SteveWalker
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| posted on 15/7/14 at 09:42 PM |
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Pinto camshafts
After years of never having the money and the time at the same moment, I have finally got my Robin Hood Series III insured, MOTd and taxed and the
kids really enjoyed a quick trip each out this evening.
However, it's sounding very tappity and getting worse, despite me adjusting and re-checking the clearances at least three times over the last
few weeks. My thoughts are that the camshaft and followers are on the way out. I can't check properly before weekend, but I'm pretty sure
that's what I'll find.
I can't afford to buy a decent cam at the moment and will try to pick up a cheap, standard replacement for now.
Wherever I look, I am finding conflicting information though. Is the cam from an injection head the same as that from a carb head or not? Some sites
say they are all the same, other say they differ. Is there a difference between the cams for different years? Some quote cams from 83 to 87 and from
87 to 93, others quote 84 to 86, some don't mention any years.
My block is a 1983 2.0, but the injection head that is on it is not original and could be any year. Is there an easy way to identify it or the
existing cam?
Thanks for any help.
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snapper
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| posted on 16/7/14 at 05:36 AM |
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Cams are the same
Aftermarket you can only use FR34 on an standard injected engine
injection head (doesn't matter that you run carbs) is the best standard head ( egg shaped inlet port at manifold face) inlet port short side
turn is smooth and worth 5 to 10 bhp alone.
If you try and find a standard cam you still need new followers and spraybar
Any power mods on a Pinto should start with injection head unless you have a ported big valve head lying around
You can find on eBay Reinz head gaskets for £15 these crush thinner than standard, Pinto's love compression this give 0.5 ratio increase for
diddly squat money
Cam choice depends on many factors, rev limit ( rods) compression ratio (more cam needs more compression)
FR30 & FR34 high lift standard duration
FR32 high lift more duration good fast road cam revs for England
You'll probably need to fit cam bearings and cam end plate
If there are numbers on the end of the cam it's probably aftermarket
Cam wear is down to blocked spraybar
[Edited on 16/7/14 by snapper]
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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mcerd1
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| posted on 16/7/14 at 08:06 AM |
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+ 1 for a new spray bar - its the most common cause of cam wear
most aftermarket cam kits come with one for this reason
http://www.burtonpower.com/camshaft-oil-spray-bar-sohc-pinto-ft1059.html
I think there are some slight differences between the EFI and carb'd cam profiles, there are even a few variations in the carb'd ones -
but none of these changes are really significant to how the engine performs 
in addition to the kent cams above piper and newmans cams are both worth a look - all get a good name, but all have slightly different cam
profiles:
the Kent FR32 used to be the standard fast road cam - it gives 11.56/11.22mm lift with 285°/280° duration on the inlet/exhaust respectively
they claim a power band of 2500-7000 rpm with ~16bhp gain (although that's going be massively dependant on what other mods are done)
some people swear by the more extreme rally spec cams like kents RL2 - its basically the same as the FR32 but with the durations increased to 312°
newmans PH2 'fast road' cam has less valve lift at only 9.61mm but has 284° durations, they quote the power band as 2000-6000 rpm
but there PH4 cam has lots of lift (12.03/11.95mm) and sorter duration (275°/272°) for more torque
and the PH4.5 cam increases the duration to 286° to give more power at the top end (3000-7250rpm)
the more extreme newmans cams use fancy carbide insert followers to deal with the extra load of such a lumpy cam
the piper 285 has 11.81mm lift with 270°/290° durations for with they quote a 2200-70000rpm power band and 22bhp
according to some engine builders and mostly backed up by the des hammill book the higher lifting / slightly shorter duration cams seemed to be the
best option to me - so it came down to the Newmans PH4 or 4.5 and piper 285
in the end I opted for the slightly cheaper piper 285 kit that came with new followers, springs, spray bar etc... and I guessed this might be a
little better for road use (i'll find out if I was right if I ever get any time in the garage again  )
so any one of those cams would transform your stock engine if you can find one with all the bits s/h, but most of these will only work well with twin
webbers/delotos or bike carb's...
if you just need a bog standard pinto cam then I can have a look and see what state the old ones I've got are in I you like...
[Edited on 16/7/2014 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 16/7/2014 by mcerd1]
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 16/7/14 at 10:24 PM |
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Thanks for that mcerd1, but I can get hold of one easily enough.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 16/7/14 at 11:15 PM |
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I ran a piper 285 cam in a Capri, bored out to 2.1 with big valves, slightly lumpy idle and loss of low end was a pain in a heavy car but you really
need some decent carbs and exhaust to get the best out of it.
I also ran a 2.0 litre with stock cam, 60 thou off the head and carefully followed vizards book on porting, this was nicer to drive and felt faster
with 7 degrees advance on the cam, twin choke carb and exhaust. On the rolling road it made 2bhp less than my mates 3.0litre Capri on the same day so
around 135bhp from memory.
The standard cam is actually pretty good!
[Edited on 16/7/14 by mark chandler]
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snapper
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| posted on 17/7/14 at 05:56 AM |
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In a light 7 a 285 cam is fine you really don't notice the idle peak power was at 5200rpm
The FR30&34 are essentially standard duration with more lift peak is lower around 4000rpm
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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