franky
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 11:06 AM |
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Building a new garage
I'm on the move and looking at a couple of places without a garage, however there's space for a decent one.
I'm thinking about managing the build myself and getting all materials/trakes in.
Rough plans
7.5x5.3m
Roofline to have about 2m internal hight at the apex
2.3m from floor to bottom of the trusses in the garage
room in roof trusses
2 8 foot doors at the front
1 single door to the left(workshop type area).
Double skin 100mm blocks(1000 blocks)
3 velux in the roof(550x900mm)
Front corners will be reclaimed brick, same for pillars between garage doors.
I'll do the wiring, rendering, dig out for foundations.
What sort of costs do we think i'm looking at? I think sub 15k?
Garage would be built on the garden, i'll need planning and building regs because of the internal floor space.
Any reasons why I shouldn't double skin? Anything I've missed? I'll either render or clad the block in a soft wood.
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theprisioner
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 12:15 PM |
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Too low for a 4 post!
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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froggy
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 01:09 PM |
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Mine is a bit bigger and I did it for 12k subbing out the brick work and roof filing but doing everything else myself . Allow for insulating the roof
between the rafters and do a traditional roof which gives much more storage area . I put a 2nd hand combi and a few rads and having the roof insulated
with kingspan boards between the rafters means it only needs to come on for an hour in winter to get it nice and warm and retains the heat pretty well
.
I have 5 velux in one side if my roof but they don't seen to make a huge difference tbh ,grey floor white walks and I've boarded the
trusses and whitewashed them to reflect as much light as possible
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
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franky
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 01:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by froggy
Mine is a bit bigger and I did it for 12k subbing out the brick work and roof filing but doing everything else myself . Allow for insulating the roof
between the rafters and do a traditional roof which gives much more storage area . I put a 2nd hand combi and a few rads and having the roof insulated
with kingspan boards between the rafters means it only needs to come on for an hour in winter to get it nice and warm and retains the heat pretty well
.
I have 5 velux in one side if my roof but they don't seen to make a huge difference tbh ,grey floor white walks and I've boarded the
trusses and whitewashed them to reflect as much light as possible
any pics/more details? Have you a breakdown of the costs? what size did you go for? I'm going for a traditonal roof.
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froggy
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 03:05 PM |
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I just did it as I went and after building my house I got the builder and roofer on a fixed price . Mine is 55' x 16 whatever that is in metric
, double skinned with 8" of polystyrene under the floor slab , I hired a power float when the floor was poured and bricked up the gable ends
once the scAffold went up . I put the membrane on the roof so the roofers just lathed and tiled .
The only unknown is what the building inspector says about the footings , luckily I did a normal strip but my house a few metres away had to go on a
full raft
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
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JoelP
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 03:45 PM |
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Just to clarify that truss roofs are the modern style with lots of small timbers and no space, which is why froggy suggested traditional (which
I'm assuming you meant anyway).
I'd definitely insulate it all, walls too, but if you are cladding the outside you can just do single skin, external insulation and cladding or
render over the top. Saves half the blocks and half the time.
You could even do the whole thing timber frame but building control might expect more calculations and make it uneconomical.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 05:15 PM |
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1 9' wide door in case you might want to put a trailer in the garage for some reason like loading the car the night before an event, or trailer
repairs.
My garage is 20'X30' heated floor with 40 gallon hot water tank and small circulation pump controlled by a thermostat, holds 10C when
outside temp -20C. Small 3/4" plastic pipes in the concrete floor 12"apart.
As said as much height as possible for future lift, mine has barn style roof which gives me 12'X 30' storage above, space for spare parts
(2.6 litre cologne Capri engine and gearbox, sons spare 948 Sprite engine and gearbox), 3 snowmobiles in summer and garden tractor and implements in
winter.
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franky
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 08:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
Just to clarify that truss roofs are the modern style with lots of small timbers and no space, which is why froggy suggested traditional (which
I'm assuming you meant anyway).
I'd definitely insulate it all, walls too, but if you are cladding the outside you can just do single skin, external insulation and cladding or
render over the top. Saves half the blocks and half the time.
You could even do the whole thing timber frame but building control might expect more calculations and make it uneconomical.
I put i'm going to use room in roof trusses which give a clear area along the middle.
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JoelP
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| posted on 9/3/14 at 10:38 PM |
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Furry muff, missed that bit!
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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