David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/4/07 at 08:23 AM |
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Plumbing in an oil cooler and remote filter
I'm starting to think that I need an oil cooler on my x-flow engine (see thread elsewhere). Trouble is, I don't have room to put a
sandwich plate between the pump and the filter, so the filter would have to be put on a remote fixing.
I have absolutely no idea how to lay out the plumbing for an oil cooler and remote filter holder - does anyone have a drawing, or some nice
pictures?
What sort of hose should I use? I don't want to buy fixed-length ready-made hoses as I won't know the length until all the
hardware's installed. Is there a suitable hose that can be bought by the metre?
Finally, where's the best place to put the oil cooler? I don't have much room in front of the radiator, and the car's cooling is
only just sufficient as it is so I don't want to restrict it any more. Is it OK to mount it behind the rad? It would be much easier to fix in
that location.
Any clues gratefully accepted.
David
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02GF74
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| posted on 20/4/07 at 08:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I'm starting to think that I need an oil cooler on my x-flow engine (see thread elsewhere).
I need to see this thread; I'm surprised you have cooling issues but ....
Trouble is, I don't have room to put a sandwich plate between the pump and the filter, so the filter would have to be put on a remote fixing.
I have but then mine (formulate 27) is not the same chassis as yours.
I have absolutely no idea how to lay out the plumbing for an oil cooler and remote filter holder - does anyone have a drawing, or some nice
pictures?
I can answer all those questions and can get phtos/picutres etc. I have attached picture of such as set up in my Land Rover.
What sort of hose should I use?
www.thinkauto.com will have all you will need. You need to decide which type of fitting to use JIC, BSP and so on and whether to go for bling
colour anodised fittings or bzp steel. You may be force to go for the bling fittings since there is a bigger range than in the steel.
Once you have the fittings, you have option to buy crimp on fittings (you need special tool so most likely need to get ThinkAuto to do them but you
must know length! Or screw type with glange or hose tail fittings push in fittings - these supposedly do not need anything extra but for peace of
mine I put on jubolee clip and not had any problems.
I don't want to buy fixed-length ready-made hoses as I won't know the length until all the hardware's installed. Is there a suitable
hose that can be bought by the metre?
yes, you can buy it by the meter; you would want at least 1/2 inch I.D. or for a longer run 5/8 I.D; on my LR, 2.5 l I used 5/8 but 1/2 on my 1300
xflow
Finally, where's the best place to put the oil cooler? I don't have much room in front of the radiator, and the car's cooling is only
just sufficient as it is so I don't want to restrict it any more. Is it OK to mount it behind the rad? It would be much easier to fix in that
location.
obvioulsy as you have guess it is bet to have it where you have a flow of cold air; that usually is same place as for radiator air flow. You can
place in fornt or behihd radiator but it needs to be as close as possible, perhaps using a cowl to ensure the air has no other way to go.
In my '7', I have put cooler on a cross rail that is between footwell and engine support - it was more of a case just getting some extra oil
capacity and some extra cooling - it is not optimal as was not meant to be since I don't envisage cooling problems - one of those too much time
on you hands thngs where you feels you want to do something situations. By fitting an underbody sheet to close off air flow so that imore of it goes
to the cooler would improve it (ideally I need to resite may radiator and have the cooler in the nose cone .... a job for later.
NOTE!!! keep the cooler and remote as low as possible since you don'lt want to be pumping oil up against gravity.
Thinkauto shows how to plumb the cooler but their layout is wrong - this is due to the flow in the remove take off - what they have is cooled oil
going through the filter (I have this in my LR and should really change it).
you should arrange it so that hot oil goes to filter first, then to the cooler and then back to the engine.
Another thing to think about is whether to fit a oil thermostat in the circuit (can be part of the take off) or not. I didn't but do have such a
thing - you tend to accumulate a lot of bits pieces etc.
[Edited on 20/4/07 by 02GF74]
 
Rescued attachment oc.jpg
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02GF74
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| posted on 20/4/07 at 09:02 AM |
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this is how I should have done it,
 
Rescued attachment oc2.jpg
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/4/07 at 09:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
I need to see this thread; I'm surprised you have cooling issues but ....
THREAD LINK
(but I'm still not convinced that overheated oil was the cause - the jury's still out)
Thanks for the drawings - very useful.
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02GF74
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| posted on 20/4/07 at 11:16 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David
Thanks for the drawings - very useful.
not that useful since they do not show oil flow - you need to figure this out from the parts you buy - all you need to know is that oil flows through
the outer circle of holes in the filter and returns via the central bolt hole - then can derive it for the components - there is 50/50 chance of
getting it wrong with unfortunatley catastorphic resutls! 
oh, the take off should match the oil pump thread, (I seem to remember this being 3/4 UNF but can esilyt vcheck) the remote is not so important but a
3/4 UNF spring to mind and this gives you a huge choice of filters from the diddy xflow one right up to the bucket sized v8.
you wil also select a remote so that the oil lines do not cross (makes it neater and takes up less room) - as these are avaialbe in different flow
direction options.
[Edited on 20/4/07 by 02GF74]
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