tims31
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 12:14 PM |
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Zetec Plumbing with Heater Matrix
I'm getting to the point of plumbing in my zetec and I have read loads of posts about how to do it but none seem to have a diagram on one with a
heater matrix.
Can someone tell me if the diagram attached is
1. Correct in the plumbing/routing and
2. Am I right in that the outlet from the matrix (purple) should go to the same line as the water pump outlet rather than joining at point A where it
comes out from the header tank
 
Description
Also, on the thermostat housing there are two electrical connectors, one on top and one on the nearside/exhaust side of the housing, I presume temp
sender to a gauge and one for the fan, which is which and how best to wire these up?
Thanks as always
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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HowardB
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 12:39 PM |
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electrical connections on thermostat housing
I believe that one is the temp sender for the instruments, and one the sender for the ecu,..
as for heater,. I have seen instructions to plumb from the back of the thermostat housing to the bypass pipe, the rational being that the heater
should warm up as the engine does, not wait for it to get to running temp and then get hot.
I have blanked mine off, and plan to remove it as some point.
hth 
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again  and goes zoom)
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 12:41 PM |
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You are about there.
The long purple heater pipe can be tee'd off the bypass pipe close to the stat housing. Saves a bit of pipe and looks neater. Do not connect it
at point A, that may well cause problems.
You will probably need a bleed off the top of the radiator in addition to the one off the stat housing. I tried without a radiator bleed for several
months but just kept getting air trapped in the radiator. Had to keep parking with the front of the car downhill. No problems since I fitted one.
The sensor on top of the stat housing is the ECU water temp sensor. Only needs connecting if you are running injection.
The sensor under the stat housing is for the gauge. Note that the Ford one is unlikely to work with aftermarket gauges.
Normally the fan switch is fitted in the radiator.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 04:36 PM |
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St170 fan switch is the same fitting as a polo rad at m22x1.5.
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tims31
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 05:13 PM |
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Thanks guys, a job for the weekend and I can get some parts from Stoneleigh
Hey Wasa,
Is the sender on the thermostat housing needed for the standard ECU that I'm using?
[Edited on 29/4/14 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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big_wasa
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 05:42 PM |
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yes 
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tims31
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 06:03 PM |
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Good job I checked with you then
So it should be more like this then
 
Description
Sorry, next question now, where is the best place to get a T-piece(well double t-piece really) to connect the outlet pipe from the water pump to the
rad with the two tappings off from the header tank and by-pass?
I see car builder solutions do a few that could be doubled up but any better options?
[Edited on 29/4/14 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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coozer
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 07:16 PM |
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Heater feed is the output on the back of the thermo housing, the return goes back into the bypass pipe.
This is a OEM bypass pipe, fat end on the left goes to the pump (bottom hose) and on the right, one goes to the bypass outlet on the front of the
thermo housing, the end one is the feed back in from the heater.
This design ensures the heater warms up quick as the thermostat doesnt stop the water circulating.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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coozer
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 07:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tims31
Good job I checked with you then
So it should be more like this then
Description
Sorry, next question now, where is the best place to get a T-piece(well double t-piece really) to connect the outlet pipe from the water pump to the
rad with the two tappings off from the header tank and by-pass?
I see car builder solutions do a few that could be doubled up but any better options?
[Edited on 29/4/14 by tims31]
That pics is the right way, just try and get the bypass and header tank connections on the bottom hose as far apart as you can.
I bought two T pieces from cbs and got a mate with a tig to weld them together, if you have room just join two together with a piece of hose. The
closer the header tank feed is the rad is better, as it is also better to have the bypass loop in as close as possible to the water pump. This stops
any surging in the header tank. I found out the hard way by plumbing them in together!
[Edited on 29/4/14 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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tims31
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 07:26 PM |
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Great thanks very much,
Guess i'll have a look at the CBS stand on monday
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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coozer
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 07:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tims31
Great thanks very much,
Guess i'll have a look at the CBS stand on monday
Worth a look as there is a 10% discount on offer
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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