ewanspence
|
| posted on 21/11/02 at 09:18 PM |
|
|
Exhausts
I am building a V6 and will need 2 exhausts. I want cheap but good looking ones. Can I use a pair of bike exhaust? and will the SVA accept them.
Each bank of 3 cylinders equate to 1.4 engine and around 75-85 bhp.
I could use a pair of Metro or 106 boxes but would rather nice chrome boxes. Any ideas folks.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
JohnLocost7
|
| posted on 23/11/02 at 07:48 PM |
|
|
Try WWW.LoLocost they do a stainless steel exhaust silencer.
£55 each.
[Edited on 23/11/02 by JohnLocost7]
|
|
|
geoff shep
|
| posted on 23/11/02 at 09:04 PM |
|
|
Me too - V6 I mean. Those must be the same as supplied on (all?) the Robin Hoods. Looks the same as mine and it is v noisy
 - its got noisier over the years. Looks wise I think this is better - don't know
about price yet though: http://www.exhaustsbydesign.co.uk/
(click on recent work and go to the bottom of the page)
Try a Search for re-packable silencers too, I'm sure I've seen them mentioned here before.
From RH experience too, I'd go for a section consisting of tail pipe+silencer+forward pipe as one unit all the way into the engine compartment and
have some sort of flange joint inside, out of sight, onto a manifold section.
|
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
| posted on 23/11/02 at 11:57 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by ewanspence
I am building a V6 and will need 2 exhausts. I want cheap but good looking ones. Can I use a pair of bike exhaust? and will the SVA accept them.
Each bank of 3 cylinders equate to 1.4 engine and around 75-85 bhp.
I could use a pair of Metro or 106 boxes but would rather nice chrome boxes. Any ideas folks.
Thanks
Why not use the back box from the donor?
My engine is the 2.4 version V6 cologne from an 87 e granada. The back box looks just the kinda thing used on locosts. I have two on my car (the donor
has just one via a siamesed pipe) which I bought new at about 35 quid each. (Same as fitted to the 2.9).
They sound remarkably silent for straight throu glass pack type construction.
There were pics on here until they went down.
check my folder on TOL to see what they look like.
atb
steve
|
|
|
Dunc
|
| posted on 25/11/02 at 12:51 PM |
|
|
Make it yourself. How hard can it be? cut some sheet, bend some tube and weld it all together.
|
|
|
Simon
|
| posted on 25/11/02 at 03:38 PM |
|
|
Agree with Dunc.
I'll be purchasing perforated steel tube 2" dia) x 2 metre length, bit of 20 swg sheet, bend to shape, make end caps, weld up.
I need to two, too. V8 see.
I figure 50 cm silencing each side should be just enough!!
Plus ear defenders:-)
ATB
Simon
|
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
| posted on 25/11/02 at 04:34 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Simon
Agree with Dunc.
I'll be purchasing perforated steel tube 2" dia) x 2 metre length, bit of 20 swg sheet, bend to shape, make end caps, weld up.
I need to two, too. V8 see.
I figure 50 cm silencing each side should be just enough!!
Plus ear defenders:-)
ATB
Simon
actually, there is more to it than that!!!!!!
There are two common types of silencer.
One is the flay box type that has lots of baffles and a long path through the box. These are tuned to reduce noise. Taking a stab at it might work.
It might not.
The second type is what americans call glass packs, and are the round ones with a pipe through the centre.
These have a straight through pipe. You have lots of holes in the pipe. There is a round can around it. The can isnt hollow - its full of glass fibre
wadding and has a mesh surround to stop it blowing out.
For the sake of 35 quid, you can have somehing that looks pretty good and works - instead of hoping that you did it right and it wont be too noisy.
atb
steve
 
Rescued attachment exhaust.jpg
|
|
|
geoff shep
|
| posted on 25/11/02 at 04:39 PM |
|
|
Where are those back boxes going - on the sides?
What are they made of - are they they standard mild steel?
|
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
| posted on 25/11/02 at 07:15 PM |
|
|
they go UNDER the car - my cars not a std locost. They are welded as you see them in the pic as an assembly.
The 35 quid ones are mild. I guess you gould buy the stainless ones at a price.
However, on a locost, dont you have a heat sheild over it? You could cover up most of a mild box.
atb
steve
|
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
| posted on 25/11/02 at 07:19 PM |
|
|
exhausts fit like this.......but you wouldnt get the space under a std car ride height.
btw - i dont have luggage straps on the tnak now!
 
Rescued attachment exhausts.jpg
|
|
|
ewanspence
|
| posted on 3/12/02 at 09:58 AM |
|
|
I ordered up 2 lolocost stainless boxes
Lolocost say therir boxes are SVA compliant. Does this mean I do not need to make the protective covers for them?
[img]
http://www.lolocost.co.uk/ASPpages/part_details.asp?PartID=85[/img]
[Edited on 3/12/02 by ewanspence]
|
|
|
bob
|
| posted on 3/12/02 at 12:42 PM |
|
|
Ewan
I have heard of some failing SVA on noise with these boxes,so it may be worth repacking the box a bit to be sure.
As for the heat shield you will need one i'm sure.
|
|
|
CairB
|
| posted on 3/12/02 at 01:04 PM |
|
|
I've used a Lolocost silencer? on my 2.0 Pintoed Indy. It got through SAV without a heat shield over the exhaust but I later put a reflective shield
between the exhaust and the fibre glass side panel. The silencer doesn't seem to get excessively hot, I've warmed my hand on it at traffic lights
without getting burned, the sound absorbsion material also acts as thermal insulation. I think that the reference to SVA compatability is the lack of
sharp edges and round mouthed tail pipe. Refer to previous posts regarding noise level tho - I fitted a baffle upstream of the box to pass on noise
level.
|
|
|
paulbeyer
|
| posted on 3/12/02 at 11:08 PM |
|
|
Does anyone know of a source for stainless steel exhaust components? In particular the 2 into 1 collectors. My dad has just made me a stainless steel
roll bar for my Indy and the tig welds are unbelievable. I know I can get a system from MK but the welds on the ones I've seen are like ckicken shit.
My dad would kill me if I came home with something that bad. 
|
|
|
ewanspence
|
| posted on 4/12/02 at 10:39 AM |
|
|
Thanks Bob
I am hoping that if the silencer being used for 1300 1600 x flows and 1600 2000 pintos with upto 100bhp is borderline that me using 2 of the boxes
with a 150-160 bhp 2.8 should also suffice. Once running I may insert a db reducer that I saw in a racecar catalogue somewhere. I think it is just a
smaller pipe that is inserted into the current exhaust somewhere and cuts the noise (and power) but is also easily removed.
Ewan.
Visit the MegaGrip site :-
http://www.geocities.com/ewanspence/
|
|
|
Liam
|
| posted on 4/12/02 at 05:05 PM |
|
|
Hey Ewan,
Any pics of your front prop at all? Cant find anything that recent on your site - get it updated!
Liam
|
|
|
ewanspence
|
| posted on 5/12/02 at 09:40 AM |
|
|
yes, I do have pics
but the site has become a chore.....I will get to it, I have 2weeks of at Xmas so it should be done then.
Ewan.
Visit the MegaGrip site :-
http://www.geocities.com/ewanspence/
|
|
|
ewanspence
|
| posted on 18/12/02 at 11:15 AM |
|
|
welding stainless
I got the silencers. Not bad for 55 quid each. Because of the bend in the pipe leading into the box 1 side is fine but I need to modify the other one.
Will the pipe also be stainless, whats the best way to check?
My question is - Can I weld stainess with my mig, do you use different wire or gas?
Ewan.
Visit the MegaGrip site :-
http://www.geocities.com/ewanspence/
|
|
|
thetankwad
|
| posted on 18/12/02 at 11:40 AM |
|
|
Stainless welding
In my experience, stainless can be welded with a regular MIG, but its a b@5#@$d. You will need different wire and gas too, but i cant remember exactly
what type. Will look it up...
|
|
|
thetankwad
|
| posted on 18/12/02 at 12:35 PM |
|
|
found it
right, you can get away with your current gas, perhaps turned up a bit on the pressure front, but you'll need stainless wire, about 1mm thick. if
you want to be really fancy, try a 25%argon mix with your current gas. ifthe aforementioned works though, dont bother, cos the results will be hard to
distinguish...
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 18/12/02 at 05:30 PM |
|
|
i have welded stainless water pipes with mild steel wire and co2 works fine but i supose will rust in time
|
|
|
Viper
|
| posted on 18/12/02 at 10:58 PM |
|
|
If you are going to weld stainless with a mig then you have to have stainless wire and pure argon gas, if you weld stainless with mild steel the weld
will be very brittle, and mig on stainless looks shite anyway, do yourself a favour and find a engineering co with a friendly welder that can TIG it
will look so much better and it wil last and if you speak to him nicely he would probably do it for a drink....
|
|
|
