smart51
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| posted on 24/3/07 at 05:24 PM |
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Stainless silencer wall thickness
I'm making my own silencer. I've got the ends and the middle, I just need an outer pipe. By happy coincidence, stainles steel flue pipes
are just the right diameter. They are a bit pricey in 1mm wall thickness though. (by pricey I mean probably about right for a market price). There
are 0.5mm wall thickness tubes available for about half the price. Is 0.5mm stainless steel 6" diameter tube going to be strong enough for a
silencer outer tube?
PS. Has anyone got a piece lieing about that they don't need? I want about 840mm /33" . Yes, really.
[Edited on 24-3-2007 by smart51]
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Simon
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| posted on 24/3/07 at 08:07 PM |
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I used 2mm (by 5"dia) on mine as that's all I could find.
I reckon 1mm may be pushing it a bit, but at least it'll be light
ATB
Simon
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 24/3/07 at 09:11 PM |
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My Striker came with a stainless silencer that the previous owner made from flue pipe. It's a very large silencer but works very well (it was
made to race at Combe where noise restriction are very tight).
However, it has got numerous dings in it due to thin wall tube which look a bit unsightly.
[Edited on 24/3/07 by MikeRJ]
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smart51
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| posted on 24/3/07 at 09:20 PM |
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My current silencer has a 1mm wall thickness and it is just fine. I don't know how strong 0.5mm stainless is.
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Chippy
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| posted on 24/3/07 at 10:45 PM |
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Both of my silencers are made from SS flue pipe, I used the .5mm. If you are going to weld it at all, its like trying to weld tissue paper,
("ie" dlooooody difficult), BUT they are fine and have so far stood up OK. They are welded at the engine end, and repackable from the
exhaust end, the only thing that I have done is support them at the place where the end cap is riveted on, as that is quite thick. Were I to do it
again I think I would pay the extra shilling and use the thicker, (1mm), pipe. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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907
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 12:19 AM |
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Hi.
When I used to make cans I used 1mm for the ends and 0.7mm for the body.
It made the welding err, tricky, and IMHO 0.5mm would be too thin.
Paul G
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smart51
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 01:29 PM |
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Thanks Guys. I won't be welding it at all, I'll bolt it on at both ends, like my small MNR silencer. Would it still be a bit thin even
without the welding?
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Chippy
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 10:55 PM |
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If you look at my avatar you will see one of the two silencers, (may also be some in my photo archive), they are .5mm. The main strength is in the
pipe running through the can, so as long as your hangers are some way tied in to that, "ie" round the end caps, then it
"should" be OK, BUT if you can afford the 1mm do so, as the .5mm is very easily dented. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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NS Dev
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 07:15 AM |
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as all the above, mechanically 0.5mm will be fine (but easily damaged by stones) but it will be difficult to use as you can't weld it and
therefore end caps will need to be a perfect fit.......................if you manage it let me know where you find em!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Chippy
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 04:05 PM |
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NS Dev........For well fitting end caps, Milner Offroad, in the links department, tis where mine came from. Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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smart51
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 05:03 PM |
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Mine came from miliner off road too. They are 150mm OD at the inner edge of the flange and a bit narrower at the shoulder. a 6" tube made from
18 gauge (1.22mm) should be a nice snug fit. From 20 gauge there will be a slight gap but the flange of the end plates can be persuaded out a
fraction.
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