BenB
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 07:08 PM |
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The book of lies!!!
Just got back from the garage and thought I'd share the experience....
If you ever think about changing the clutch on a ST1100 don't!!
What a PITA!
To change the friction plates you have to remove the clutch nut that's torqued up to 110Nm and is recessed deep within the clutch....
Haynes manual gleefully says you need a special tool or put it in first and lock the brakes (or some dodgey thing made up of two bits of metal and a
bolt).... I did the 1st gear with brakes on approach....
I don't know who last changed the clutch but I think they went past 110Nm to FT!!! Despite the handbrake and brakes I had the rear wheels
turning!!! Bloody hell...
In the end I unbelievably carefully drilled out the nut and split it (without drilling into the clutch centre bolt)....
4 hours upside down straining like a b@stard whilst hoping the car doesn't fall off the axle stands onto me and hoping I hadn't just
drilled through the nut into the clutch bearing....
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DIY Si
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 07:26 PM |
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I had a similar thing with the bird. I was struggling like a right wotsit, but then had an epiphany. Take two clutch plates and a driven plate or two,
drill 3 holes through all of them, bolt together and install. The clutch then holds itself in place with no faffing about.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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smart51
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 07:32 PM |
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Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along
as you undo the nut.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 07:37 PM |
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Easy job with a car engine {light touchpaper and retire} As already said use top gear when undoing/tightening . An decent air wrench helps
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BenB
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 07:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along
as you undo the nut.
Yeh- I wondered why they put first gear- I wondered if a higher gear would be better!!!! As I lay under car swearing and cussing I thought Haynes must
know what they were talking about.... but now I'm not so sure!!! 
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Catpuss
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 08:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BenB
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along
as you undo the nut.
Yeh- I wondered why they put first gear- I wondered if a higher gear would be better!!!! As I lay under car swearing and cussing I thought Haynes must
know what they were talking about.... but now I'm not so sure!!!
Heh, my mate scapped his Scorroco as he couldn't get it to got after a cam belt and head gasket change. Apparently it was due to an error in the
haynes manual which told you to set the timing way out.
The Vaux Ashtra manual doesn't seem to know the difference between a drum and disc brake either and seems to think their diagrams are
interchangable
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JoelP
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 09:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along
as you undo the nut.
first would be better if you were using the engine alone to hold it still, but this is a bit crap anyway for tight stuff. As you say 5th is better if
the wheels and brakes are connected. A little oversite by haynes! 
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gazza285
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| posted on 3/5/07 at 11:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along
as you undo the nut.
first would be better if you were using the engine alone to hold it still, but this is a bit crap anyway for tight stuff. As you say 5th is better if
the wheels and brakes are connected. A little oversite by haynes!
Unless it was written for a motorbike perhaps?
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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smart51
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| posted on 4/5/07 at 07:07 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gazza285
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along
as you undo the nut.
first would be better if you were using the engine alone to hold it still, but this is a bit crap anyway for tight stuff. As you say 5th is better if
the wheels and brakes are connected. A little oversite by haynes!
Unless it was written for a motorbike perhaps?
I think that gears work the same way on 2 wheels as 4. Even if you think shifting through all those gears sequentially is just too much trouble,
you'd still choose 2nd over 1st.
[Edited on 4-5-2007 by smart51]
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gazza285
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| posted on 4/5/07 at 09:51 AM |
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On the bike you can put a piece of stout wood between the wheel and swinging arm, doesn't matter what gear then .
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 5/5/07 at 12:50 PM |
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that sort of nut is always best undone by impact, pref air wrench.
If you try and undo it using the big bar approach it makes it tricky
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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