pewe
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posted on 23/10/14 at 11:27 AM |
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Clutch/gearbox change made easier....
Having bust a gut (literally) doing a clutch change on the hairdressers earlier this year and after only c.5k miles it needs doing again
Top tip to help make it easier which applies to lots of makes whether taking it out from underneath or through the engine bay - beg, borrow or steal
two lower bell-housing bolts.
Cut the heads off and slot the bolts to take a screwdriver.
Remove existing lower bolts and replace with the slotted ones.
These now become slider pins which help remove the box but more importantly line it up when putting it back in.
Can't wait to try it - not!
Cheers, Pewe10
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theconrodkid
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posted on 23/10/14 at 12:05 PM |
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your a man, you can do it !
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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pewe
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posted on 23/10/14 at 12:10 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by theconrodkid
your a man, you can do it !
Still trying to decide on "out from underneath" or "through the engine bay".
Inclined to try the later otherwise I'll never know which is quickest/less difficult.
Besides which it'll give me a chance to put a heat shield under the s/c and replace the brake lines at the back of the engine bay.
Watch this space....
Cheers, Pewe10
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The Black Flash
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posted on 27/10/14 at 09:10 PM |
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Good idea, that. I did something similar on mine, but used extra long bolts rather than take the heads right off. Top tip OP
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perksy
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posted on 27/10/14 at 10:26 PM |
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Just curious, Why has it only lasted 5k miles ?
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pewe
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posted on 28/10/14 at 11:01 AM |
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Good question, Perksy. I was a bit miffed myself as you can imagine.
Having now extracted the box from underneath without previous difficulties (decided a big sheet of chequer plate on the smooth side plus the crawler
would be helpful rather than scrabbling around on the gravel - sooo much easier). It's also twice as fast doing a job second time around of
course.
The good news is it turns out the clutch isn't shagged (prob about half worn).
The bad news is I had to take it all apart to find out.
The good news is it'll give me the opportunity to fit the larger 1.8 clutch.
That then leaves the question as to why the clutch started to slip.
Basically I think this was down to slow or unsatisfactory clutch engagement.
There are two main contenders:-
1) As I was extracting one of the bell-housing bolts right at the top buried underneath the scuttle I've noticed the clutch fluid pipe (solid)
is kinked against the union. This may have happened when I replaced the box last time. MX5's are notoriously tight around that area so it takes
a lot of persuasion to re-align the box.
This may have resulted in slow pressure release from the slave cylinder back to the master cylinder causing the clutch to engage slower than
normal.
2) In my wisdom I used some high temp brake grease on the thrust bearing slider tube - the one surrounding the first motion shaft and maybe even on
the first motion shaft splines whilst I was at it.
According to Comp Clutches tech guy there's no need to lube the release bearing slider as it's all white metal nowadays.
Also you need to clean the first motion shaft splines with a toothbrush and WD40, the inside of the bell-housing needs to be squeaky clean using meths
or brake cleaner, the pivots on the release arm should have a dab of high temp grease (not copaslip) and finally the arm pivots behind the release
bearing a drop of light oil - you live and learn!
BTW I can't speak more highly of UK Competition Clutches' service and advice so far.
They may not be the cheapest in the market but they really know their stuff and I'm now waiting for one of their Stage 4 set-ups to arrive from
the States. Ordered yesterday should be here Thursday!
Any suggestions comments gratefully received.
Well you did ask.
Cheers, Pewe10
PS anyone want to buy an MX5 1.6 Exedy Stage 1 organic clutch, pressure plate and ultra-light flywheel - part worn but still serviceable - only done
5k miles.......
[Edited on 28/10/14 by pewe]
[Edited on 28/10/14 by pewe]
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coozer
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posted on 28/10/14 at 06:36 PM |
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Some pics would be nice. I also think a 2 post lift and a transmission jack would come in handy
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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