MikeR
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| posted on 20/4/05 at 11:44 AM |
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Xflow Starters & flywheels - what fits?
Arrgghh.... just got my exhaust and it fouls the solonoid starter moter. As i recall my other (inertia?) starter didn't work. I've got a
vauge memory that 1 starter will drive both ring gear but one won't so....
What starters work with what ring gear and whats the easiest way to identify the ring gear (as i've got 2 flywheels).
The complication is i'd like to keep my existing flywheel as its a lightened Caterham one.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 20/4/05 at 12:13 PM |
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Normally Different ring gear you have to use the starter type for flywheel BUT some Ford the ring gears are universal, the teeth chamfered on both
sides.
A ring gear for the inertia type has a chamfer/lead-in on the gearbox side of the teeth.
A ring gear for the pre-engage type has a chamfer/lead-in on the engine side of the teeth.
[Edited on 20/4/05 by britishtrident]
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MikeR
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| posted on 20/4/05 at 02:14 PM |
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Hmmm, sort of imples that it isn't possible for one of hte starters to drive both ring gears 
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 20/4/05 at 07:00 PM |
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Xflow & Pinto Starters
Mike -
Check out this thread; gives some very useful info.
www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=20538
Lol
Dick
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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MikeR
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| posted on 20/4/05 at 08:42 PM |
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cheers Dick, posted a question as my automatic sourced pre engaged starter has the solonoid at the top not the side. If i can get one with the
solonoid at the side i'm laughing.
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 12:16 PM |
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Xflow Starter vs Flywheel
All -
Have watched/read this thread with much interest, as I'm facing similar prob. However, still have option to fit manky old inertia type starter.
BUT - dunno if it works.
OTOH - The 1600 Pinto (pre-engaged) starter definitely works (or did in the Capri donor).
Conclusions so far :-
1: Tooth profile for Xflow flywheel ring gear different to pre-engaged type starter,
2: Xflow f/wheel ring gear position gives incorrect engagement with pre-engaged starter,
3: Pre-engaged starter fits bell-housing ('cos it's also from the Capri).
Is it possible to have pre-engaged ring-gear fitted to xflow f/wheel? Any idea of cost?
Pic of f/wheel gear for ref:
 
Rescued attachment FlyGear.JPG
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 01:07 PM |
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A ring gear costs about £35 - £40 new, expect around £15 for fitting. At least, that was what I was quoted a few months ago (before I gave up and
bought a replacement inertia starter).
I don't know if you're aware, but fitting these rings is an art. It has to be heated enough to expand, but not hot enough to lose its
temper or hardness. It then has to be dropped into the correct position almost immediately, 'cos as soon as it touches the flywheel it will
start to shrink. This could be done at home, if you have the technology to heat it evenly, but personally I'd pay the cash to someone else
who's done it before...
David
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 02:39 PM |
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Ring Gear
Thanks for that, David.
Seems that simplest way to will be to fit Pinto flywheel, to the xflow crank. Always provided that it's possible??????
Has anyone tried this?
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MikeR
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 08:49 PM |
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Dick, if you get your hands on an ex caterham flywheel it will have the correct ring gear fitted. If you read the haynes manual, some crossflows did
have that ring gear fitted. Of the three flywheels i've got 2 are inertia and one is pre-engaged. I can let you have the pre-engaged ring but
not the flywheel (its ex caterham, lightened and balanced)
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Hornet
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 09:20 AM |
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Perhaps you could remove exhaust and extend all 4 branches by 25mm or so to allow you to clear starter? simply cut and weld job 
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britishtrident
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 10:08 AM |
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Fitting a ring gear is easy but it must not be overheated and be heated evenly
This is the tradditional method used since electric starters were first used --
(1) To remove old ring gear drill a hole or holes in it the split it with first a saw then a cold chisel.
(2) Working on level solid ground the flywheel is placed the correct side facing up on top of 2 suitable wooden battons.
(3) Traddionally the ring is heated in oil -- The ring gear is placed in a steel dish or tray. The ring gear should be almost completly immersed
in engine oil. supported by 3 or 4 fire bricks this sits on to of another a steel tray about 2 to 3 inches deep. a small ammount of parraffin is
placed in the tray and ignited, this heats the oil in the upper tray until it reaches flash point and starts to burn.
(4) Left to burn for a couple of minutes the ring gear is removed and after first checking it is the correct way round dropped over the flywheel and
hammered full home with a couple of blows with a hide or copper mallet.
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 02:26 PM |
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Ring Gear
BT -
Yeah, had already concluded that a specialist would have to do this job. Your observations very interesting, nonetheless.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 02:29 PM |
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When I saw it done, the workshop had a large steel sheet with a gas burner underneath - they polished up the ring gear in 4 places around the ring,
laid it on the hot plate, then waited until the metal started to colour. I think that was the posh equivalent of the Haynes method!
It's not expensive to have it done professionally as it's easy when you've done it a few times and have the right technology.
It's also something that can be set up and left for a while, so the mechanic can go and do something else - you'll usually pay very little
in man-hours.
David
[Edited on 27/4/05 by David Jenkins]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 05:42 PM |
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Some machine shops can heat the ring gear electrically in seconds , used to have one locally in Cambridge that used to fit ring gears this way.
Quicker and cheaper than gas?
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