psylsph
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 posted on 16/12/04 at 12:30 PM |
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Gaskets
Does anyone use gasket sealant when replacing gaskets. The reason for my question is I replaced the sump gasket on my 1300 x-flow and it weaps oil
around the seal although it's at tight as I dare go without dethreading the bolt.
If anyone does recommendations please.
Stuart
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britishtrident
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| posted on 16/12/04 at 12:59 PM |
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Personally I wouldn't have used RTV for this joint on a kent engine. --- but
The way to use RTV instant gasket is to allow it to almost completely cure before tightening up the bolts. A lot of engines these days are
designed to be assembled almost completely without gaskets -- Rover K is a good example -- but these tend to uses special expensive sealers and have
joint surfaces designed for the purpose.
When using standard RTV sealer the sealer must be semi cured before the surfaces are offered up to each other, the joint can then be bolted up
loosely and after a suitable curing period tighted up.
In the 70s the Hillman Avenger engine had a problem with oil leakage from the cylinder head gasket the offical cure before revised gaskets became
available was --- when fitting a new gasket form a loop of sealer around the oil way on the top surface of te gasket then leave it overnight to cure
before fitting the cylinder head.
[Edited on 16/12/04 by britishtrident]
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 16/12/04 at 02:09 PM |
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Doesn't matter how good you are or how meticulous Xlows will leak somewhere.
I've built dozens, they are just not close enough tolerance to effect decent seals.
The crank seals always seem to leak anyway.
Using a sealant as well as the gasket will help but betcha it will still leak somewhere else.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 16/12/04 at 05:31 PM |
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The big mistake is often exactly what you say!! If you tighten a steel sump too much, it distorts and leaks. Just clean all the bolts up with
thinners, clean all the sump bolt holes with thinners, meticulously clean the block and sump mounting faces (check the sump is flat on a flat surface)
and then lightly grease the new cork gasket, and fit the sump with gasket on. Just nip the bolts up, as gently as you dare, and loctite each bolt so
they don't rely on being tight to stay done up! (as a judge of how tight to do tham as my torque wrench doesn't go low enough, I just use
a 1/4" drive stubby ratchet (about 4.5 inches long) and a "flick of the wrist" to nip them once they are seated. The loctite will
hold them)
I used to have loads of sump leak problems on various cars, but since doing this type of tightening procedure, no leaks!!!!!
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psylsph
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| posted on 20/12/04 at 12:06 PM |
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Thanks for all the advice chaps, just have to find time to do the work now before the MOT is due in Feb.
Stuart
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