Jeffers_S13
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 posted on 21/12/04 at 10:48 AM |
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Leaky sump
Having spent hours knocking myself up a cheeked sump I have the inevitable tiny hair fracture leaks.
Real pain in the a$$.
My welding isnt the best in the world and welding 1.2mm sheet edge on is very difficult. In some areas it looks ace, other areas it looks very pants.
See my archive, its now pretty much finished compared to the ones in the archive but I havent took pics yet.
After much grinding it looks passable, is there any way of plugging all the leaks without going around one by one trying to splurge more weld on ?
Can it be dipped in something thick to kind of coat the outside or inside, then I could just swill it around a bit ? Im sure there must be something
on the market like this available or not ?!? Im sure Ive seen it on something kind of rubbery plastic texture.
Cheers
James
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Jeffers_S13
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| posted on 21/12/04 at 10:58 AM |
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How about this stuff ?
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8232
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 21/12/04 at 11:07 AM |
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Have you considered running some braze over the joint? That's what I have done in the past.
De-grease and clean as much as you possibly can, then use a well-fluxed brazing rod to make a nice fillet over the leaky welds. You will need to use
oxy-acetylene (or oxy-propane) as an ordinary gas torch won't be man enough (unless you want to get the whole sump red-hot - not a good idea!).
If you haven't got a gas torch, just about every back-street garage will, and I doubt whether they'll charge you very much. As a guide, a
mate did my old sump in about 20 minutes, using just 2 or 3 brazing rods.
A fiddly job, but no great struggle for a skilled gas operative... the tedious boring bit that would cost serious money in a garage is the cleaning
and de-greasing, and your time is free! 
cheers,
David
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 21/12/04 at 04:50 PM |
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i used some stuff called quick steel,repaired my grounded out sump about 1 1/2 years ago and isnt leaking,get it from decent motor factors or your
friendly AA man
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/12/04 at 05:02 PM |
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I think i would be wary about using some of that liquid fuel tank repair stuff in a sump. It would have to be sqeaky clean first etc.
Some time ago i had a BMW325i Sport that had a cast sump. It had took a knock on the corner and holed it. I dropped the oil out, cleaned it up until
it was the cleanest thing araound for miles, repaired it with some of the 2 part e-metal stuff and it fixed it a treat. The e-metal wasnt cheap but i
did opt for some of the high quality trade stuff that isnt normally available in Halfords etc (i went to a specialist trade automotive / engineering
supplies place). Definitely worth a try if weldng / brazing skills are in question.
Regards,
Darren.
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James
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| posted on 21/12/04 at 05:03 PM |
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James,
I had the same problem when trying to do a sump for The Conrod. He'd covered it in some filthy rubbery crap to seal it and it buggered up the
welding good and proper. It had so many hairlines I took it into college and brazed it all round. Seemed ok with thinners in it but the ungrateful
bugger tells me it still leaked! 
So I did my my one a little differently:
Firstly I made it (hammered it!) a bit squarer to make cutting out the new bit easier.
I then marked out a sheet of 1.2mm (maybe 1.0) to the same shape. I then cut this out but 5mm oversize all round.
I then bent upwards all the oversize.
This meant I effectively had a 'biscuit tin lid' the shape of the bottom of the sump.
Don't then fit it 'over' the bottom of the sump like you would a biscuit tin lid. Instead, invert the lid and fit it inside the
sump.
You will then have the two lips (of the sump and the lid) running parallel all round the bottom of the sump.
I then gas welded them together- being a fillet weld it's very easy to get a decent weld. And using gas I could get a very neat weld.
You could of course use MIG to weld the two lip together- it'll just be slightly harder.
Hope that helps and made sense!
James
[Edited on 21/12/04 by James]
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