greed1
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| posted on 24/7/14 at 09:48 PM |
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4AGE Build
Good evening guys and gals,
Thought it was about time I used this site and members to the full potential instead of hiding in the back ground  .
Last month I bought a 1.6 red top 4age from a Toyota corolla, if all goes well I will be replacing my now tiring cross flow with this in the not to
distant future.
I'd like to break 200bhp or at least 180, which doesn't sound hard according to the websites and forums dedicated to the Toyota
lump.
This will be the first time I've stripped an engine past the head so I will be taking my time doing it step by step and start at the bottom up.
So crank and flywheel balance and lightening first! Ive done a bit of reading on L/W flywheel's but lack of experience and knowledge has left me
at a bit of a dead end. I've found anything from 2kg right to the standard 7kg flywheel, aluminium and chromoly???
My kit is mainly used for sprint races and the occasional blast round in this great weather, so I don't want it totally unusable on the road but
still fast enough to keep upwith the trailered cars.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, what are 7 style cars like to drive with lightened flywheels what weight have you used?
Photos to follow as I can't get them to upload from my phone yet.
Drive it stright sideways
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bi22le
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| posted on 25/7/14 at 11:08 AM |
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I have a 4age blacktop with a fernanza (sp?) Lightened flywheel and out is fine to drive in traffic. A lot easier than my old BEC.
I will be interested to see what spouses of information you tap into and where you get your parts from as I hope to be doing similar work in the next
few years.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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Jed
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| posted on 25/7/14 at 05:08 PM |
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I have a MG Midget with a bigport 4A-GE 16V with RM lightweight flywheel (with integrated 36/1 trigger wheel) and matching bell housing to mate to a
type 9. The 4A-GE 20V ITBs are mounted on one of those cheap & heavy Taiwan made steel inlet manifolds that can be found on ebay but I picked
mine s/h and much cheaper. The flywheel is 4.9Kg and I don't have any issues with pulling away at low revs in a 700Kg car and think you'd
be OK going lighter still.
I have no idea what power mine is putting out because I've only just built it but I'd be interested to see how you get on. I expect that
>180bhp is going to get expensive.
Jed
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 25/7/14 at 05:12 PM |
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Super light flywheels on a 4 cylinder engines can lead to rough idle as one of the functions of the flywheel is to keep the engine spinning at low
speed.
One other function is to assist with the take up of the clutch from idle to starting the vehicle rolling- light flywheels tend to cause more stalling
from start, not a problem in race setup but a problem in traffic.
For street use I would not go less than 2/3rds stock flywheel weight.
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greed1
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| posted on 25/7/14 at 06:00 PM |
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Hey is it the 'fidazan' (aluminium flywheel) you have bizzle? I almost ordered one the other day before I posted on here. But now
I've looked in to them a bit more and I won't be using one of those lots of people having issues with the ring gear coming loose and some
only after a year  .
I had thought that 2kg was going to be to wild for road use but had to mention it as looks amazing bet it gets a bit hot
I apologise now if the PIC is to big hard to change much from my phone
So somewhere between 4-5 kg will free up the revs and still be usable on the road although I don't think I've hit 1000 miles this year and
certainly not any traffic in those miles.
Think your right Jed I was just going to run it standard but now I've striped it and started looking for bits I can't stop myself  now
now planning to inject it when I get towards the end. Did you buy your flywheel direct from richard macer if so do you have his contact/website?
[Edited on 25/7/14 by greed1]
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Jed
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| posted on 25/7/14 at 08:56 PM |
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I don't have any contact details for Richard and couldn't find any valid details either. I picked up my bits mainly from PH or ebay.
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luke2152
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| posted on 25/7/14 at 09:09 PM |
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One thing to bear in mind is its not just the weight of the flywheel but the design (rotational inertia) - if most of the weight is on the outside it
may be light but behave more like a heavier one or vice veras
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bi22le
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| posted on 26/7/14 at 02:46 AM |
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It came with the car. I don't know what style it is. I have had the car for about 5 tears and have had no trouble. I don't know what it
weighs off of the top of many head but I do have the details at home.
Forgot to mention that the UK Driftworks forum it's a great source four 4age information and SH parts. I picked up a stump for 10quid. They are
3x that if you are lucky to find one
[Edited on 26/7/14 by bi22le]
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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greed1
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| posted on 4/8/14 at 08:47 PM |
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about time for an update i think
i have now striped the engine which took longer than i had planned due to one small pulley
 
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bloody thing held tight for four hours until i got the angry grinder out, at least a new one is only £18 from Toyota.
apart from the obvious above the engine looks to be in good condition only found one score mark on the big end and hardly anything on the crank of
course i dont know for certain until someone with the right tools looks over it.
 
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A couple of new shiny bits have arrived from TTV racing excellent service form these guys ordered/payed at 3pm and it arrived next day.
 
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the flywheel comes in at 3.4kg roughly half the weight of the original and the pulley 660g, 1 kg lighter than standard and more importantly has the
36/1 teeth. i know this is going to make hard going for the road but think it will be worth it once im used to it.
ive also done a bit of work to the combustion chamber in the head, following Lag Lag Lag's post here.
http://forum.twincam.org.au/topic/2936-diy-porting-your-16v-4age-head/
this is what i started with
 
Combustion chamber
and took it slow with the dremel
 
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only removed the sharp spots in the chamber to reduce the chance of pre ignition when the compression is upped. i am too chicken to touch the ports so
will leave this for a pro to do once i find one (any recommendations).
a set of cams turned up on the bay yesterday, newman's ph4 profile new with adjustable cam pulleys for £350 i couldnt turn it down.
few more things still on the list i need to get like pistons, valve springs and arp bolts. these can wait for a while now as i will be getting the
block and crank checked over first
edit does anyone now how to remove the centered text?? or is it just my laptop
[Edited on 5/8/14 by greed1]
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bi22le
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| posted on 4/8/14 at 08:59 PM |
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Keeps us up to date with the details and also the suppliers you use. Fensport is the main one I know of but they seem expensive.
Some parts I know that you can still get from Toyota but I dont know how far their parts lists span. I expect them to not do much for my import only
AE111.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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greed1
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| posted on 5/8/14 at 06:28 AM |
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I have only found two other suppliers but I haven't used either yet, torque developments international torque
developments international are the UK suppliers for Toda Racing Japan. they don't seem to carry stock of 4age bits but can get them In a
couple weeks.
Also mcnsport in Ireland who have both 16 and 20v listed on there
website.
From what I've been reading of Toyota if you have a part number they can get it for you, the crank pulley and oil filter I ordered came within a
week so must have been in the country already but they were very helpful over the phone as I couldn't give them a number plate and i only had
one part number which I wasn't sure was right.
Found my engine number yesterday or at least I think it was before the rust took hold of it I can just see a 3 on the end, does anyone know if I can
make my own up to tell the dvla about the engine change?
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greed1
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 08:17 PM |
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After reading this Thread I won't be getting ARP head studs which will free up
£150 for other goodies Still need them for the conrods and mains.
Is it generally a good idea to change oil and water pumps when doing a build to this extent.
Hopefully I can find someone on Friday who can clean engines so I can see what I am actually working with and without gloves 
More to come
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edthedrummer
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| posted on 6/8/14 at 10:01 PM |
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I'm going to be building a 20v blacktop shortly for a friend so I am paying careful attention to this thread.
It's usually common to replace the water pump on a rebuild, usually because they are fairly cheap and often driven by the belt, so a pain to
change once it's all built.
Quite often, oil pumps can be stripped down back to bare housings and rotors and then cleaned inspected and rebuilt.
If your unsure of anything during your build, feel free to u2u me and pick my brains. I'm a competition engine builder by trade so I may be able
to help.
Ed
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greed1
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| posted on 12/10/14 at 07:50 PM |
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Sorry for the slow update all,
Pistons arrived shortly after my last post
 
pistons
The block has been sent away for machining same with the head, although I did order a set of supertech valve springs and cam followers with under
bucket shims just to be safe and future proof the engine if I find I need more lift later on.
While I can't do anything on the engine at the moment I set about painting the rocker covers with wrinkle paint,strange stuff to work with but
didn't turn out to bad. I needed bit more paint on the sides as they didn't wrinkle as much as the top.
 
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Also decided to go for a long first gear in my type 9 so started to take it apart this weekend. I couldn't find a 36mm socket locally so 5 gear
is as far as I got. Does anyone have any experience with any of the long first gear kits and any recommend. Burton appear to have both 2.98/1 and
2.74/1 for the 2l type 9 but over £100 between them
 
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