bob tatt
|
 posted on 20/7/07 at 11:41 AM |
|
|
fireblade engine compatability
new on hear so first off hello
anyway recently bought a indy with fireblade engine which i love only one slight problem whilst out last night hit a breeze block which fell off a
wagon literally , big hole in sump engine seized in about five seconds oil flames the whole nine yards ( wish id been behind to watch and not sat
there ) so the upshot is i need a new engine only one problem a little unsure of compatability of engines mine was a ninety six. after as easy a
change as possible dont want to rewire car or mess about to much so any help or advice would be much appreciated thanks in advance . im off back to my
cave now to sulk and feel sorry for my self.
|
|
|
|
|
bigrich
|
| posted on 20/7/07 at 11:48 AM |
|
|
i would just source a 918 engine from 96 to 99 model year blade and fit it in
they can be had for a reasonable cost these days
[Edited on 20/7/07 by bigrich]
.JPG)
A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
|
|
|
maximill666
|
| posted on 20/7/07 at 11:56 AM |
|
|
If your engine is a from a 1996 model blade then you will have the 918cc unit & these were not produced until 1996, fitted to fireblades between
96-99 RRT,RRV,RRW,RRX.
A motor from any of these models will be a direct replacement.
Just make sure its the 918cc unit, this is on the engine casing.
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 20/7/07 at 11:56 AM |
|
|
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Did you get the reg number of the wagon that dropped the breeze block?
Phil
|
|
|
bob tatt
|
| posted on 20/7/07 at 11:59 AM |
|
|
no time just some smelly builders wagon reported it to police not in the slightest bothered thanks for all your help so far cheers rob
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 20/7/07 at 03:43 PM |
|
|
893 and 918 blades share the same mountings, later a different.
As above look above the clutch bulge and a little machined plate has the cc's stamped on it
Regards Mark
|
|
|
bob tatt
|
| posted on 20/7/07 at 07:16 PM |
|
|
some luck at last managed to find a engine for sensible money and only about 5 miles from where i live picking it up in the morning so thats this
weekend sorted stripping the old one out tonight might upgrade to samco silicone hoses at the same time anyone know best place to get them from after
lenghts rather than prebent pieces. once again thanks for all the help cleared up some confusion about the engines for me..
|
|
|
Gixer Indy
|
| posted on 20/7/07 at 08:16 PM |
|
|
Probably too late,but was talking to Andy Bates from AB Performance today,he can supply hoses as good as/ better than Samco,for less money!!  give
him a call on 01449736633
Hope you've got it sorted
Flat out til you see God, then BRAKE!
|
|
|
bob tatt
|
| posted on 21/7/07 at 05:18 PM |
|
|
cheers for the number got the old engine out in less than an hour, these bike engines are so much easier to work with than cars. any way the sump plug
is totaly missing along with one big hole in the front of the sump. just got to swap the clutch and springs over and the gear linkage give it a bit of
a clean then put it all back together think i will take this opportunity to swap all the engine hoses i noticed when i removed the prop shaft there
was a lot of play between that and the spline from the gear box. there was a vibration at about eighty so im thinking this could be it. ill keep you
all posted on the progress and once again cheers for all the help.
|
|
|
bob tatt
|
| posted on 23/7/07 at 07:57 PM |
|
|
bumped this as i still need to clear up about the vibration and conection to the out put from gear box any help would be great as i dont want to take
the engine out again. tha main drive shaft has an adjustable spline on the shaft this then goes onto the gearbox output are there different splines
mine is a 96 rrt engine with what i assume is a mk supplied drive shaft. how do i measure the spline to order a better fitting one cheers rob
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 24/7/07 at 12:42 PM |
|
|
I suspect you're missing a spacer / shim that goes behind the prop flange adapter to make it a tight fit on the output shaft splines. The prop
adapter should be clamped tight onto the splined shaft, not allowed to move fore-aft along the splines.
If you can't get one from MK then anywhere with a lathe should be able to make you one up very easily, you just need to ensure the shim is
slightly thicker than the amount of movement you have, so when doing up the central retaining bolt, it clamps against the flange adapter before it
bottoms out and tightens against the output shaft.
As an irrelevent aside, a lot of people say the 96-99 engine is 918cc for some reason but Im sure on the side of the blocks of all mine it said 919cc!
One extra cc is important you know
Chris
|
|
|
bob tatt
|
| posted on 24/7/07 at 07:34 PM |
|
|
both of the engines i now have sat in my garage have 919cc on them too makes all the difference i feel cheers for the advice. should be back on the
road by this weekend complete with new sump guard hopefully if the brither in law manages to make it in his lunch hour that is
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 24/7/07 at 08:28 PM |
|
|
Get the sump plug re-positioned onto the side of the sump before you put it back on the road, that way you gain about 1/2" in ground clearance
and the plug isnt the first thing to be hit when you ground out, something that often breaks the sump itself as the bolt is stronger than the casting
so it splits it open when whacked, as happened to a CBR1000F engine coming off the ferry when we went to Le Mans a couple of years ago.
|
|
|
bob tatt
|
| posted on 24/7/07 at 08:48 PM |
|
|
wise words shall get the soon tobe very busy brother in law in the case once again.
|
|
|
Avoneer
|
| posted on 24/7/07 at 10:32 PM |
|
|
Glad to hear you got it sorted Rob.
You still messing with pipes after the last car and all those water leaks on the way to Ackworth!
Will never forget that ;-)
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
|
|
|
%20(WinCE).JPG)
