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Author: Subject: Ideal engine for a first time build Haynes Roadster
novicebuilder

posted on 29/3/13 at 09:36 PM Reply With Quote
Ideal engine for a first time build Haynes Roadster

Thanks for all the advice (mostly negative) about my current donor engine (2.0 DOHC EFI) in a Haynes roadster. I have now seen one fitted (thanks John) and just found out about the MT 75 transmission tunnel modification!! I now realise that I will have to reduce the aluminium sump using a friendly TIG welder, also accept a high bonnet bulge. Having said all that; I have all the parts from the original car and can be sure they all work together. The original car had only done 55K and was roadworthy when I bought it. I am in a dilemma that I appreciate many of you have seen before. Do I cut my losses and fit an engine that fits better (into the standard book chassis), or do I alter the tranny tunnel, sump and bonnet and enjoy my first build.

My question to you all is: what would be the ideal currently available engine for a standard book Haynes roadster?

I am building the car with my teenage son and we are both learning as we go along, so the engine would need to be easy to fit, have plenty of available parts and be suitable for simple electrical connection (the electrics of the build seem most daunting to me). The aim is to get a roadworthy car, not win a grand prix!

Also do you think I could swap/part exchange my engine for a replacement?

Thanks

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austin man

posted on 29/3/13 at 09:41 PM Reply With Quote
I would go for a 2 litre Zetec





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Simon

posted on 29/3/13 at 09:44 PM Reply With Quote
Rover V8



ATB

Simon

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mookaloid

posted on 29/3/13 at 10:08 PM Reply With Quote
Sounds like the Zetec is the way forward. The DOHC is not a great engine.





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AdrianH

posted on 29/3/13 at 10:36 PM Reply With Quote
To be honest, stop worrying about what others think and build it for yourself and your lad.

One of the things that sometimes stops a builders and leads to part builds being sold is changes in direction part way through.

You said you are not after a grand prix car, if so then the engine will gives miles of smiles touring the lanes when we have good weather.

It will still be faster then you expect due to the lack of weight, it will be great fun and be a major achievement for anyone to build.

Virtually all engines will need the sump cutting down, so expect that of any engine, be it Zetec, CVH or DOHC.

The MT75 box can take more power if you wish to upgrade later.

I built mine with a 1.8 CVH engine, no tuning mods available, criticised for being a rough engine and only turning in at book values of 95 HP. It is still lots of fun, thoughts of changing the engine once built and IVA'd, but still in after 12,000 miles and now on 4th year of driving, simple engine to maintain.

If it is a pre 95 engine go for an age related number plate using as many donor parts as possible.

Just have fun building it


Adrian





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.

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mark chandler

posted on 29/3/13 at 11:12 PM Reply With Quote
The actual engine is the cheap bit, plan and cost the bits that wrap around to make a package.

So availability of exhaust, which side this will point if you want to upgrade later are more of a consideration.

Zetec or duratec, although you could consider a mx5 engine and box as a package?

For ease of emissions look for something pre 93

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FazerBob

posted on 29/3/13 at 11:13 PM Reply With Quote
absolutely right. My first kit had a 1.8 Pinto and it was brilliant. I later changed it for a 2.0 Pinto, then later still to a 2.0 Zetec - the fun value was exactly the same for all the engines. Just get out there and enjoy it.



quote:
Originally posted by AdrianH
To be honest, stop worrying about what others think and build it for yourself and your lad.

One of the things that sometimes stops a builders and leads to part builds being sold is changes in direction part way through.

You said you are not after a grand prix car, if so then the engine will gives miles of smiles touring the lanes when we have good weather.

It will still be faster then you expect due to the lack of weight, it will be great fun and be a major achievement for anyone to build.

Virtually all engines will need the sump cutting down, so expect that of any engine, be it Zetec, CVH or DOHC.

The MT75 box can take more power if you wish to upgrade later.

I built mine with a 1.8 CVH engine, no tuning mods available, criticised for being a rough engine and only turning in at book values of 95 HP. It is still lots of fun, thoughts of changing the engine once built and IVA'd, but still in after 12,000 miles and now on 4th year of driving, simple engine to maintain.

If it is a pre 95 engine go for an age related number plate using as many donor parts as possible.

Just have fun building it


Adrian






Bob

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big_wasa

posted on 30/3/13 at 07:19 AM Reply With Quote
I've had both and I feel the zetec is the better engine and can be fitted cheaply and easily.

I think the zetec is easier to work on and is the better engine for teaching you and your son about engines.
The gearbox can be used on either but your engine has bugger all value as zetec's can be had for next to nothing.

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novicebuilder

posted on 30/3/13 at 07:04 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Guys

Thanks for all the advice. It is really helpful. I think Adrian is right, we just need to get on with it and learn as we go. We have made plenty of mistakes already, but have learned an enormous amount from each of them. So the decision is made; we will proceed with our current donor car parts and engine and see if we can complete the project. Perhaps our next project will have the perfect set up and none of the mistakes we made this time?? Certainly next time we will loosen the rear hub nuts before removing the complete rear drive unit and subframe as a single part!
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Not Anumber

posted on 30/3/13 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
I'm having plenty of fun with a standard 2.0 pinto so far in my Indy which is as close as you can get to a Haynes. These are very light cars so it doesn't take a lot of bhp to out accelerate tin tops.






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