strikerguy
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| posted on 5/8/13 at 01:08 PM |
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Crossflow cooling plumbing
When my Striker came over from the UK, it had curious cooling plumbing. Crossflow Vulcan 1360 cc with BCF2 cam.
I rebuild the stuff to the next situation:
- radiator top is below cylinder head and thermostat housing
- radiator had a radiator cap but that's now welded shut
- thermostat housing with fan switch and overflow pipe (i think that's referred to as a Fiesta thermostat housing)
- inlet manifold heater connected to waterpump
- thermostat opens at 88 degrees
- fan switch opens at 92 degrees and closes at 84 degrees
- overflow pipe on thermostat housing is connected to lower pipe of non pressurized overflow bottle
Seems to work fine because even in the last very hot days over here, the engine temperature never exceeded 90 degrees.
When hot the level in the overflow bottle rises and it plummets when cooling down, so that seems ok as well.
But.... The fan is doing things i don't understand. Initially after warming up i can see (on the temperature gauge) the mechanical thermostat
opening and closing until engine temperature reaches around 90 degrees. After some traffic light stops and slow driving the fan kicks in for some
seconds and quits when normal temperature is reached again. Fine so far.
Until a certain moment the fan starts and never stops, even the fact that engine temperature drops below 80 degrees !
The only explanation i can come up with, is that the switch is running on an air bubble in the top of the thermostat housing. But that bubble was
supposed to be dumped in the overflow bottle....
Familiar ?
[Edited on 5/8/13 by strikerguy]
[Edited on 5/8/13 by strikerguy]
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 5/8/13 at 02:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by strikerguy
Until a certain moment the fan starts and never stops, even the fact that engine temperature drops below 80 degrees !
Familiar ?
Was going to say "yes" - until I read the sentence above! If not your trapped air bubble, could possibly some kind of hysteresis in the
water temp sensor.
Will deffo have to change mine, because the water temp reads far too high! Mismatch between gauge & sensor.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/8/13 at 02:34 PM |
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as the Meerkat says in a UK TV advert says "Simples".
The relationship between the thermostat starts to open temperature and the fan shut off temperature is wrong.
The fan switch shut off temperature should always be higher than the thermostat starts to open temperature
88c stat normally will keep the engine at 90c to91c and needs a fan switch than that cuts in at about 97c and off at 91c
If you change to an 84c thermostat then a 93c on/87c off fan switch will work.
I would also recommend you drill a single 2 to 2.5mm hole in the thermostat.
You might want also to consider changing to pressurised expansion tank with two connections.
[Edited on 5/8/13 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/8/13 at 02:48 PM |
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The thermostat is the sam e pattern as those used on most British cars of the 1960s and 1970s including the BL Mini and MG Midget and MGB
Rimmer Bros in UK stock an 82c thermostat that will fit. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GTS104
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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strikerguy
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| posted on 5/8/13 at 03:09 PM |
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The Vulcan guy advices a 74 degrees thermostat for this engine setup, what seems a little bit low to me.
I understand the relationship between opening and closing temperatures of switch and thermostat, but still don't understand why this phenomena
happens after a certain period....
I will try a lower temp thermostat !
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