Chaz
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 posted on 10/4/06 at 12:12 PM |
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Zetec Water Hose Connections
I'm trying to work out how to route my coolant hosing around my engine bay. But first i need to work out what goes where! The black plastic
housing at the gearbox end of the zetec has no less than 4 places for hoses and 2 sensors can anyone advise which bits goes where???
Just to jog the memory, there is one large, 2 medium and 1 very small in/outlet. 2 sensors, 1 top and 1 bottom. Where do all these go?
If anyone has a good setup for hosing around there engine bay pictures/ suggestions would be great!
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dave1888
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| posted on 10/4/06 at 12:35 PM |
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Courtesy of Paul Toyne website
This should help.
 
Rescued attachment cooling-system-r2.jpg
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BKLOCO
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| posted on 10/4/06 at 02:43 PM |
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Just to add to the above diag:
If you are not using a heater then connect the heater outlet from the side exit pipe directly to the thermostat.
Some radiators do not have the small pipe that is shown. If this is the case "T" into the top hose close to the radiator and run from the
header tank to that.
I can post some pictures of my install tomorrow if you like.
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!! 
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Chaz
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| posted on 10/4/06 at 06:35 PM |
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Yes pictures would be great!
What happens if you put pipes to different places? Are there any one way valves in the themostat?
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BKLOCO
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| posted on 10/4/06 at 07:20 PM |
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There are no one way valves in the thermostat but there is a bypass system.
When the stat is closed the water flows through the block into the side exit pipe to the stat via heater and second bypass hose then back to the
block. Thus bypassing the rad so speed up warm up. but putting hot water immediately through the heater.
When the stat opens it closes the bypass route but leaves the heater circuit opn. It also opens the circuit from the end of the side exit pipe,
through the rad, returning to the block via the long aluminium tube and the stat.
I hope this help you understand the wonders of the Zetec cooling system.
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!!
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grusks
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| posted on 10/4/06 at 07:21 PM |
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Just doing mine at the mo, im running without a heater. I have a twin outlet 'T' piece that came with my kit, it sits in the bottom hose
by the rad. Basiclly 1 outlet goes to one side of the thermo housing and the other outlet goes to the other one.
To save on the amount of ubber hose running about the engine bay, im hoping to run some tubing 2 lenths of 15mm ali tube (if i can nic some from work)
from the front of the engine bay by the rad along the bottom of the chassis rails (away from moving parts or exhaust) to the rear of the engine
bay.
[Edited on 10/4/06 by grusks]
[Edited on 10/4/06 by grusks]
[Edited on 10/4/06 by grusks]
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stevebubs
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| posted on 10/4/06 at 08:15 PM |
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There's a pic of my install in my photo archive (Look left and click into engine bay folder)
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Chaz
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| posted on 11/4/06 at 10:19 AM |
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Looking at the diagram cant i just miss out the side exit pipe (why do you need it?) Do those pipes need to go to the lower 2 connections on the
thermostat? There is already water passing through the thermostat isnt there?
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BKLOCO
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| posted on 11/4/06 at 03:26 PM |
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NO!
Read the description. If you do not include at least the bypass hose then when the stat is closed you will get no flow through the engine block which
could lead to localised boiling.
The diagrams above are the best way of plumbing the Zetec into a seven type car.
C****ham used to do it a different way by plumbing the bypass into the top hose somehow and this caused over cooling so that the engine never reached
opperating temp.
I have got a link somewhere that explains all this s**t but it's simplest to just use the tried and tested method above without trying to
reinvent the wheel!
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!!
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stevebubs
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| posted on 11/4/06 at 05:19 PM |
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Mine's plumbed in like this...
 
Rescued attachment StevePlumbing.jpg
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BKLOCO
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| posted on 11/4/06 at 07:25 PM |
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Yep
That circuit still includes the by pass so is fine.
You have effectively just removed the heater circuit.
It should warm up slightly quicker.
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!!
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Dusty
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| posted on 12/4/06 at 11:42 AM |
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BKLOCO, I have a heater which allows constant water flow. Can this act as the bypass and allow me to remove the original bypass which is presumably
there because ford like the option of hot or cold ventilation.
I know reinventing the wheel but if the heater can act as the bypass I can save the clutter and cost of a pipe.
 
Rescued attachment heater.jpg
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