ruudbeckers
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| posted on 4/5/06 at 06:48 PM |
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Some XE questions
I have a few questions about my XE engine:
1) I am going to make a manifold for my gixxer tb's. Now I was wondering if I also have to make a connection for the water outlet next to the
first inlet port or that I can just close it. (I am also going to close the outlet on the side of the head). I do i also have to make some sort of
valve to release the air?
2) I am going to order a bellhousing for a type 9 conversion from yukspeed, but what other parts do I need? And can I use the clutch fork from my type
9 gearbox, or do I need another fork?
Cheers, Ruud
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ned
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| posted on 4/5/06 at 07:08 PM |
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My throttle bodies block the water outlet by no.1 on the head. i have drilled this as i needed to relocate the water temp sensor. My understanding is
that its just used as a bleed point to stop any air pockets in the head.
by the other water outlet on the side of the head i assume you mean the heater outlet on the back? This can be blocked up with a core plug or piece of
ally plate the appropriate size fixed in with locktite (this is what i've done)
I'm using a hydraulic clutch as it means you can get the engine further back in the chassis for better front/rear balance as otherwis the clutch
fork fowls the tunnel opening/master cylinders.
You can get a type9 fork modified by yukspeed i gather or the one that fits direct is an rs2000 one i think but they are like hens teeth.
You may also need a release bearing to suit the fork and may need a spigot for the crank along with a different clutch plate to suit the ford spline
pattern.
I'm sure someone else will be along shortly to confirm/correct the above.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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paulvdk
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| posted on 4/5/06 at 08:21 PM |
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Ruud, my advice:
Order a complete set including fork, bolts and bearings.
What enginemanagement are you going to use on your XE?
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ruudbeckers
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| posted on 4/5/06 at 08:39 PM |
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I am going to use a megasquirt with the wheel decoding option, but I'm still looking for a lm1815 and a coil pack.
Which parts do I need when I want a hydraulic clutch? Perhaps from a omega gearbox or so?
Ruud.
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chrsgrain
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| posted on 4/5/06 at 08:50 PM |
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Just bang an omega 'box onto it! No clever bell housings or anything and a concentric hydraulic clutch....
I happen to have a spare one in the garage!
Chris
Though I expect postage would be more than its worth!
[Edited on 4/5/06 by chrsgrain]
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 4/5/06 at 09:23 PM |
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I think I'm missing something, but how are you converting between the round throttle body and the oval port if the TB's are going to mate
directly into that plate? Surely there will be a very large step between the two?
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ruudbeckers
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 06:55 AM |
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Instead of using a part of the original manifold, I rather make a complete new manifold. I think this will look a little bit nicer and will flow also
better. I also think it will also be easier to make, as I don't have to block the four holes for the injectors and don't have to cut the
original manifold. Probably I am going to make the manifold out of steel, or I'll have to find someone who can weld alloy for me.
Ruud.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 08:43 AM |
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Easier to use the modified stub of the std manifold. Personally I would block the holes in the bike throttle bodies, and use the vauxhall/opel
injectors in the original positions and with the original fuel rail etc.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 11:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
Easier to use the modified stub of the std manifold. Personally I would block the holes in the bike throttle bodies, and use the vauxhall/opel
injectors in the original positions and with the original fuel rail etc.
Potentialy more power with the injectors further back though!
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ned
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 12:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Potentialy more power with the injectors further back though!
only at higher revs though. lower revs and the injector aiming at teh back of the valve improves efficiency and eceonomy. over 8000-8500 rpm you want
to have a second set of injectors before the butterflies to get the best atomisation at high rpm with faster breathing down the inlet tract.
Ned.
ps of course second set of injectors are only used at full throttle,wouldn't want fuel being squirted at partially open butterflies lol
pps:
 
twin injectors 300bhp
[Edited on 5/5/06 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 01:56 PM |
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Yea, I'd be wary of mounting the injectors too far from the head. On a lot of back to back tests (that I have read about and spoken to folks in
our racing club who run engine building concerns) the injectors mounted further back (how far I don;t know) suffered from pretty poor (very poor in
some cases) part throttle driveablility due to fuel drop-out.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 06:56 PM |
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Mark,
I wouldn't worry, the injectors on my qed direct to head bodies are further back than standard i believe. There is a set of mounting points
nearer to the head on them supposedly for a second set but they are not drilled as standard and as already said a second set needs to be mounted
further up the inlet tract for high rpm breathing. Injector position is always going to be a compromise in one sense with economy vs performance vs
rpm range. ideally you'd want the injector position to move along with the rpm, at the same time that the inlet tract changes and the exhaust
lengths change if you wanted to get the ultimate torque/bhp for a given rpm.
Some f1 teams have gone some way to achieving this - I have seen a fuel system on an f1 engine where the length of the inlet trumpets changed as the
revs rose!
30mm or just over an inch is going to make no noticable difference to the running of your engine.
Ned.
ps my qed bodies here:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/IMG_1096.jpg
[Edited on 5/5/06 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/5/06 at 12:22 AM |
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Yep, 30mm will certainly be no prob.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 6/5/06 at 10:48 AM |
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The later GSXR throttle bodies had a much steeper injector angle which deliberately injects part of the fuel spray onto the butterfly. Apparently
this improves fuel atomisation over the earlier injectors with the injector pointing more towards the port.
They also have the secondary butterflies which is supposed to help part throttle response. I'm not going to permanently block mine...could be a
nice project to play with once I get it running.
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