darrens
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| posted on 7/1/06 at 05:28 PM |
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Oil & Water Senders RV8 +Dizzy
Anyone know what the best place for an oil sender for the RV8, I've heard some drill and tap the sump, is there a problem with it being
tee'd into the same port as the oil pressure switch (I guess this is a UNF thread), I also can't seem to find out what thread the water
temp sender is.
On a slightly different note. I currently have a standard dizzy with points (engine was 3.5 now 3.9). Are the retro fit electronic ingition parts (i.e
the ones where you remove the points and it fits under the dizzy cap, such as Aldon and Lumenition units) any good, or am I better off buying a a new
dizzy such as the mallory dual point.
apologies for number of questions, just trying to get things rollin again. Any help appreciated.
Darren
[Edited on 7/1/06 by darrens]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/1/06 at 06:29 PM |
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Neither place is good. What you are trying to measure is the oil temp of the oil going to the bearings, teeing into oil pressure switch take off
won't do this and the sump temp will be too hot at the top and too low at the bottom.
Ideally if you have a cooler or remote filter it should in a tee fitted to the hose that returns the oil back to the block. An alternative is
clamping it to the oil filter case.
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darrens
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| posted on 7/1/06 at 06:31 PM |
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sorry, I didn't make it clear, I'm measuring oil pressure.
Cheers
Darren
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/1/06 at 06:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by darrens
sorry, I didn't make it clear, I'm measuring oil pressure.
Cheers
Darren
The answer is pretty obvious really --- you find get any oil pressure in the sump !
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darrens
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| posted on 7/1/06 at 07:17 PM |
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The answer is pretty obvious really --- you find get any oil pressure in the sump !
was rather wasn't it, I'll keep a low profile for awhile.
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Simon
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| posted on 7/1/06 at 07:48 PM |
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Darren,
I found I couldn't fit a (my) oil pressure sender to the Mocal cover for the remote filter, so CBS made up a pipe with a threaded hole - I gave
them the pipe/sender etc. Wasn't expensive and it came fitted with an earth wire which I'd forgot to mention to them!
As for water temp sender - I believe it's the same as for a (proper) Mini.
Don't worry about not engaging brain as I'm sure most of us have postings on here where we too hadn't
ATB
Simon
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froggy
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 01:42 PM |
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darren, points dizzy is toss to be honest and the dual point mallory is ok but a pain to set up, il dig out a dizzy for you when i send the other
little bits, the best stock system is the later lucas system with the amp fitted to the side of the dizzy, ive got a few different types so il find
you one that will do the job
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caber
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 03:42 PM |
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On most RV8 there is a block that the fuel filter bolts or screws onto with all the necessary tappings. If it is not there go get one off an RV8 out
of a Range Rover. This is right after the oil pump and works on my Rangie. The distributor is pretty naff if ipoints type. I fitted mine with an Aldon
Ignitor electronic set up, not too expensive but is extremely tollerent of worn cam and bearings. It makes an increadibe difference to smooth
running and performance on an otherwise shagged dizzy. The Aldon has fixd dwell angle but that seems to be OK. It is well worth stripping the dizzy
and makikng sure that the timing springs are there and doing the right thing, the haynes and other books give advance curve you probably need to look
at curve for 3.9 and get/ adjust your springs to suit this curve is critical in getting good torque delivery up the rev range.
Good luck and be prepared to do a lot of fiddling to get it right
Caber
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 04:12 PM |
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Agree re dual point stems -- best avoided.
Istr the Mallory is just a single stage advance --- most distrubters are 2 stage advance they used 2 diffrerent stiffness springs one that cover
sthe low range and a second spring that only come under tension at over a pre-decided rpm.
Single stage distrubuters are OK for engines that aren't used a lot at low crank speeds.
With early SD1 distrubtors beware of failure of failure of the grey ribbon cable within the dizzie between the pick up and the igniter unit -- it get
fatigue failures due the baseplate movenemt of the vacumn advance -- used to cause more than few mysterious misfires.
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 05:35 PM |
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Also be aware early points distributor has different conection to oil pump than later ones and will probably involve changeing the oil pump internals.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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caber
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 08:59 PM |
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It's easier to change the drive component on the dizzy shaft it is held on with a roll pin that you need to knock out to fully strip the
dizzy.
Caber
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02GF74
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| posted on 9/1/06 at 11:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by darrens
Anyone know what the best place for an oil sender for the RV8, I've heard some drill and tap the sump, is there a problem with it being
tee'd into the same port as the oil pressure switch (I guess this is a UNF thread), I also can't seem to find out what thread the water
temp sender is.
On a slightly different note. I currently have a standard dizzy with points (engine was 3.5 now 3.9). Are the retro fit electronic ingition parts (i.e
the ones where you remove the points and it fits under the dizzy cap, such as Aldon and Lumenition units) any good, or am I better off buying a a new
dizzy such as the mallory dual point.
apologies for number of questions, just trying to get things rollin again. Any help appreciated.
Darren
[Edited on 7/1/06 by darrens]
You are referring to oil pressure sender so sump is not the right place!! (I have oil temp sender fitted here after welding a nut inside the
sump).
The SD1 and Range Rover oil pump base looks like this:
port sizes are:
1. 1/4 BSP (parallel)
2. 1/4 NPTF (tapered)
3. not sure but could be 9/16 UNF (parallel).
and they are all interchangeable, i.e. you can fit oil pressure, oil temp or oil warning swetich into any of them but depends on what senders you can
find. Also you can buy T- pieces.
The P6 base has 1 port less, differs by having shorter length gears and distributor drive as well as P6 filter thread is 13/16 UNF and RR/SD1 is 3/4
UNF.
If you mess with the oil pump, it will need priming, either fill gearswith vaseline or use a prming tool to spin the gears after removing the dizzy,
like this home made priming tool
The water temp sensor on the carb v8 manifold it is 5/8 UNF.
I am not sure why people are slating the points dizzy, if it is not shagged, it should work fine, You can fit Maplin ignition amp, £9.99 (just built
one over the w/e) or fit Lumenition like what I have in mine. Bear in mind Lumenition will set you back about £150 or so!
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Fred W B
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| posted on 9/1/06 at 11:29 AM |
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After reading a lot about suitable ignitions to use on a RV8, and battling with the distributor on my pre SD1 rover, I threw caution (and the credit
card) to the winds, and ordered this from Paul at V8 Tuner
044 1953 607274
www.v8tuner.co.uk
Price of the complete MSD kit was £545 UKP (yes, it did cost more than twice what I originally paid for the whole engine) but the old dizzy does make
a good priming tool once you remove the drive gear and points plate!
Very happy with fit and performance.
Cheers Fred WB
 
shiny bits
[Edited on 9/1/06 by Fred W B]
[Edited on 9/1/06 by Fred W B]
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darrens
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| posted on 9/1/06 at 01:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by froggy
darren, points dizzy is toss to be honest and the dual point mallory is ok but a pain to set up, il dig out a dizzy for you when i send the other
little bits, the best stock system is the later lucas system with the amp fitted to the side of the dizzy, ive got a few different types so il find
you one that will do the job
Cheers for that, appreciated
Darren
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darrens
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| posted on 9/1/06 at 02:00 PM |
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cheers for all replies, feel well informed now.
Cheers
Darren
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