Dooey99
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| posted on 26/1/13 at 11:53 PM |
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Zetec blacktop alternator mount
does anyone know if i can buy like and aluminium alternator kit to mount a crossflow alternator to my 1.8l blacktop zetec?
or someone that could machine me the bits needed?
i could fabricate one out of steel but wouldnt be as strong and wouldnt look as pretty.
Less weight more speed, more power more speed
If in doubt, give it a clout
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me!
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 08:54 AM |
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I don't think it aluminium, but it should do the job. £££ mind!
http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/content/zetec-alternator-kit-–-black-top-z022
I made a copy from 6mm steel sheet, had a spacer turned up by someone on here, and used a pulley off a transit connect of some description. Looks ok
now it's painted up, but you can't see most of it anyway! It's much stronger than an alloy one would be
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Dooey99
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 12:10 PM |
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Thanks mate I think I'll knock out ones like that I'm sure u can make it for less than £86 lol
Less weight more speed, more power more speed
If in doubt, give it a clout
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loggyboy
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 12:11 PM |
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What makes you think an aluminium mount would be stronger than a steel one?!
Mistral Motorsport
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Dooey99
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| posted on 29/1/13 at 06:18 PM |
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Sorry my mistake it would be stronger but I'm trying to do every little thing I can to lose weight and want it pretty, I'm very anal about
my engines lol
Less weight more speed, more power more speed
If in doubt, give it a clout
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 09:20 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dooey99
Sorry my mistake it would be stronger but I'm trying to do every little thing I can to lose weight and want it pretty, I'm very anal about
my engines lol
But in another thread you are wanting to fit a lightweight front crank pully which is widely acknowledged as being likely to damage the crank/oilpump.
If a ceap pressed/cast pully was adequte Ford would ahve saved money and fitted one.
And in another you are wanting to shorten a steel Blacktop sump a modification which gives inadequate oil capacity. Several people have suffered
engine failures after doing this even on the road, on a trackday its a total disaster.
And with regards to lightening a flywheel I have seen the results of one that exploded which wrecked the engine, gearbox and chassis luckily with no
damage to the driver, got a photo somewhere. Some years ago a flywheel exploded in a Mallock and the shrapnall cut through the drivers legs and
severed a femoral artery.
I like things to look right and I pride myself that the preparation of my cars is second to none but I also want them to be fit for purpose. Locost is
one thing but on every occasion its better (and cheaper) to do it right than have a breakdown or injure yourself.
Here is the proof.
 
[Edited on 30/1/13 by Paul Turner]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 09:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
And in another you are wanting to shorten a steel Blacktop sump a modification which gives inadequate oil capacity. Several people have suffered
engine failures after doing this even on the road, on a trackday its a total disaster.
Oil capacity is less relevant to engine failure than surge. I would expect most failures blamed on shortend sumps will be down to oil pickup issues
rater than having a little less oil.
If the failure could be pointed at oil temperature issue then thats another thing. But an oil cooler is an easy solve and will also add back in oil
volume.
My shortened sump was 0.8 litres less than the standard, so instead of a 4.5 litre capacity, it will have a 3.7 litre, which is still a good amount of
oil!
Mistral Motorsport
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 09:56 AM |
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[Edited on 30/1/13 by Paul Turner]
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me!
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 11:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
Here is the proof.
[Edited on 30/1/13 by Paul Turner]
Thats pretty tidy! Did you have a problem with alternator cooling out of interest? I was wondering what the two black ducts point at it were. Sorry
for the O/T.
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 12:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by me!
Thats pretty tidy! Did you have a problem with alternator cooling out of interest? I was wondering what the two black ducts point at it were. Sorry
for the O/T.
Thank for your comment. The ducts were there for 2 reasons. First was the alternator, it tended to run hot and the voltage dropped as a result. It was
Lucas recon (not a cheapo one) and was reliable enough but when hot it only ran at 13.7 volts compared to 14.1 when cold. the ducts helped a little
but not much.
The other reason was getting some cool air to rear filter. At the time the photo was take the car had a Ramair sausage filter on but prior to the it
was on K & N's. The rear filter was mostly inside the bonnet and the air it was getting was pretty hot compared to the front one, ran with a
therocouple to test it. With the pipes the temp in the rear fell considerably but with the Ramair on all the cylinders got the same temp. Trouble was
it fell apart after a couple of years, did not like being out in the airflow. Its now back on the K & N's (bought in 1997 and still like
new) but I have bought four 40mm throttle body extenders which puts the rear filter out in the airflow and the temps are perfect.
With regards the the alternator now have a Denso on the car and the voltages are fine. It dates from the late 80's a guy up our street gave it
to me, off a GTi Charade. Before I aquired this alternator I bought one off a well known supplier but they only lasted about 30 or 40 miles, had 3.
After a verbal struggle he refunded my money but when I checked with Denso before fitting the Charade one they confirmed that the ones I had been
buying were Chinese fakes. The give away was the badge. Denso have not used the "Nippon Denso" name since the mid 90's, does not fit
with the fact they supply parts for european cars as well as japanese ones. The ones I had were all badged Nippon Denso and the badges were not even
the right colour. Beware. With the genuine but old and dirty Denso the voltage is 14.4 cold and 14.2 hot.
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