talltony
|
| posted on 15/10/06 at 02:47 PM |
|
|
Pinto - Help still needed
Hi Everyone,
Further to my previos post, I'm still having problems. To fill in on the situation, the cambelt snapped, I duly replaced it, and the engine
wouldn't start. The starter motor was engaging but the motor would not turn.
I decided that the battery was flat so attached the jumpleads, let them charge for 5 mins and then turned the key. The engine started straight away
but died within 20/30 seconds. This happened several times, there's no problem with fuel etc, does anyone have any wise words?
In the previous topic it was mooted that the earth might be an issue - is this still likely? If so, can someone please give me some handy hints as I
have no idea. There's a cable running from the battery negative to a point on the engine head, I guess this is it? Take it off, rub it down with
wire brush and check the connectors?
Thanks, any help really appreciated.
Tony
|
|
|
|
|
talltony
|
| posted on 15/10/06 at 02:59 PM |
|
|
Just been thinking - the engine was probably running for about 5/6 seconds...
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 15/10/06 at 03:48 PM |
|
|
It doesn't sound like an earth problem if the starter turns the engine. Which engine is it, 1.6 or 2.0 and which ignition system are you running
? What did you set the timing at when you renewed the belt ?
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
marcjagman
|
| posted on 15/10/06 at 03:53 PM |
|
|
Is it carb or injection? If its injection I would check the fuel supply, relay etc
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 15/10/06 at 03:57 PM |
|
|
Hi is the timing set right not 180 dg out
have you timed the dizzy right ?
Jacko
[Edited on 15/10/06 by jacko]
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 15/10/06 at 04:27 PM |
|
|
Faulty ballast resistor wire? ignition would only be powered when starter being cranked so would fire but die when key released. Ignition timing out a
mile could cause symptoms of flat battery and cause engine to die. As already asked what engine ? ignition system? and fuel system do you have? If
using a bosche distributor there is a line scribed in the top of the distributor body that the rotor arm should point to when setting cam timing as a
base setting
|
|
|
Dusty
|
| posted on 15/10/06 at 07:02 PM |
|
|
Easy to renew a cambelt and get the timing way out. Suggest you remove number 1 plug (the front one), put your thumb over the plug hole and wind the
engine round with a spanner on the pulley nut till you feel air being blown past your thumb. This is the compression stroke for cylinder number 1.
Continue winding but looking at the timing marks on the crank pulley wind it up to TDC. Now take off the dizzy cap and the rotor arm should be in the
position in the pic below. If not remove the dizzy, rotate the rotor arm to either about 3 o'clock or 5 o'clock standing looking at it from
behind the front wheel and feed it back in. It rotates a bit as it engages (can't remember which way) but you want it to end up at about 4
o'clock.
[Edited on 15/10/06 by Dusty]
 
Rescued attachment Tdcdizzy.JPG
|
|
|
Gunner1
|
| posted on 15/10/06 at 11:42 PM |
|
|
Sounds like something is heating up (not engine heat but electrical). My money is on the condenser, ballast resister or coil in that order.
If have electronic ignition and other such works of the devil - Find someone with some diagnostic equipement.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 16/10/06 at 08:27 AM |
|
|
electic fule pump? check it is still pumping (undo a union and catch the petrol in a jar) when igntion is on.
is there a ballast resistor - seems strange the it will fire up but then immediatly dies.
is alternator wired corectly?
|
|
|
talltony
|
| posted on 16/10/06 at 12:39 PM |
|
|
Thanks again everyone. To answer the questions, the engine is a 2.0 running twin 40s and luminition ignition.
Reading the comments placed, I'm going to plump for the timing being out. I thought it was a bit easy to do! I had checked everything in
accordance to the Haynes manual but my mate set the dizzy... Maybe the twit got it the wrong way round.
What is a ballast resistor? And where would I find it?? Sorry for the most basic of basic questions, I'm a total newbie 
Incidently what would happen should the timing belt be too tight? Again I set the tightness as shown in the manual but this is my first time...
Cheers!
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 16/10/06 at 01:29 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by talltony
luminition ignition.
What is a ballast resistor? And where would I find it?? Sorry for the most basic of basic questions, I'm a total newbie
mechanical fule pump or electric?
ballast resistor; this was added in late 60s to sit in between the coil and the battery when engine is running. it is taken out of the circuit when
starting so that coil is connected directly to battery - the engine cranking would lower the battery voltage so the coil and this would compensate
and make it easier to start the engine.
Not seen one myself but it looks like a fat long wire in the ignition circuit.
lumenition hmmmmmm..... you should be using non-ballasted coil;
|
|
|
James
|
| posted on 16/10/06 at 01:56 PM |
|
|
Probably a daft question but isn't it quite likely that if the belt snapped then the valves will have hit the pistons?
Have you had the head off to check this? To check that the valves aren't bent/broken and the piston crowns are ok?
Cheers,
James
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 16/10/06 at 02:08 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by James
Probably a daft question but isn't it quite likely that if the belt snapped then the valves will have hit the pistons?
should be ok on a standard 2.0 pinto
|
|
|
.jpg)
