I am trying to get my rover v8 to run correctly. Its got a weber 500 and megajolt. I have uploaded a standard Rover V8 ignition map to the megajolt.
The idle is just rough as anything. I have adjusted the idle screws on the weber but other than preventing it from petering out altogether
it's not made a great deal of difference. Any ideas?
I should probably add that I am a right newbie when it comes to engine building and tuning. I don't know if I should start with the carb or the
ignition.
quote:Originally posted by minitici
No idea - but is it firing in the correct order?
I assume it is in the correct order. I would have thought it would be running rougher than it is if the leads were out of order. On adding a few
revs it runs better.
quote:Originally posted by mcerd1
have you checked that TDC is where megajolt thinks it is with a timing strobe ?
[Edited on 14/7/2014 by mcerd1]
Nope mostly because I don't have a timing strobe. I checked that the TDC mark on the balancer was actually TDC and then placed my toothed cog
accordingly. I thought this would be enough. I can maybe borrow a timing light or buy one. Never used one before though.
All the headers are getting hot. It was running on just four cylinders until I chased down a wiring issue. I'll double check the cog.
I would dearly love to get you to map the ignition and jet the carb. At some point I will probably be knocking on your door for you to do this. At
this present moment in time however I need to get the car running well enough to be drivable and through the IVA. I have no trailer available to get
the car to you which just pushes the cost far beyond my budget.
quote:Originally posted by Irony
All the headers are getting hot. It was running on just four cylinders until I chased down a wiring issue. I'll double check the cog.
I would dearly love to get you to map the ignition and jet the carb. At some point I will probably be knocking on your door for you to do this. At
this present moment in time however I need to get the car running well enough to be drivable and through the IVA. I have no trailer available to get
the car to you which just pushes the cost far beyond my budget.
If its any help we can offer to collect as it is now (not running right), find the problem, map and jet, then return to you for £650.
Normally £2/mile using our 3.5T tilt trailer and landrover, but your 145miles from me so would be bit expensive!
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
quote:Originally posted by stevebubs
I would suggest playing with the timing - advance / reduce the timing at idle points and see what the impact is.
Worth a try, just set the whole map to 20deg and see what happens. The engine will idle fine at anything from 5 to 20deg, if its idles better it
points to an error in the trigger wheel.
At no load the timing in the map could be blanket changed to anything that makes it run better - not something i would do with the engine under load
but no harm can be done at idle. The worst that can happen is kick-back on the starter if the timing is over advanced or massively retarded.
With megajolt, as it uses an EDIS module, the actual MJ unit can be unplugged leaving just the EDIS in place - this will give a fixed timing of 10deg.
Any engine should idle like this, if not there is a trigger wheel problem and / or a fulling problem.
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
quote:Originally posted by stevebubs
I would suggest playing with the timing - advance / reduce the timing at idle points and see what the impact is.
So I could just get the engine idling but roughly and then use this option in the megajolt settings to alter the Advance/Retard and see where it gets
me
This is a image I got from the web and not a screenshot from mine.
Am I likely to damage the engine by letting it run like this?
quote:Originally posted by stevebubs
I would suggest playing with the timing - advance / reduce the timing at idle points and see what the impact is.
Worth a try, just set the whole map to 20deg and see what happens. The engine will idle fine at anything from 5 to 20deg, if its idles better it
points to an error in the trigger wheel.
At no load the timing in the map could be blanket changed to anything that makes it run better - not something i would do with the engine under load
but no harm can be done at idle. The worst that can happen is kick-back on the starter if the timing is over advanced or massively retarded.
With megajolt, as it uses an EDIS module, the actual MJ unit can be unplugged leaving just the EDIS in place - this will give a fixed timing of 10deg.
Any engine should idle like this, if not there is a trigger wheel problem and / or a fulling problem.
I have unplugged the megajolt unit and it ran slightly worse, but not by much I have to say. Looks like it might be a trigger wheel issue or a
fuelling problem then.
Am I likely to damage anything serious by playing around with these settings etc??????
No, you will not damage the engine AS LONG AS YOU DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR :-)
The trigger offset allows you to correct any MINOR error in the trigger wheel position, but its best to correct any error by moving the wheel or
sensor.
I would leave the offset at zero and just change the numbers in the map.
It seems to me (as you have unplugged the MJ) that the wheel is on wrong or you have a fuelling issue and from the video i can see your cranking at
6deg and running around 14 deg which should be fine, EDIS default is 10 which also is fine.
Are you sure the VR sensor wires are the correct way around? sometime it will run with them swapped but will give you a timing error.
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
quote:Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
No, you will not damage the engine AS LONG AS YOU DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR :-)
The trigger offset allows you to correct any MINOR error in the trigger wheel position, but its best to correct any error by moving the wheel or
sensor.
I would leave the offset at zero and just change the numbers in the map.
It seems to me (as you have unplugged the MJ) that the wheel is on wrong or you have a fuelling issue and from the video i can see your cranking at
6deg and running around 14 deg which should be fine, EDIS default is 10 which also is fine.
Are you sure the VR sensor wires are the correct way around? sometime it will run with them swapped but will give you a timing error.
Can't drive it! No propshaft.
The VR sensor wires are fine as I had them the wrong way round and it wouldn't start at all. I am going to go home tonight and recheck the
trigger wheel. Wouldn't surprise me if I have muffed it up somehow. At least I have a few things to check now.
From the vid. Watched on my phone I would look at the following.
If all headers are getting hot that's good.
If it's popping back through carb or popping in the exhaust it's likley to be tinning.
R
Controlling tickover on my v8 is done by putting a v in the timing map and setting that the engine is at tick over when throttle is at <5%
Rover v8s timing marks can be 6 degree out either way and some extreme examples can be 12 deg out.
So bear that in mind when trimming up.
Basic Checks first
are plugs over whet after lumpy idle ?
Are sample plugs from left / right bank same ?
Double check timing not 180 deg out
Double check plug leads
Are you getting good spark ( spare spark plug into a lead and earth onto rocker cover.
Can you check both ign packs by doing the spark plug test above ?
Finally (for now ) can you see fuel mist down both carb barrels ?
Will post back later when watched vid properly.
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
Photo Archive
Building: Fisher Fury 4.3 V8 with Speeduino
posted on 14/7/14 at 06:00 PM
Just to add my 2p :-
1) Listen to Dale, he is the Oracle
2) I could never see the timing marks whilst the pulley was on the engine, the water pump pulley blocked the view. I mounted my trigger wheel with it
on the bench. Dale then set it all up with whatever it was set as.
3) Assuming you've got two 4 pot coil packs, check that you haven't got two sides on one pack swapped over, if the four pairs are ABCD,
check it isn't ABDC (guess how I know)
4) I didn't mention Dale in the last answer, I'll refer you to point 1) for this one
Thanks for all the replies guys. I really appreciate it.
I went out into the garage last night and I think I have placed the trigger wheel 1 tooth out. I think the sensor was one tooth to close to the
missing tooth. I might even relocate the sensor as it is under the car and I am worried it would get damaged by debris etc. I also checked the Top
Dead Centre of the crank shaft timing marks and I think the mark is within 1-5 degrees correct. It's difficult to get a perfect reading without
a proper gauge. But that means that the cars timing could be a max of 15 degrees out.
Unfortunately I couldn't correct and test last night as I have a toddler and his bedtime is seven and the car wakes him up. To be honest it
wakes the street up.
quote:
Unfortunately I couldn't correct and test last night as I have a toddler and his bedtime is seven and the car wakes him up. To be honest it
wakes the street up.
Surely a nice V8 rumble would send him off to sleep!
I have now fabricated a new VR Sensor Bracket which is a lot stiffer and a lot better placed for viewing and protected from road debris etc. I think
the original bracket was 10 degrees out so I have done the best I can to make it correct. I have to say finding TDC without a proper gauge is very
difficult. I put a pencil down piston 1 spark plug hole and rotated the crank until I found TDC. I have to say its a bit rough. The Rover timing
marks seems to concur with my own estimate though. On starting the car ran better.
At this point I started to check the ignition lead layouts and I think I had them wrong. I switched the layout around and it ran smoother but there
was a bit of popping. I double checked the layout and switched two round again and now it runs a lot smoother than it did in the original video.
However I am not 100% sure I have the ignition leads correct. I have been over all the documentation on the autosport labs website and I think I
understand it. However I am struggling to implement the Autosport drawings onto my own system. I have Motorcraft Ignition coils off of a Ford KA.
The reason I chose the KA is because the ignition leads are quite long and fit the V8 quite nicely. However the single ignition coils are marked up
1,2,3,4. Each unit is labelled 1 and 2 as per the autosports labs website.
