yellowcab
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| posted on 2/12/13 at 08:19 PM |
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Replacing my diff from 3.62 to 3.14 - Couple of questions...
I currently have an 3.62 (not 100% on the ratio) LSD (Lobro), I've just bought a 3.14 open diff (Tripod)
I was going to remove the LSD from my 3.62 and fit it into my new 3.14 - which will then render my existing 3.62 useless and un-saleable, no biggie
My questions are...
1. What is the easiest way of doing this, do I remove the LSD from my 3.62 and fit it into the 3.14 casing? Is it that simple?
2. Will this also solve my Lobro/ Tripod conflict?
3. How much and which diff oil do you guys recommend to put in the new diff after its been built, and is there an overflow plug?
4. I'd like to spruce up the new item, possibly by having it dipped or shot blasted (despite never being seen) or would you advise against this?
if so why?
The alternative is buy a separate LSD and fit that to my 3.14, and leave my 3.62 untouched, so I could then sell it.
[Edited on 2/12/13 by yellowcab]
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sam919
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| posted on 2/12/13 at 08:38 PM |
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If you have the correct crown wheel and pinion set for the diff, then you would remove the 3.62, which is 3.62 turns of the pinion gear to 1 of the
crown wheel, remove the LSD from the crown cw, bolt it onto the new cw/ 3.14 and reinstall it with the correct backlash using a magnetic dial gauge.
If you Google it you'll get a process of how to achieve this, its basically the space needed between both gear when they intermesh too little
and it will rub, cause friction and wear too much and they won't mesh together properly and cause knocking that can chip and destroy the gears.
If they both the same diff 7" for example they will fit each, you can't take the settings of the old diff and use them on the new for
backlash as the tolerances will be different. You could send it all to road and race, or Steve perks and they can do it for you' but
that's cheating 
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mark chandler
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| posted on 2/12/13 at 09:20 PM |
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CWP and pinion out the 3.14 and drop into the LSD casing.
You need a long socket for the pinion, I purchased a standard 1/2" rattle gun socket from halfords for £6 cut the driven end off and weld
3" of scaffold tube between both halves and you have the tool you need cheaply.
The big castle nuts are a pain to remove, clean up really well then soak the threads in decent penetrating oil for a few days, I was then able to spin
off by laying a bar across them, also had to gently heat the casing to get them moving, if you can borrow or hire a tool do so, a C spanner will not
cut it. Do not try hammering they will just fall off!
Someone on here made a nice looking tool, he got a bit of 1/4" plate, marked out maybe 30-40% of the notches and cut out a nice multi-toothed
Spanner, looked easy enough to do in an hour.
If you want to have it blasted do this before you start work as the seals will keep the nasty stuff out.
I just purchased new seals off eBay and kept the old bearings, you can rejuvenate the crush washer, gently hammer the swollen bit on an anvil spike or
bit of old tube to widen it.
On the basis that it's already covered 100,000 miles I dropped in the pinion and nipped it up until all the backlash was removed, then dropped
in the Crown wheel out of mesh and twiddled up until the lash was removed, next marched the crown wheel into mesh with the pinion by turning the
castle nuts in evenly each side, keep winding in until the crown wheel and pinion start to bind then knock back a smidge until it spins evenly. You
want a close mesh as it will get abuse, when I raced landrovers we used to run them binding as the casings flexed and the teeth chattered and
shattered upon landing 
It's an easy job, make sure you tighten the crown wheel onto the carrier evenly so it lays nice and flat.
Made a massive difference to my car.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 2/12/13 by mark chandler]
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yellowcab
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| posted on 2/12/13 at 09:42 PM |
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Really appreciate both of your replies, thank you very much for the info.
So I currently have bolt on shafts, and the 3.14 use push in, will this be a problem?
Oil wise, is there a certain amount I need to put in?
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rdodger
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| posted on 2/12/13 at 09:59 PM |
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You are really just changing the crown and pinion gears so it will be the same as it is now.
1 litre of oil. I used comma diff oil as recommended on here. GL5 I think. It doesn't need anything special as the LSD bit is sealed.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 2/12/13 at 10:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by yellowcab
Really appreciate both of your replies, thank you very much for the info.
So I currently have bolt on shafts, and the 3.14 use push in, will this be a problem?
Oil wise, is there a certain amount I need to put in?
You will end up with bolt in shafts as today, I bunged in EP90 to the bottom of the filler hole.
Regards Mark
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sam919
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| posted on 3/12/13 at 12:06 AM |
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It might be worth putting a small qd in the bottom of the casing whilst its out , you can then drain it and fill it up easily, as once its in it can
be an effort to drain neatly. Route the breather hose somewhere high as well or even into a small catch tank. PS point the qd it the side so it
doesn't hit the track. Happy tinkering
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yellowcab
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| posted on 9/12/13 at 07:42 PM |
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So I now have my 3.14 diffs and took some pics of the integrals and all looks to be OK, one of them seems to turn a little easier and free than the
other, but I don't suppose thats much of an issue? both silent, and no crunching or grating
My current Lobro bolt ons
New 3.14s
How am I unbolting the prop shaft from my current on on my car? do I have to remove the interior panelling over the tunnel? or is it possible without
doing so?
[Edited on 9/12/13 by yellowcab]
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yellowcab
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| posted on 9/12/13 at 07:44 PM |
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Also, you'll see the the right hand diff in this video spins a little free'er... Is this something to do with the pre-load?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_pGPYRQ3Nc&feature=youtu.be
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 9/12/13 at 07:52 PM |
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Yeah you'll have to take the top of the transmission tunnel off to get to the bolts on the diff-prop.
I wouldn't worry about the difference in the diffs. It could be different oils or just one is a higher in mileage.
As long as you change the oil and check the teeth are ok then that's all you can do.
Ben
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yellowcab
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| posted on 29/12/13 at 06:10 PM |
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Decided to run this year with my current diff - and change to the 3.14 next winter
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