the_big_1
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 03:10 PM |
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Engine Help!
Hi Guys,
So started my Zetc silver top for the first time today.
Started up firstime and oil pressure around the 5 bar mark.
Got to about 96 degrees, fan cut in, idling about 850 rpm.
After a few mins, the idling dropped and it was almost stalling.
Now there is a knocking noise top end and it's poor idling. Revs up OK. What is the issue??
Cheers,
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Slater
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 04:09 PM |
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Have you checked the oil level on the dip stick after it's been started up and turned off again? Could be the oil level has dropped in the sump
due to filling the filter and oilways etc if it's a first time start.
It might need topping up again.
But if the oil pressure is still showing 5 bar then it must be picking up the oil ok...... maybe some blockage in the oil system???
Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.
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the_big_1
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 04:13 PM |
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Yeah re checked. Could a doggy tappet do it? Using this oil
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Running-In-Oil-Breaking-In-Oil-SAE-30-5L-5-Litres-/121821319832?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
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jacko
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 04:19 PM |
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Yep no oil in the tappers no valve movement
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the_big_1
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 04:19 PM |
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What would cause it, faulty tappet??
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macc man
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 05:26 PM |
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I ran my silvertop on a cheap flushing oil for first start up and was very noisy. Put the correct oil in & quiet as a mouse.
[Edited on 14/5/21 by macc man]
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the_big_1
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 05:30 PM |
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How long did you run it on the run in oil? If that's the issue, and have to bed tge piston rings in, what oil should I use??
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 06:38 PM |
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Ford 5/30 , the engine is designed to use it! Incorrect spec oil will cause running problems
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the_big_1
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 06:43 PM |
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Hi ya,
Yep agree but what about running in, keep being told need special oil to run in the piston rings, but yet, when you buy a new car back in 1997,
didn't have to have special oil when you buy the Mondeo??
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mcerd1
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 09:51 PM |
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everything I've read says the zetec engines are pretty sensitive to the wrong oils - and my blacktop did run pretty rough when I had to top it
up with some 10w-40 one time
I'm fairly sure the silvertop oil spec will be the same as my old blacktop (all the petro lfords at that age used the same oil - someone should
be able to confirm that though) which called for fords own 'formula E' 5W-30 (or any 5W-30 that meets ford spec WSS-M2C913-B)
but 'formula E' was really just castrol Magnatec 5w-30 A1 in a ford bottle anyway but sometimes the ford one was actually cheaper 
any of these should do:
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-698-ford-wss-m2c913-b-engine-oil.aspx
(also a quick google found several threads on other sites that thought the same as you - but found out zetec's don't like anything but
5w-30  )
[Edited on 14/5/2021 by mcerd1]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 15/5/21 at 06:23 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by the_big_1
Hi ya,
Yep agree but what about running in, keep being told need special oil to run in the piston rings, but yet, when you buy a new car back in 1997,
didn't have to have special oil when you buy the Mondeo??
You have found out the hard way what happens with a Zetec using incorrect spec oil !
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snapper
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| posted on 15/5/21 at 07:59 AM |
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The definitive answer to breaking in an engine by the very grumpy but hugely knowledgable Dave Baker…
PUMA RACE ENGINES - RUNNING IN A NEW ENGINE
Probably one of the most argued about topics in engine theory you'll ever come across. Everyone has their own opinion ranging from the
'give it death from the start' to treat it with kid gloves for thousands of miles before using it hard. In fact running in an engine is
not a single process. The various internal components take different times to reach full efficiency and require different approaches to make sure they
bed in properly.
The first item to consider is the oil used. In years gone by you could buy running in oil which was basically very cheap oil with low friction
reducing characteristics. When engines were hand carved out of solid blocks of cast iron by workmen in flat caps using hand files and paid a shilling
a month this might have been a good idea. Nowadays any half decent engine machining should be of a high enough quality that comparatively few high
spots actually need to be worn off the various mating components. Using a fully synthetic oil from the start is generally considered to be a bad idea
because it needs some metal to metal contact to bed things in but component loadings are so high on modern high output engines that a very cheap oil
is a false economy. My advice is to use a medium to high quality non synthetic oil and the best oil filter you can buy. The higher the engine output
the better the running in oil you should use. Turbo engines generate very high temperatures in the turbocharger and the last thing you want is
something that will bake into carbon the first time you start the engine up.
Next thing to consider is running in the camshaft. This will mainly be applicable to pushrod engines or those using overhead cams and rockers. OHC or
DOHC engines with flat faced buckets under the cam lobes are much less prone to cam wear problems. 15 minutes at 2500 rpm with the car on the driveway
is the way to run cams in. The main thing is never let them idle for the first few minutes. All this is considered in more detail in the article on
running in cams.
Now you're ready to take the car out on the road and bed the piston rings in. To do this requires several brief applications of full throttle in
a high gear to generate high cylinder pressures and force the rings against the bore walls. Put the car into 4th or 5th at 1500 to 2000 rpm and apply
full throttle for about 10 seconds. Coast along for 30 seconds to dissipate any heat generated and repeat. Do this ten times. It should take about 10
minutes and maybe 5 miles if you don't have too many other cars up your chuff trying to get past.
By now you've already worn off more than 90% of the high spots on the various bits that contact each other. However friction levels inside the
engine are still fairly high compared to what they'll eventually settle down to. The next stage is to gradually build up throttle usage and rpm
limits. This can take place much faster than many people realise. Drive for 50 to 100 miles with gradually increasing throttle usage and rpm. By the
end of this time you should be using full throttle and high rpm for brief periods provided fueling and ignition settings are already optimised. In
fact on the road it will be hard to hurt the engine because you'll have to back off for a corner, speed camera or plod car long before you melt
the engine. On the track, or maybe on a motorway you might be able to use the engine hard enough to hurt it in the first few miles.
Listen to the engine. Does it feel tight and not want to rev or does it feel free? Hopefully it should sound quite happy by now.
99% of the high spots are now worn off after 100 miles and it's time to change the oil and filter again. Use a high quality non synthetic oil.
You can leave this in for either another 1000 miles or until your normal oil change interval. At that point swap to your long term oil which might be
a fully synthetic if the engine and your pocket warrants it. The engine should be happy to take pretty much whatever you can throw at it after 100
miles if it's been built right. What you might want to consider is that by the time you've pottered about with your new engine for 3 hours
(that's probably at least 100 miles) at say an average of only 3000 rpm it's already done over half a million revolutions! Yes I did say
half a million. 3 hours x 60 = 180 minutes x 3000 revs per minute = 540,000. How many times do you think one component with a miniscule high spot has
to operate against another component before the high spot gets worn down?
If the engine has been modified it might require alterations to the fueling or ignition timing. Don't use it too hard yet if there's a
possibility these might be way out. Get it to a rolling road and have it set up properly.
Over the next 1000 or more miles the friction levels inside the engine will continue to fall as the bores glaze up. The harder you use the engine the
faster this will happen. Drive like your granny and it might take 5000 miles before the engine is fully loose. It won't blow up because
it's not fully loose if you use it hard but the power will continue to increase as the friction levels drop. Also the combustion chambers carbon
up which raises the compression ratio slightly and improves thermal efficiency as the carbon acts as an insulator. You might see another 2% or 3%
power once the engine is really loose compared to the first run on the dyno after the initial break in period.
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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the_big_1
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| posted on 15/5/21 at 08:45 AM |
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Hi Guys,
What oil is the best to use that's mentioned as none synthetic oil that's right for a Zetec Silver Top?
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the_big_1
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| posted on 15/5/21 at 08:59 AM |
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How's this oil?
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/triple-qx-semi-syn-5w-30-ford-5ltr-521776021?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4v2EBhCtARIsACan3nxYdh77scYNr8NX9Mees6FFlzXbNV62GogcXUv_d3Ud
EgeRjCLsJScaAke2EALw_wcB
Says Ford, Semi Synthetic and its 5-30W
Or this for next day delivery?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002XUQTDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_BEXSMTFH8AX0R0KRB0D9
Or even this just for running in periord?
https://www.halfords.com/search?q=5-30w&start=24&sz=24&isLoadMore=true
[Edited on 15/5/21 by the_big_1]
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the_big_1
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| posted on 15/5/21 at 09:28 AM |
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Being advised to take all the tappets out, soak them in oil turning them every hour. Is this needed as it's new gaskets etc or would the correct
oil and spinning over with no plugs in be enough?
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the_big_1
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| posted on 15/5/21 at 11:44 AM |
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Hi,
Think it's head gasket or head wrapped. Was all new gaskets.
Dropped the oil and its milky coloured
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