nick9one1
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| posted on 4/8/25 at 06:59 PM |
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Aligning input/output sprocket adapters
I need to precisely align these. The diff is mounted directly to the engine so the is no driveshaft or UJ.
When I finger tighten the bolts there is about 1/2mm of play. I can get it nicely aligned on the bench with a dial indicator, but it's not going
to be easy when on the car.
I was thinking about drilling some 8mm holes and fitting some locating pegs. Glis this a good/bad idea? Other suggestions?
[Edited on 4/8/25 by nick9one1]
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adithorp
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| posted on 5/8/25 at 06:49 AM |
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Clocking the flanges on the outside diameter does rely on the outer being concentric with the center line, so you need to check that. I'd guess
once you've clocked the flanges, drilling and fitting alignment dowels should ensure the fit.
The other issue you then have is perfect alignment of engine and diff. Even the slightest misalignment will put load on yhe input/output shaft
bearings and cause premature failure.
I'd think using a rubber doughnut type coupling would be a better solution.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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nick9one1
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| posted on 5/8/25 at 09:02 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Clocking the flanges on the outside diameter does rely on the outer being concentric with the center line, so you need to check that. I'd guess
once you've clocked the flanges, drilling and fitting alignment dowels should ensure the fit.
The other issue you then have is perfect alignment of engine and diff. Even the slightest misalignment will put load on yhe input/output shaft
bearings and cause premature failure.
I'd think using a rubber doughnut type coupling would be a better solution.
thank you. A guibo did cross my mind, but I really dont have a lot of space to play with.
I'll give the alignment dowls a go first. When I inevitably get a failed bearing I'll change the design
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kj
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| posted on 5/8/25 at 08:21 PM |
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Anyone got a sprocket adaptor for a kawasaki zx1200 or zx1400
Think about it, think about it again and then do it.
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Dingz
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| posted on 5/8/25 at 10:38 PM |
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Can you set them up in a lathe and machine a short spigot on one half and a recess for it to fit into in the other?
Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 6/8/25 at 08:34 AM |
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I'd be making the engine and diff a single assembly that bolts out/in, nothing else is going to be reliable there.
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nick9one1
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| posted on 6/8/25 at 08:45 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
I'd be making the engine and diff a single assembly that bolts out/in, nothing else is going to be reliable there.
You probably cant tell from the first picture I posted, but I've done this. I built a subframe that both rigidly mount to. The subframe then sits
on rubber engine mounts.
(upside down)
[Edited on 6/8/25 by nick9one1]
[Edited on 6/8/25 by nick9one1]
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nick205
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| posted on 6/8/25 at 03:52 PM |
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What is the rear axle, diff and drive shafts from?
Are they all from the same donor car?
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jacko
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| posted on 6/8/25 at 05:05 PM |
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Looks like there is part of a VW beetle with toque. Suspension
555
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adithorp
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| posted on 6/8/25 at 07:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dingz
Can you set them up in a lathe and machine a short spigot on one half and a recess for it to fit into in the other?
Usually both have a recess and the propshaft has spigots on its flanges.. You vould make a (stepped?) ring that fits in-between engaging both
recess'.
Diff looks like Freelander maybe?
[Edited on 6/8/25 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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nick205
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| posted on 7/8/25 at 08:16 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Looks like there is part of a VW beetle with toque. Suspension
It looks VW Beetle'ish to me, but I'm not really that familiar with the Beetle so not certain.
I guess it may be a mixture of donor parts choasen to achieve the desired layout.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 7/8/25 at 08:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick9one1
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
I'd be making the engine and diff a single assembly that bolts out/in, nothing else is going to be reliable there.
You probably cant tell from the first picture I posted, but I've done this. I built a subframe that both rigidly mount to. The subframe then sits
on rubber engine mounts.
(upside down)
[Edited on 6/8/25 by nick9one1]
[Edited on 6/8/25 by nick9one1]
Ah in that case it should be fine if you do get it aligned properly. Sorry for the side-track.
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