement in the pistons (far to much) and the bores are very shiny (no lips though). The problem is they have already been rebored to .90 so
thinking the bores will need lining??
As I previously mentioned I just couldn't get the engine running right & couldn't tune the carbs etc, I think the above is the problem
- would you agree?
Basically I'm just after knowing what route to go down here. I have a good competition head, (needs valves sorting), fast cam , twin 40s - all
the right bits, but problems with the bottom end. Do I either - have the bottom end rebuilt and do the rest of work myself or will it be better to buy
a recon block & pistons etc.
I am fully aware that this will cost, but I am looking for the cheapest route to go down here as its not the right time to be throwing money about
right now.
I am fully capable of stripping and rebuilding an engine but when it comes down to it - I don't really know much and neither do I claim to so
all advice would be very much appreciated.
Look forward to your comments.
Get the bore and pistons measured first to see how bad and to check the pistons are the right ones for the bores! Ive seen +60's in +90 bores
before. You can go slightly bigger (are yours 83.25 or 83.5mm?)
IIRC they bore to about 85mm for the liner but without checking the wall thickness you could be getting mighty thin.
Liners will only take you back to standard bore I believe though there might be some other liners that could be used to get you to the size you are
now - you'd need to speak with whoever was going to do the job to see what they can get/recommend.
Nick
[Edited on 17/8/12 by Nickctp]
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chillis
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 07:47 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Ditch the xflo these days they are too expensive to fix, a Silver top will cost money to fit but will give more power than a modded xflo
and be a lot more reliable. The big advantage is you can buy a replacement for buttons.
Ordinarily I'd agree with you though silvertops are all getting rather old now.
In this case the OP has a well sorted engine and all the bits that go with it - it just needs a rebuild by the sound of it or even just pistons the
right size!
Rebuilding a zetec will cost pretty much the same as an xflo.
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snakebelly
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 10:07 AM |
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if your block is beyond it i just checked on ebay and there are a few going for not silly money.
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snakebelly
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 10:09 AM |
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on second thoughts dont mess around, get this:
FORD RACING BRAND NEW X-FLOW 1600 ENGINE BLOCK!! | eBay
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Fatgadget
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 12:20 PM |
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My goodness!..Im lost for words!!
If only i had the foresight of accumulating all those old Ford engines being thrown away back in the 70s/80s..
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snakebelly
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| posted on 18/8/12 at 04:28 PM |
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Complete engine going on this thread:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=173602
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Nickctp
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| posted on 19/8/12 at 05:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snakebelly
on second thoughts dont mess around, get this:
FORD RACING BRAND NEW X-FLOW 1600 ENGINE BLOCK!! | eBay
A little more than I wanted to spend right now ;(
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Nickctp
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| posted on 19/8/12 at 05:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chillis
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Ditch the xflo these days they are too expensive to fix, a Silver top will cost money to fit but will give more power than a modded xflo
and be a lot more reliable. The big advantage is you can buy a replacement for buttons.
Ordinarily I'd agree with you though silvertops are all getting rather old now.
In this case the OP has a well sorted engine and all the bits that go with it - it just needs a rebuild by the sound of it or even just pistons the
right size!
Rebuilding a zetec will cost pretty much the same as an xflo.
Exactly my thoughts - still not sure what to do
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Nickctp
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| posted on 19/8/12 at 05:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
Too much movement on the pistons? How much, have you actually measured it (pistons and bores)? If there's on lip on the bores then they
aren't worn. If you're worried about them been shiny, give them a light hone and fit new rings. You had about 200psi on all cylinders so I
can't see there been a big issue with your bores / pistons. I'd sort the valve guides, re-lap and slap the head back on TBH
They wobble about in the bores like crazy - no 4 is the best if I squirt some wd down the bore it retains it for a long while - other 3 pistons just
drain away instantly with no 1 being the worst. Also think I have been lied to and they are not 1300 pistons still the original 1600!! (
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