SALAD
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 04:35 PM |
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Calibra Red Top Question
There is a 1995 Calibra quite close to me, I haven't been to look at it yet, I thought I would ask a few questions on here first.
The guy said it turns over but doesn't run at the mo. It's been sat since the fan-belt snapped and the AA chap couldn't get it
running due to lack of compression.
I'm thinking I should steer clear but, it could be had really cheap and if there was a chance it isn't completely beyond repair, it might
be worth a look........??
Also what are the chances that it is a Coscast head?
What do we think?
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 04:41 PM |
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quote:
Also what are the chances that it is a Coscast head?
50/50 I'd say
quote:
What do we think?
I think you'd be better to wait and get one thats running that way you can hear it first. Plus what's the point of stripping a non runner
only to find a better offer comes up later. Worst case scenario it could cost you a small fortune that'd be better spent on your build
elsewhere.
Unless it's very very cheap of course in which case grab it for spares and flog the rest on the bay. All IMHO of course.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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ned
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 04:52 PM |
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they are a contact engine so likely the valves are bent and you'd need another head or strip and rebuild assuming the pistons are ok. gaskets,
valve stem seals etc etc unless you're modding it anyways it's not worth the hassle imho.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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fesycresy
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 04:54 PM |
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I think it'll have the later german designed head.
I'll try to find a link so you can ID it.
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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SALAD
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 04:57 PM |
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Thanks for that chaps.....the search goes on!
I'm having difficulty finding a whole car within reasonable distance.....oh well
Thanks again.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 04:59 PM |
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Look out for the later sri cavvy's as well some of them are redtops.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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fesycresy
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 05:00 PM |
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Try:
ID 1
ID 2
Got to agree though - not worth the hassle.
Lyn.
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 05:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SALAD
The guy said it turns over but doesn't run at the mo. It's been sat since the fan-belt snapped and the AA chap couldn't get it
running due to lack of compression.
Fan belt or cam belt? Even at quite high mileages lack of compression isn't usualy a problem unles the valves have had intimate relations with
the pistons.
No sure way of telling if it has a Coscast or Kolben Schmidt head without looking. Easiest method is to check for a core plug in the end of the head
(the coscast logo under no.3 exhaust port is almost impossible to see without removing the exhaust manifold). The presence of the core plug shows it
is a Kolben Schmidt (i.e. non-coscast).
[Edited on 20/6/07 by MikeRJ]
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SALAD
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 05:27 PM |
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Thanks for the identification info, I've done the research into finding out what is what, I was just wondering if it was likely to be dead. He
said fan belt but he could have made a mistake.
I also phoned up about a few SRi's but they weren't XE's.
I think I'll steer clear of that one then.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 05:48 PM |
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unlikely to be coscast on a 1995, and plus if its 1995 it will have the later belt system, pulleys, water pump and flywheel which you really will need
to change to the earlier setup. These changed in 1994 (poss late 1993, ask for the changeover engine number at your local parts place by asking for a
water pump, there will be two, with an engine number for the changover date in the parts book)
You want to look out for a complete running 1990 to 1993 astra, cavalier or calibra, possibly an MOT fail but not necessarily, and aim to pay around
£250 to £350 for it, bearing in mind you can get £70 for the gearbox, £35 for a pair of driveshafts in good nick, £40-£50 for all the lights, bumpers
etc and £70 for weighing it in as scrap afterwards filled with all your garage crap.
Test drive the car and rev it hard with the throttle linkage under the bonnet and the rad header tank cap off, to see if it pushes water out, walk
away if it does, and look for oil in the water.
look at the gearbox end of the head in the car, just above the heater pipe that comes out there. if there is a small core plug and no casting rib
there, its KS, if there is no core plug and a big casting rib there, its coscast.
PS coscast also go porous, just much less common!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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the_fbi
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| posted on 20/6/07 at 10:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
plus if its 1995 it will have the later belt system, pulleys, water pump and flywheel which you really will need to change to the earlier
setup.
Hm... Wouldn't normally disagree with you on XE stuff, but I will on that.
Nothing wrong with the later tensioners, just make sure you get the redesigned ones which won't fail.
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
if there is a small core plug and no casting rib there, its KS, if there is no core plug and a big casting rib there, its coscast.
Then there's the option of a very rare early 13mm valve guide coscast which has different casting marks again.
With regards to seeing the coscast "branding", mobile phone camera works a treat 
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NS Dev
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| posted on 21/6/07 at 07:00 AM |
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it was really the flywheel that I was referring to, as the later ones have the monstrous "pot type" thing that weighs about three
tonnes.
also, the early type tensioner rollers are miles stronger than even the revised later plastic ones.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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