FuryRebuild
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 09:46 AM |
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Duratec 3D printed engine blanking plates
 
Description
So, I've about finished the build on my Duratec - I just need the cam timings sorted.
I'm then going to need to store the engine for a while, and I don't want it filled with crud - it's got a lot of love spent on it
(cams, valves, pocketed pistons, steel rods, lightened, balanced, dry-sump, etc.) and I would hate for a bit of grit to shorten it's life.
So, I printed the above blanks. THey're a good fit, and I'll be backing them with 2mm adhesive rubber before I bolt them down.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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mcerd1
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 10:31 AM |
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very fancy 
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 11:02 AM |
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To be honest, it's about 30 mins in the CAD, and about an hour to print for the first one. If I have to do any more, it's just printing
time only.
The 3D printer (Velleman Vertex) has been a a journey, but I'm getting really reliable prints from it now. A lot of my issues were down to not
putting loktite everywhere. It' works really well now.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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Furyous
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| posted on 26/8/16 at 02:20 AM |
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Why?
Because you can!  Love it.
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nick205
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| posted on 26/8/16 at 07:43 AM |
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At work we design and tool for injection moulding in plastic. We invested in a 3D printer last year and have seen great benefit. No the output is
not as good as injection moulded plastic, but the freedom to try things first saves time and money before moving to expensive tooling and production
of parts.
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 26/8/16 at 08:56 AM |
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Prototyping is the main reason why I bought mine - I made a buck for a CF/Aramid fuel tank, and it took a while, weighed lots and wasn't
actually a good enough design to take parts from the mould- I had built some stupid returns in there and think at one point it was going to pinch.
Now, I can design the tank in CAD, print it in modules and then if I've got something wrong, just rework one module. It only needs to be good
enough to take one mould from. Saying that, getting the right side-wall quality matters for moulding. Either that, or some sanding and high-build
primer 
It's not a cosmetic part, and won't be seen by anyone, so I'm ok with it not having a seamless mirror finish.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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Ugg10
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| posted on 26/8/16 at 09:11 AM |
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Nice job, rapid prototyping has come a long way since I was using it in 1995! Then it was uv cured resin which was pretty nasty stuff.
Here's a bit of inspiration for your next project http://www.divergent3d.com/ , 3D metal printed parts with carbon fibre connectors and a
plastic printed body.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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nick205
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| posted on 30/8/16 at 07:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ugg10
Nice job, rapid prototyping has come a long way since I was using it in 1995! Then it was uv cured resin which was pretty nasty stuff.
Here's a bit of inspiration for your next project http://www.divergent3d.com/ , 3D metal printed parts with carbon fibre connectors and a
plastic printed body.
Reminds me of some of our early 3D prototypes. They cost ££££, but looked good until I shattered them and had to sweep the bits up
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 30/8/16 at 07:45 AM |
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The printer in its current spec cost about £600, and pla is £22 per kg. the parts I made are cheap and they don't shatter
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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lsdweb
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| posted on 30/8/16 at 10:19 AM |
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Nice!
I've been tempted to get a 3D printer but keep putting it off!
Wyn
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