ch1ef
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 07:43 PM |
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Cant get my Zetec running - specialist near Bristol
Short story: I have run out of skills at getting this engine running well, it ran well 6 years ago and has not been used since until last year when I
tried to get it all working again. I have checked everything, but I think its best to give it to a specialist to diagnose the problem and most likely
tune it. I live in Bristol, so where is best to go, I have a trailer so don't mind travelling.
Long Story:
Tiger Super 6
2.0 Blacktop Zetec, tweeked internals, Cams, ITB's, Megasquirt 1 V3 etc
A working car, rolling roaded at 209hp, but was crashed and I bought it from the owner after they bought it back from the insurance company.
So I believe it all work, as it was being driven when it was crashed!
I have been fixing the chassis and other parts for about 3 years, and then the last year I have been in spare time trying to get the engine running
well;
It starts and idles
Spark seems fine
I checked timing
injectors fire and pattern is good
Fuel regulator working fine (tried it higher and lower and doesn't improve)
all wires to ECU seem to be fine,
Air temp sensor works fine, but is calibrated in MS wrongly, but I guess is relevant to temp, so probably fine as I adjusted to read correctly and it
didn't solve the running.
TPS works fine
ECU looks to have no birn marks on the board
All wiring I have checked and seems to be fine
So, I have exhausted my knowledge. What is best option now, can anyone recommend someone who can help me?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 07:46 PM |
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Bailey Performance
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jossey
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 07:56 PM |
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As above take a trip up to Bailey. Best decision I ever made
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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spaximus
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 07:58 PM |
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What I would do is get hold of a test unit that Megasquirt do just to make sure the ECU is working fully with no faults. If it checks out have a word
with Interpro at Thornbury and talk to them
I have had nothing but good service from them on four different cars, one with Carbs two with MBE and one with DTA ecu's. I am pretty sure he
will still do Megasquirt but has found in the past that many times they have had a fault that then needs work to put right.
I do not know of anyone else in Bristol that I would recommend
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theduck
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 07:59 PM |
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Is the map the same as was on the car when it was running before? You say it wont run but it starts and idles, so whats actually wrong?
Baileys are very well respected for Megasquirt tuning as has been mentioned, but my understanding is they dont like doing fault finding when you are
booked for mapping.
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ch1ef
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 08:07 PM |
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Sorry, the car runs, and rev's etc, but as soon as any load is put on the car it will miss fire, spitting flames from the exhaust or the
ITB's. It seems to run very lean and then very rich, although the new wideband I bought I am suspecting might be faulty
yes same map as before
[Edited on 18/12/17 by ch1ef]
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theduck
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 08:20 PM |
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Ok, so that kinda rules out the tune, I'd be making sure that the TPS and crank sensor are working correctly
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ch1ef
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 08:34 PM |
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The TPS works fine, or at least it shows fine in MegaTune, and does rev in neutral fine
I will have an investigation into the crank sensor as it was the only thing I have not done I think, but I didn't thing they would fail often,
but yes I should try it!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 08:39 PM |
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Have you checked the cam timing ?
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ch1ef
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 08:42 PM |
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Yes I have, the inlet cam was slightly off, so I reset it back to neutral (it was tight on the belt, no slipped teeth) , but its was a tiny bit and
didn't seem to make a difference
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ch1ef
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 08:45 PM |
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Also, thinking about it, the rev counter works fine and when running it with the laptop, monitoring, the revs show correct too, so I guess that is
taken from the crank position sensor? Although one thing is the sensor only has one wire wired to it, but I dont think the other is missing, its just
not wired up and I assume its an earth for it?
EDIT, looking at it the wiring diagram shows 2 wires, ill look into that, thank you!
[Edited on 18/12/17 by ch1ef]
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 09:15 PM |
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quote:
it ran well 6 years ago and has not been used since until last year when I tried to get it all working again.
is the fuel 6 years old?
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ch1ef
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 09:25 PM |
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Nope, new liquids all around. The welder sparks took care of the last of the fuel int he car 
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theduck
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 10:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ch1ef
The TPS works fine, or at least it shows fine in MegaTune, and does rev in neutral fine
I will have an investigation into the crank sensor as it was the only thing I have not done I think, but I didn't thing they would fail often,
but yes I should try it!
Firstthings first. Bin off megatune and download tunerstudio.
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ch1ef
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 10:12 PM |
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Sorry, I am on TunerStudio, I went back to 2001 for some reason!
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macc man
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 10:52 PM |
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Is it possible you damaged the ECU when you were welding the chassis. I always isolate sensitive electrics before any welding.
Some say it does not matter but I am not so sure.
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ch1ef
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 11:09 PM |
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I dont think the battery was ever connected, and so it would have only been the earth connected, which shouldn't matter, but yes it is a chance
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theduck
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| posted on 18/12/17 at 11:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ch1ef
The TPS works fine, or at least it shows fine in MegaTune, and does rev in neutral fine
I will have an investigation into the crank sensor as it was the only thing I have not done I think, but I didn't thing they would fail often,
but yes I should try it!
I missed this, if it is a standard zetec sensor, yes it should have 2 wires and that will definitely be an issue.
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ttalps2000
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| posted on 19/12/17 at 08:26 AM |
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speak to Slark Racing, they are by the airport in Bristol. Used him twice now and is very knowledgeable and will tune most of the aftermarket
ECU's and any engine, not just mini's!
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kingster996
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| posted on 19/12/17 at 09:35 AM |
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Mine had the same symptoms.
Turned out that I’d been a muppet and put fuel reg on the wrong side of the fuel rail. So fuel was getting through but as soon as pressure was
required it wasn’t there!
I’d always tinkered with carbs on bikes so this fuel injection malarkey was all new :-)
[Edited on 19/12/17 by kingster996]
I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure
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ch1ef
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| posted on 19/12/17 at 06:54 PM |
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The wiring to the crankangle sensor is all good, it did have two wires (shielded pair so looked like 1)!
The sensor I could not get a reading from my multimeter on it (its pickup rate is a bit slow), so have ordered a new one in some hope! But the rev
counter works fine so I would assume it reads from this sensor, but I will try anything at this point!!
The fuel reg I have changed, to check that, and even tested the standard one and all seems fine as if I raise or lower the fuel pressure it runs
worse!
Is there a certain signal that is needed to turn on the fuel pump relay in megasquirt? As I did have wire a switch to this to make it work, but this
wasn't needed when I started it years ago...
[Edited on 19/12/17 by ch1ef]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 21/12/17 at 01:45 PM |
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The ecu would normally control the fuel pump via a relay. How is your pump wired ?
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ch1ef
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| posted on 21/12/17 at 02:09 PM |
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Yes, the car runs a pump, via a relay, that is switched by the purple wire on the ECU (when I got the car in its crash damaged state) and drove it on
the trailer just fine like this. But when getting it running this year, the relay did not come on, so I ran a direct power from the batter to switch
the relay on. The ECU purple wire I believe should show 5v when ignition is on, but shows about 0.5v and then when the car is running it shows even
less than this again I think. Which is where i was thinking either the ECU has been damaged, or the ECU needs an input from something else before
putting power to the sump relay, or at least that was an idea I was thinking in hope to solve it!!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 21/12/17 at 05:00 PM |
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The ecu nearly always switches an earth. The purple wire is an earth.
If you wanted to run the pump with out the ecu control just earth the purple wire.
[Edited on 21/12/17 by big_wasa]
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ch1ef
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| posted on 1/1/18 at 10:19 PM |
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I have had a bit of time to look further into this. I have checked the Wideband I have and it is working fine, so....The car is running lean,
massively. It shows over 19:1 on idle and apart from when blipping the throttle (tiny flick down to 13:1) is seems to not go move any richer than 18:1
when driving, and only normal figures I can make it make is holding the car static at medium rev's it will flick from 14-18:1
So I have;
Bypassed the whole fuel system and run a different one directly to the fuel rail, new pump, filter and lines, and no change.
Turned up the fuel pressure from the ~30psi the standard FPR is running and the car back fires/splutters and at 40+PSI stalls
Turned down the fuel pressure and it soon stalls
I have taken the injectors out of the ITB's and fired from a 9v battery and they all have a good pattern, clear jets etc
And that to me shows everything is working fine, and if its lean it must mean that the ECU is causing the issue, as nothing else would cause it to run
lean? Its just confusing that it did work fine, and it still actually starts "OK", but it is super lean. I would think an ECU would
normally fail completely.
Does anyone have any suggestions or any advice to help me learn?
Thank you all for the help so far also 
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