pekwah1
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| posted on 24/3/14 at 12:08 PM |
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Clutch pedal Throw
Hi Guys,
I have a blacktop zetec mounted to a 5 speed type 9.
Is there a way of shortening the throw of the clutch pedal?
I.e. so i don't have to push my pedal as far to fully disengage the clutch?
Car is a sylva striker with a top mounted pedal box if that makes any difference.
Regards,
Andy
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Mr C
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| posted on 24/3/14 at 12:28 PM |
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Is it hydraulic or cable??
If its hydraulic you can change the size of the master cylinder for a bigger one, this means you push more fluid for less travel operating the clutch
sooner. The trade off is the clutch pedal will become heavier. Its trial and error on the best size as it depends on the size of the slave cylinder, I
ended up with a .750 in my car though the pedal was a little heavy (compared to the daily driver anyhow)
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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adithorp
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| posted on 24/3/14 at 12:31 PM |
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If I understand correctly, you want less pedal movement?
You'd have to increase the distance between cable attachment and pivot and then fit a pedal stop to prevent over-throw. Depending on the exact
set up, how you achieve that will vary.
It'll also result in a heavier clutch feel and more aggresive clutch bite point.
If it's hydralic then life is simpler and just fit a bigger bore master cylinder.
[Edited on 24/3/14 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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pekwah1
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| posted on 24/3/14 at 12:43 PM |
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It is cable, i'm not posh enough for hydraulics yet....
So are we saying i could simply change the pivot point of the pedal?
I'm not massively concerned with less biting point or a heavier pedal, my existing one just feels like it has so much travel i'd rather
have a heavier more aggressive one.
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adithorp
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| posted on 24/3/14 at 01:14 PM |
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Do you have a lot of free play before the actual clutch movement or travel after the bite point? If so you could start with just a pedal stop.
If that doesn't work then yes, either moving the pivot or cable attachment is whats needed. However that usually involes either altering the
pedal mounts or cable achorage in the bulkhead.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 24/3/14 at 04:08 PM |
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Is your "top mounted" pedal box a specific, bought item or is it a modified one from a standard car? I ask because I have Sierra pedals
mounted to a built box and the pedal throw can be altered by buying different coloured (each colour equates to a specific size) quadrants for the top
end of the pedal.
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pekwah1
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| posted on 24/3/14 at 05:53 PM |
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The pedal box is the standard sylva item that forms part of the chassis.
The pedals look like they're from a car of some description.
I'll take some photos and post them up!
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avagolen
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| posted on 24/3/14 at 09:23 PM |
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Hi, I had the same problem with my Fury build.
I had the fisher pedal box and type 9 standard setup to zetec, but the clutch was definitely overthrowing.
I modified my pedal by shortening the lower section, below the pivot.
See photo of temporary modification before welding.
Made a huge difference.
 
clutch_pedals
The Answer for everything, but never the last word....
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