AndyW
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posted on 27/11/14 at 09:57 AM |
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what would happen if......
Morning all,
I have started to take my car to bits, firstly to have body work wrapped, but main point is to sort out the clutch problem.
So here is the question, what would be the outcome if I fitted a CCT133 clutch release bearing, when I should have fitted a CCT303?
Basically I have a clutch problem. I have looked back at my U2U's when I was fitting and I was told to fit CCT133.
I'm running standard 2.0 blacktop with standard flywheel and clutch, mated to a type 9.
After some more Goodling and much trawling of forums and internet, I now seem to think I need a CCT303 release bearing and NOT the CT133.
So am I right? Do I indeed have the wrong bearing and would this be a reason for clutch problems?
Any advice/opinions more than welcome.
Thanks
Andy
[Edited on 27/11/14 by AndyW]
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loggyboy
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posted on 27/11/14 at 10:11 AM |
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CT133 is for used with blacktop running early zetec flywheel, CVH starter and mondeo 1.8 clutch.
Mistral Motorsport
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adithorp
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posted on 27/11/14 at 10:24 AM |
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A description of the problem might help.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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AndyW
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posted on 27/11/14 at 10:52 AM |
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OK the problem is, reverse always went in with a grind, and pulling away in first produces a hard juddering. Found a web site which states CCT303 for
standard flywheel and standard 2.0 clutch, and CT133 with 1.8 flywheel.
Also when stationary, first is hard to select, have to push hard as if the clutch not helping, it also wants to crawl whilst in first with foot on the
clutch.
Found some info here... http://www.zetec-cat.co.uk/ which seems to suggest what I said above? Extract from web site:The standard 2.0 litre Zetec
flywheel is quite heavy (approx 9.9kg excluding clutch - 10.5kg including clutch) therefore I would recommend sourcing a flywheel from a 1.8 or 1.6
Zetec as they are just over 1kg lighter (approx 8.8kg including clutch). If opting for a 2.0 Zetec flywheel, you will require a standard 2.0 Zetec
clutch and a clutch release bearing from a 1971-88 Ford Transit 2.4/2.5 diesel (Quinton Hazell part CCT303).
The 1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec flywheel can also be used and, as stated above, these are around 1kg lighter than the one from the 2.0 litre engine. This
will require a standard Mondeo 1.6/1.8 Zetec clutch plate and cover, along with a clutch release bearing from a 1972-1984 Ford Capri 1.6 OHC or
1970-1982 Ford Cortina 1.6 OHC (Quinton Hazell part CCT133)
My set up is standard 2.0 zetec blacktop flywheel, standard 2.0 clutch and type 9 box.
[Edited on 27/11/14 by AndyW]
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loggyboy
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posted on 27/11/14 at 11:07 AM |
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Quite obvious its wrong then. Swap for the correct one and see if it solves.
Mistral Motorsport
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Paul Turner
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posted on 27/11/14 at 11:11 AM |
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I would suggest you ring Pete at Raceline. He will know exactly what release bearing you need with a blacktop and type 9 with a standard flywheel and
clutch.
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britishtrident
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posted on 27/11/14 at 12:05 PM |
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Sounds like clutch pedal leverage issue.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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19sac65
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posted on 27/11/14 at 12:15 PM |
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I used the shallower bearing without any issues - mainly because of the inflated price of the 133
It needed a little more adjustment to take up slack of a shorter bearing but works perfectly
Before ripping everything out have you adjusted the cable to see if that helps - is the clutch arm touching the bell housing when the pedals
depressed
Its inlikely that a bearing will cause judder either
If you cant adjust it out then the clutch could be dragging or the spiggot bearing is dry and seizing up
Both apparent once its out
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DW100
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posted on 27/11/14 at 12:23 PM |
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Has it been like this since you installed it or has it got worse? Could be something like the clutch lining failing from enthusiastic starts.
The Sierra suffered from gear bulking from new. There were things like the longer bearing and using synthetic gear oil to try and improve things.
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Paul Turner
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posted on 27/11/14 at 12:58 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by DW100
The Sierra suffered from gear bulking from new. There were things like the longer bearing and using synthetic gear oil to try and improve things.
The longer bearing has only been needed when the type 9 was mated with an engine/flywheel/clutch it was never intended to mate with. It was not a Ford
modification
Ford brought out their own gear oil to improve things, was red and has not been sold since the 90's. The only oil you should use in a type 9 is
75w 90 GL4 semisynthetic. A fully synth tend to stop the syncros working correctly and a GL5 will wreck the syncros. I have been using Comma in mine
for 15 years, not the best change in the world, not as good as the type E but perfectly acceptable providing you don't try and rush it.
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DW100
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posted on 27/11/14 at 01:24 PM |
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So remind me why did Ford change the spec of the oil? and go to the trouble of producing an oil just for this box?
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AndyW
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posted on 27/11/14 at 01:41 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by DW100
Has it been like this since you installed it or has it got worse? Could be something like the clutch lining failing from enthusiastic starts.
The Sierra suffered from gear bulking from new. There were things like the longer bearing and using synthetic gear oil to try and improve things.
Has got worse, car has done 3000 miles this year. I don't many "enthusiastic" starts, if I did then I would expect an issue. I think
I need to separate engine from box and have a look in there.
I will have to work out for SURE which release bearing is needed, may be time to look for the CCT303 just in case. Will also inspect the clutch
lining, although this was a brand new unit.
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DW100
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posted on 27/11/14 at 01:50 PM |
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Judder is almost always to do with the clutch lining. Whether due to breaking up or contamination.
I have taken clutches out the only have about a 1/4 of the lining left on they still drove but juddered.
Where is the clutch arm in the hole in the bell housing and can you get the cable adjustment right. If you think that the clutch arm pivots on one
side and the bearing is half way along the main difference of using a different bearing will be the position of the arm at the other end. If your arm
is about in the centre of the hole then the length of the bearing is right.
[Edited on 27/11/14 by DW100]
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