r1_pete
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| posted on 21/10/14 at 06:57 PM |
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Engine temperature / thermostat / fan switch
I'm converting My E Type to EFI, one area I need to take care of is the the increased running temperature for efi, currently it runs at 72
degrees, it needs to run at 82 degrees.
I'm upgrading to an alloy rad, and will use an 82 degree stat,
but
What about the fan switch, CBS do several, on at 87 off at 82 would seem most appropriate, but is that correct? is there a method to determine the
temp range of the fan switch?
[Edited on 21/10/14 by r1_pete]
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Jenko
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| posted on 21/10/14 at 07:59 PM |
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Of interest, why does having EFI mean it needs to run at higher temp?.
One thought...most aftermarket ECU's have the ability to control the fan, and of course, using this you can set the switch on at whatever temp
you want. The ECU simply provides a ground signal to a relay wired into the fan at a predetermined temp measured byt he coolant temp sensor. May be
worth checking out.
MY BLOG - http://westfieldv8.blogspot.co.uk/
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 21/10/14 at 08:54 PM |
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I wouldn't be too quick to raise the engine temp on an XK engine, the cooling system can be suspect and prone to overheading.
EFI is less sensitive to engine temp than carbs (assuming you are running a dry manifold)
If you use megasquirt (I advise you do) then there are outputs that can be used to drive a fan relay.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 21/10/14 at 09:28 PM |
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82c is not hot it is the normal stat for 1960s cars.
The thermostat starts to open at at 82c and be fully open about 87c a fan switch that cuts in about 92c and back off about 86 should be fine.
An early Fiat Panda switch Intermotor 50230 has easy to use connections andbwould do the job it is however an m22 fitting.
If you want an M14 fitting then Intermotor 50041 or 50042 should work.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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r1_pete
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| posted on 22/10/14 at 06:56 AM |
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Thanks for the replies folks.
The S1 E Type runs 72 degrees and a 4psi cap, can't remember where I read it but it said efi needed a higher temp, maybe Des Hamill's efi
book.
I've a 40% upgraded modern alloy radiator, and twin 11" , again modern, fans.
The manifold is a standard XJ6 EFI, with the plenum cut off and runners into Triumph TBs, so is heated, the efi XJ6 runs 82 degrees too.
 
ITB Progress 1
Yes I'm using Megasquirt from Phil ExtraEFI, and at some point Baileyperformance you'll be getting it to map  So I'll look
into the squirt switching.
I'll take a look at those parts too BT.
Thanks Again.
[Edited on 22/10/14 by r1_pete]
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 22/10/14 at 08:43 AM |
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I'm very interested in mapping your car, we are involved with a local jag restorer at the moment - we have been asked to look at full engine
management with a view to gain power and comply with emission regs (probably fit CATs)
We are revamping the engine design, biggest change is custom piston and ring package.
The E type and mk2 uses a different version of the XK, the XJ6 is already a better motor but for some reason the classic jag folks don't like
the idea of dropping in the later engine.
We have made some SUs with imbedded fuel injectors, just to try and keep the engine looking stock.
Will be interesting to see how your TB setup works.
Regarding cooling, the E type cooling system has a minor problem, the bypass pipe is too big, it continues to flow with the stat open, bypassing a
proportion if the water intended for the rad.
Simple solution to install a restrictor in the pipe.
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 22/10/14 at 08:53 AM |
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Fan control - if your not using the megasquirt FIDLE output, it can be configured in the software for fan control.
Just add relay, the FIDLE grounds the relay coil in the same way as the pump relay works.
If you need any help let me know :-) happy to help.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 22/10/14 at 09:03 AM |
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To be honest I want things to look modified when you open the bonnet, I'm not a purist and the car is far from stock anyway.
That cooling bypass is a problem, the thermostat should have a disc on the base which closes off the bypass, but things seem so poorly matched, the
disc doesn't close the port off properly, when its apart I will restrict it.
Jaguar changed the XK engine in 1968, the added webs to the block down the exhaust side, late 4.2s have 5 core plugs, early have 3 is the easy way to
tell. They also added additional waterways at the back of the head/block, which need plugging if you use a late head on an early block. They also
changed the head studs, which can make getting the head off a nightmare due to corrosion.
I'm not using a fiddle valve, so using that and setting the on off temps in the software would solve that problem.
Cheers.
Pete.
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