ttalps2000
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| posted on 29/12/21 at 01:51 PM |
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Zetec Crank Sprocket Removal
Hi All
Having big issues getting the crank sprocket off on a zetec silvertop (sprocket that drives the cam belt)
In theroy these usually just slide off, but its having none of it! Have heated it up, dosed it in WD40, hit it to try and break the seal, all to no
avail. Lever bars behind it are doing nothing either.
Anyone got any suggestions? No room to get a pulley removal tool in as no space behind to get the arms in. Bit stuck on this one now and been at it
for hours trying to free it!
Thanks
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nick205
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| posted on 29/12/21 at 06:22 PM |
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Not done one so can't advise specifically.
Maybe call Burton Power (Ford specialists) for advice if no answers come up on here.
My local Ford main dealer proved helpful when I rebuilt a Pinto for my MK Indy some years back as well.
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perksy
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| posted on 29/12/21 at 09:52 PM |
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Forget WD40 for things like this, try soaking it in Plusgaz and leaving overnight
Surprised the sprocket won't shift, the bolts can be a different matter 
Just curious though why do you want to remove the sprocket ?
[Edited on 29/12/21 by perksy]
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obfripper
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| posted on 29/12/21 at 10:32 PM |
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That's a tad tricky, there should be a very slight rotational movement of pulley on crank due to the clearance of the woodruff key. With the
crank locked you should be able to use this movement to wriggle the pulley until it breaks free of the corrosion.
The more difficult thing will be doing this without damaging the crank pulley, i would be tempted to 3d print a hex to 20 tooth htd adaptor, and then
use a large socket with a low powered impact tool, flipping the direction every few seconds, the vibration should help to get things moving.
In lieu of that option, a leather strap wrapped arount the teeth and a set of water pump pliers would do a similar job but take patience/perseverance
to get moving without doing further damage.
I have done similar on several engines, it seems to happen often on sigma zetecs and renault f series engines, both are not keyed (so the pulley will
turn once freed) and the latter has 2 threaded holes which allow you to use a harmonic puller or slide hammer to loosen the rust.
When you do get the pulley off, the corrosion will look like barely anything, just clean it with some scotchbrite and you should be good to go.
Dave
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ttalps2000
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| posted on 30/12/21 at 09:27 AM |
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i need to remove the pulley to change the oil seal behind it
I have tried moving it back and forth to free it, again to no avail. I finally managed to get it to move about 3mm with some brute force, so hoping i
can now get a puller behind it to move it, if not it will have to be cut off. The pulley is damaged now anyway, so nothing to loose
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wowblaauw
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| posted on 30/12/21 at 04:13 PM |
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Might not be applicable to this case but my BT gave the same when changing the oil seal and in the end a 3 leg puller I think got it off.
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, chocolate in one hand, wine in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming...
Damn, What a ride!!"
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will121
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| posted on 31/12/21 at 06:01 PM |
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Had same problem and had to end up cutting mine off after hours of trying, but if you have moved it (if only 3mm)at least should now be heading in
right direction
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ttalps2000
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| posted on 31/12/21 at 08:02 PM |
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i ended up having to cut it and split it today, its now off! You can see where it was corroded to the crank and holding it
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will121
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| posted on 31/12/21 at 08:44 PM |
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Now just need a replacement pully and washer, I was lucky with a 2nd engine
[Edited on 31/12/21 by will121]
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ttalps2000
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| posted on 31/12/21 at 09:21 PM |
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got a new pulley coming from Ford. Hopefully its the later one with the washer machined in as they no longer sell the washer
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