ekremors1
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 03:51 PM |
|
|
Cooling System
Dear builders,
I am trying to build my car whichs engine is at the rear part of the chasis. (You can see my pictures)
And I nearly finished it.
My question is; radiator is at the front and the engine is at the rear. I connected them with aluminium hoses but not tried yet.
Do you think will they work??
is the water pump enough?
is the level of the radiator is important ?
is the diameter of the aluminium hoses are important?
(My engine is Renault Clio 1.4 cc 8 valves)
I need some advices..
Thank You very much..
 
Rescued attachment CIMG1114-rev-1.JPG
|
|
|
|
|
graememk
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:01 PM |
|
|
run the tubes on the outside where the silencer would normally be.
|
|
|
macnab
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:03 PM |
|
|
larger diameter pipes might help also reduce the effort needed by the pump and the rad height looks fine.
Nice job though quite impressive.
[Edited on 9/2/07 by macnab]
|
|
|
macnab
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:09 PM |
|
|
I might suggest that you put an extra diagonal from the back off the seat (where the roll bar would sit) to the rear as that looks unbraced. A roll
bar with its brace would almost do the same though.
|
|
|
Rudy
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:47 PM |
|
|
I think it will work. However maybe you will have some little problem " to purge " (take air out) it, becouse also clio have this problem.
BTW well done!
Sorry about my English
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 05:05 PM |
|
|
I would run a 1/4" hose or pipe from the top of your rad (either from top hose or have an outlet fitted in the rad) to the expansion bottle.
This should help the rad fill quickly and purge any air. Also run the same from the top of the engine.
|
|
|
Coose
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 05:13 PM |
|
|
The horizontal pipe runs are not really important, but the vertical height that the pump has to push the coolant is (which is known as
'head' .
There shouldn't be a problem with running ali coolant pipes from the rear to the front - the worry would be if you mounted the radiator on top
of a 10ft pole!
Hope his helps.... 
Spin 'er off Well...
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 05:30 PM |
|
|
Practically identical setup to most middies so no real problems there. I used two 32mm ally pipes running centrally in a service tunnel, also housing
gearshift mech, loom and brake & clutch lines.
 
Rescued attachment Rolling Chassis.jpg
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 9/2/07 at 05:36 PM |
|
|
I would angle the rad forward by ~20degrees or so - it allows you a lower profile and improves cooling efficiency.
[Edited on 9-2-07 by RazMan]
 
Rescued attachment Combo Tank 2.jpg
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
ekremors1
|
| posted on 12/2/07 at 06:14 AM |
|
|
Thank you for all replies and recomends,
Also RazMan your car and your welding looks very very good and qualified.
Regards,
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 12/2/07 at 08:04 AM |
|
|
As it is at the moment the system will air lock. the radiator has a pressure cap which is below the level of the top of the cylinder head. Even if you
succeed in fully bleeding all the air out, when the system cools air will be drawn back in through the raddiator cap causing an air lock.
You need to fit an expansion bottle with a pressure cap slightly higher the the highest point in the engine.
Small bore bleed hoses should run to this from points of the system in the engine bay where any air pockets could form.
At the front the radiator cap needs blanked off and some kind of bleed point fitted in the radiator top hose.
It might be less troublsome to ditch the existing raddiator and fit a cross flow radiator which is less likely to air lock and will have bleed
connection already fitted.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 12/2/07 at 10:48 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
I would angle the rad forward by ~20degrees or so - improves cooling efficiency.
how come? yo0u'vre reduced fontal area and force air to take a less direct route fporcing it to change direction? just curious.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 12/2/07 at 11:06 AM |
|
|
Apparently the angle makes cooling more efficient by making a small amount of higher pressure on the front side, hitting the vanes before going
through. I forget where I saw this but a lot of racer boys use this to good effect.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
