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Author: Subject: Beaded or non beaded radiator hose joiners?
John Bonnett

posted on 19/10/22 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote
Beaded or non beaded radiator hose joiners?

I just wondered what your opinions are? I don't have access to a machine to bead tube and although one can buy lengths of aluminium tube with beaded ends they are not necessarily the right length for the application. My worry is that if the tube isn't beaded the hose could come off when under pressure.

I have seen a Mole grip modified to press an indentation into a tube and here's the question. Would one indentation or the opposite really an upwards indentation be sufficient to retain the hose? I would have thought it would.

Opinions please.

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Slater

posted on 19/10/22 at 06:48 PM Reply With Quote
I modified some mole grips with ball bearing on one jaw and a nut on other jaw, then clamped it around the circumference quite a few times to make a bead, seemed to work OK and my hoses have not popped off in 15,000 miles.

Had to squeeze very hard and the ali pipes are quite thin wall though, actually started life as an original external bag type hoover extension section. very Locost indeed.





Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.

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big_wasa

posted on 19/10/22 at 06:55 PM Reply With Quote
With the skills you have you can cobble one together in no time.





[Edited on 19/10/22 by big_wasa]

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Sanzomat

posted on 19/10/22 at 07:38 PM Reply With Quote
The builder of my Locost drilled a couple of holes in the ali tube and put pop rivets through. It does give a small impediment to flow through the joiner but does also create a bump on the outside that seems to be doing the job of preventing the hoses slipping off. Not sure if this is a good idea or not but it seems to be working.
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Mike Wood

posted on 19/10/22 at 08:52 PM Reply With Quote
John

Might be worth contacting Think Automotive to see if they can make up a beaded tube to the correct length for you: https://www.thinkauto.com/

Have you checked out the Aeroflow tools in 3/8”, 1/2” and 5/16” sizes for approx £30: https://www.b-gdirect.com/hose-and-fitting-tools (or the Earls version, but not sure on price: https://www.earls.co.uk/earls/accessories/tools/beadingtools.html ) as this seems more affordable than the lovely looking wheeled beading machines such as: https://www.thinkauto.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=beading%20tool&PN=Pipe%2DBeading%2DTool%2Ehtml#aPBT1 or https://www.motamec.com/motamec-water-hose-tube-pipe-bumping-beading-tool-for-16mm-and-larger-hoses-bead.html or https://www.serckmotorsport.co.uk/product/aeroflow-af98-2017-pipe-beading-tool-large-bore/ or https://www.t7design.co.uk/t7design-aluminium-tube-swaging-beading-beader-tool-bb9-0e7-e29.html Or one used by aircraft mechanics: https://www.lasaero.com/products/article/Z02SN9NKL


Bet you could make a suitable tool!

Cheers
Mike

[Edited on 19/10/22 by Mike Wood]

[Edited on 19/10/22 by Mike Wood]

[Edited on 19/10/22 by Mike Wood]

[Edited on 19/10/22 by Mike Wood]

[Edited on 19/10/22 by Mike Wood]

[Edited on 19/10/22 by Mike Wood]

[Edited on 19/10/22 by Mike Wood]

[Edited on 19/10/22 by Mike Wood]

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ianhurley20

posted on 19/10/22 at 09:13 PM Reply With Quote
Hi John - I modified a pair of pipe grips (pliers) with an exhaust clamp and a creative bit of weld. It worked perfectly yo make a bead in radiator tube, don't have aphoto at the moment but if you find the idea interesting I'll take one and post it. I am soon to use it again with my latest car project using MX5 Mk 2 1.6 engine and Henry vacumn tubes for the pipe work






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Schrodinger

posted on 20/10/22 at 07:06 AM Reply With Quote
I was lucky enough to be given a beading tool similar to the one Big Wasa illustrated, however I have passed it on to another member on here.
They may see this and offer it on.





Keith
Aviemore

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BenB

posted on 20/10/22 at 07:07 AM Reply With Quote
I would be tempted to get some thin Ali bar, make a Hoop and then braze it in place using one of those Ali "welding" kits. Or just jb weld. Nice fillet on the tube end side, less on the inner aspect (to create a more abrupt transition to further reduce slippage risk).
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JimSpencer

posted on 20/10/22 at 07:24 AM Reply With Quote
Hi

Oyster pliers are what's normally used (BES flog them I think..) they insert a dimple into the ally, and you just continue round the tube and get the bead you need.
HTH

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40inches

posted on 20/10/22 at 08:39 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
Hi

Oyster pliers are what's normally used (BES flog them I think..) they insert a dimple into the ally, and you just continue round the tube and get the bead you need.
HTH

This is what I used, a bit fiddly but I have beaded dozens of tubes 8mm to 38mm.


https://www.bes.co.uk/standard-pliers-for-oyster-fitting-ibp-conex-16909/

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Theshed

posted on 20/10/22 at 09:24 AM Reply With Quote
Could you not run a cold tig bead around each end?
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John Bonnett

posted on 20/10/22 at 09:35 AM Reply With Quote
Some great ideas you've put forward and I'm very grateful to you all for taking the time to reply. I have a feeling that just one bump would be sufficient to stop the pipe from blowing off because it wouldn't be able to slip past the clip.
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indykid

posted on 20/10/22 at 09:52 AM Reply With Quote
As The Shed said, as a man with a TIG welder, three short stitches around the pipe will do an ample job
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big_wasa

posted on 20/10/22 at 10:50 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
I was lucky enough to be given a beading tool similar to the one Big Wasa illustrated, however I have passed it on to another member on here.
They may see this and offer it on.


That was the v1 I cobbled together.

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big_wasa

posted on 20/10/22 at 11:02 AM Reply With Quote
Pete Clayton was also looking to use it if either of them show up.
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SJ

posted on 20/10/22 at 11:08 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Some great ideas you've put forward and I'm very grateful to you all for taking the time to reply. I have a feeling that just one bump would be sufficient to stop the pipe from blowing off because it wouldn't be able to slip past the clip.


I didn't bead mine and have had absolutely no issues with hoses coming off. As long as the pipe and hose are properly matched for size, and assmbled dry there's no need to bead them.

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padrc66

posted on 20/10/22 at 12:54 PM Reply With Quote
as mentioned above, i made my own joiners from 32mm aluminium aerial mast from B&Q with a couple of pop rivets in each end - no problems in 3 years.
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coyoteboy

posted on 20/10/22 at 02:27 PM Reply With Quote
All too complex - get something conical and hard and smack it down onto it, flaring the ends little. Does the same job.






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number-1

posted on 20/10/22 at 05:06 PM Reply With Quote
I used hairspray on non welded/ beaded tube when working on the single seater Roadrunner racing SR1. Coat the outside of the ali tube with hairspray and attach the silicone pipe, clamp it down and let it dry for a few mins
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rdodger

posted on 20/10/22 at 06:33 PM Reply With Quote
Hi John

I have a couple of these http://www.earls.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=277_17_157

What size pipe are you using? I have one for 1" 1/4 32mm tube and one for 5/8" 15mm tube

You are welcome to borrow them .

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John Bonnett

posted on 20/10/22 at 07:20 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Hi John

I have a couple of these http://www.earls.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=277_17_157

What size pipe are you using? I have one for 1" 1/4 32mm tube and one for 5/8" 15mm tube

You are welcome to borrow them .


Thanks Roger, PM sent.

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bccox18

posted on 21/10/22 at 09:54 AM Reply With Quote
For putting a bead on my coolant pipes, I ended up buying a pair of these Dennett crimping pliers…

Pliers

Description
Description


Cutting the tip of them off…

Description
Description



And after a bit of filing to smooth the edges off on the crimp surfaces it gave a decent bead for not a lot of outlay.

Description
Description



Thanks

Bob

[Edited on 21/10/22 by bccox18]

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