t.j.
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 06:25 PM |
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how low can you go?
Q.
Made my chassis 360 mm high.
Don't want any bulge on my bonnet.
So i angle my engine......
Does any body see problems with this angle?
BTW any doubts on the engine mounts?
How much can i sjop of the mt75?
grtz
 
Description
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[Edited on 21/5/06 by t.j.]
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Liam
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 06:58 PM |
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Most locosts I've seen have about 2" of sump sticking out below the bottom rails and have no problem with speed bumps or bottoming out.
LIam
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DIY Si
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 06:58 PM |
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The engine looks a little low there. You'll want the line roughly level with the bottom of the chassis rails, or you'll forever be bottoming
out.
Previous post deleted due to lack of pic.
[Edited on 21/5/06 by DIY Si]
 
Rescued attachment Untitled-1.jpg
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 06:59 PM |
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Looks like you could shorten the sump to be able to get the engine level.
On another subject, the chassis is just tacked at the moment isn't it ? (sorry, I had to ask)
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t.j.
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 07:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by givemethebighammer
Looks like you could shorten the sump to be able to get the engine level.
On another subject, the chassis is just tacked at the moment isn't it ? (sorry, I had to ask)
right, only 1/4 is welded. The chassis is still under construction :-)
So 2 " under rails is acceptable? My plan is to short the sump max. so i have to figure out how much bolts i can miss from the mt75 gear-box.
No doubts about the stress by the engine on the two triangles?
[Edited on 21/5/06 by t.j.]
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 07:35 PM |
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You don't need to fix the bottom two bolts on the bellhousing the other four will be fine. Shorten the sump to level with the bottom of the bell
housing (not much point going any more than this). Probably worth putting some of the lost capacity back as 'wings' on the side of the
sump. Is that a DOHC sierra engine with an alloy sump ? If so will the steel one from something else fit, as it'll be much easier to shorten.
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JoelP
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 07:38 PM |
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id aim for a single inch below the bottom if possible. With two inches down there you would have to run a 5 or 6 inch ride height. With my latest
project, im having it paneled throughout and so the engine wont protrude at all, and i can run 3" of clearance.
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 07:44 PM |
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wings like this
 
Rescued attachment sump2.jpg
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t.j.
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 07:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by givemethebighammer
wings like this
Thx, there are 4 bolts which connect the gaerbox to the sump. If i would take a sump from a pinto does it fit? (except the 4 bolts?)
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 08:05 PM |
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I don't know too much about sierra engines (I have a zetec). But I think the DOHC engine was the same bottom end as the SOHC with a different
head ? So the steel sump from one of those should fit. As long as you have four bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine block (top and middle two)
I wouldn't worry about fixing it to the sump at all (my zetec is connected to my type 9 like this). I sure a sierra expert will be along to
clarify things shortly.
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PaulBuz
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 09:06 PM |
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DOHC is different fro the Pinto in every way possible.
The only option is to shorten the sump .
I should know ,I had to do it on my build as I too am using this engine
 
Rescued attachment Picture 524.jpg
ATB
Paul
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PaulBuz
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 09:07 PM |
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modded
 
Rescued attachment Picture 532.jpg
ATB
Paul
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andyharding
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| posted on 21/5/06 at 09:12 PM |
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I would make your own engine mounts from scratch. They will flex less and will be easier to mount.
These are the best photos I have atm:-
Mounts hown at left and right
 
Powder Coated Parts
Just visable in situ using a Land Rover rubber mount
 
Pre SVA Prep 7
[Edited on 21/5/06 by andyharding]
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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caber
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| posted on 22/5/06 at 04:47 AM |
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The prop shaft should be parallel to the gearbox out put shaft and diff input when car is level. If you angle the gearbox upwards the prop shaft
universal joints will be working very hard possibly creating vibration and early demise of the joint.
Best of luck
Caber
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NS Dev
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| posted on 22/5/06 at 07:41 AM |
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1) 2 inches below chassis is fine, 5 or 6 inch ride height is also fine.
2) Why would you want to run lower than the suspension is designed for!!????
3) The angle looks a bit steep to me re. prop angle and oil surge in the sump.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 22/5/06 at 12:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by PaulBuz
DOHC is different fro the Pinto in every way possible.
The only option is to shorten the sump .
I should know ,I had to do it on my build as I too am using this engine
Sorry my mistake, it's the Cosworth engine that was a basically a pinto bottom end with a different head. So the DOHC engine only ever had an
alloy sump ? I seen steel CVH sumps on zetecs is their nothing similar to the DOHC you could do the same with ?
[Edited on 22/5/06 by givemethebighammer]
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t.j.
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| posted on 22/5/06 at 04:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
1) 2 inches below chassis is fine, 5 or 6 inch ride height is also fine.
2) Why would you want to run lower than the suspension is designed for!!????
3) The angle looks a bit steep to me re. prop angle and oil surge in the sump.
1. my ride height will be about 13,5cm bottom wishbone parallel with surface.
2. I decide where and what 
3. ok you have a point here. i'll measure up my angle, make an UJ at the same degr front as rear.
I will let you know the angle........
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NS Dev
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| posted on 22/5/06 at 10:42 PM |
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fine, no probs, ride height sounds same as mine and I have 2 inches of sump under the chassis.
You deciding what and where is fine as long as you know what you are doing re. roll centres, bearing in mind these are heavily influenced by the
angles at the front of the chassis and the lengths of the wishbones.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/5/06 at 09:49 AM |
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If you level the engine the back will be lower and the front will be higher giving you more clearance underneath anyway won't it ?
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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t.j.
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| posted on 23/5/06 at 06:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
fine, no probs, ride height sounds same as mine and I have 2 inches of sump under the chassis.
You deciding what and where is fine as long as you know what you are doing re. roll centres, bearing in mind these are heavily influenced by the
angles at the front of the chassis and the lengths of the wishbones.
I read a lot and looked around.
My static-rollcentre is about 5 cm at front 9 at rear. bump-steer calculated at zero. caster 5.30' degr.
Only my camber-gain is a little bit low about .3 degr by 1 inch.
As some cars have non and others much more i watch what will happen.
I think that the camber-gain won't be the biggest problem by the low gravity and the low suspension-travel (8 cm).
The Tyre-choice, ET of the wheels will have more affect on the behavior of the car. My choice is 195/50r15 on Et22 or the ones i already have from the
donor 185/65r14 Et42.
If it will have it's affect in worst case i could to get less roll by stiffining the suspension or make an anti-roll-bar.
@pete: I have the rear gear-box mounting now level with the down-side of the rail.
As we have in Holland a lot of speedbumps i presumed that it is the best to avoid "sticky" things in the middle of the car.
Grtz
[Edited on 23/5/06 by t.j.]
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sebastiaan
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| posted on 23/5/06 at 06:28 PM |
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TJ,
Don't worry too much. I've got about 3" of ground clearance under my sump and it's been ok. Just take it nice and slow on our
dutch speedbumps.
Cheers from Zoetermeer,
Sebastiaan
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t.j.
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| posted on 1/6/06 at 06:45 PM |
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I've calculated my angle it is 3,34 degr.
So it is below the accepted 3,5 degr.
The diff. have to be also 3.34 degr angled. Than i hope i won't get any vibrations in the car.
Grtz
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