Big Daz
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 11:33 AM |
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Upgrading Brakes on Cortina Uprights
We currently have std solid discs on Cortina uprights with std calipers,
Does anyone know what vented (if any) discs fit these & what calipers would be needed?
Cheers 
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graememk
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 11:37 AM |
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cortina 1.5ton ish
7 kit 1/2 ton ish
upgraded brakes imho not needed, i struggle to even get mine warm.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 11:43 AM |
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A popular upgrade is to use better pads, e.g. Mintex 1144 - more braking when cold, reduced fade, etc.
It's what I plan to do fairly soon.
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Big Daz
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 12:29 PM |
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Hmmm,
Thing is ours is an out & out track car. I worry that after 6 or 7 laps they will start to fade badly. We intend to go up against some fairly
powerfull machinery - 400 hp Scoobs & Evos with BIG brakes and we need to make the most of our advantage under braking into corners. 
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 12:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by graememk
cortina 1.5ton ish
7 kit 1/2 ton ish
upgraded brakes imho not needed, i struggle to even get mine warm.
I'm still not convinced about this 'anything other than solid discs is overbraked' debate.
Granted my car isn't on the road yet, but I'm going vented.
A Lotus elise has vented front and rear discs, and is a relatively lightweight car.
Also such as the caparo T1 which can be registered for the road ( ) has 300mm or 330mm discs and again probably only weigh's similar to a 7.
I will wait to find out when my car is on the road to see if my car is overbraked or locks up too easily. One strong arguement is that vented are
heavier than solid so could be a disadvantage with unsprung weight.
What do caterham, westfield and donkervoort use?
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JAG
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 12:38 PM |
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Bigger brakes won't help you stop quicker - it's all bullshit. The Cortina brakes/discs probably won't get hot enough to fade.
Also; you have no advantage under braking against an EVO or Subaru - you'll only manage 1 - 1.2g at best and they can easily match you. Light
weight makes no difference to overall ability to slow down.
If you really want to outbrake them fit slick tyres and get some aerodynamic trickery onboard.
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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vinny1275
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 12:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Big Daz
Hmmm,
Thing is ours is an out & out track car. I worry that after 6 or 7 laps they will start to fade badly. We intend to go up against some fairly
powerfull machinery - 400 hp Scoobs & Evos with BIG brakes and we need to make the most of our advantage under braking into corners.
I've not been to a trackday yet where they allow overtaking under braking into the corners. Most of them also insist that if you drive something
like an evo or scoobie that if you're about to get overtaken by something like a 7 that they don't wait until the next straight and then
put your foot down, but back off slightly and let the faster, less powerful car through. You shouldn't have too many problems getting past them.
I'd be inclined to run the brakes as they are and see how they get on. As graememk said, a 7 weighs half (or less) the weight of the original
car. They'll probably be OK with a set of fast-road pads...
Cheers
(and good luck sccobie-duelling),
Vince
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Big Daz
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 01:16 PM |
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Mintex MGB633? Is this the pad for std cortina calipers & discs?
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BenB
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 01:21 PM |
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I'd worry more about brakes being too cool rather than too hot. Pads are much more important than disc type.
Don't forget the front discs at least are hanging out in the breeze getting shed loads of cooling air blasting all over them (unlike in an Elise
for example).....
Pad type is much more important. Go too conservative and they'll fry after a few laps. Go too radical and they'll just be up to
temperature as you slide through the gravel trap 
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procomp
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 01:28 PM |
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Hi the std cortina brakes and uprated pads are more than up to the job of working on a seven type car with 200+ bhp. FACT no BS
The fact that they are heavy and get replaced by lighter items is another thing alltogeter.
Also i think that many people dont realy understand the concept of driving a seven quickly around a circuit.
For instance a 90bhp locost only uses the brakes for tight and hairpin corners the rest of the time they are only dabbed 3-4 times per lap.
A kit ar with up to 200bhp uses the brakes a bit harder than the locost at the end of the straights due to higher speed. But still only needs the
brakes dabbed 3-4 times per lap.
The fact is that with a well setup seven type car/any kitcar is that the speeds carried around corners is verry high compared to most salloon cars (
unless pure race salloons ) meaning that the brakes are used far less that you might expect and as said above the main problem when racing a kitcar is
finding a pad that will work from cold to a warm temp range. This is why so many people have problems with brakes on kitcars the pads they are using
are for a much higher temp range more suited to a salloon.
The other thing to consider is your pedal box desighn. As an awful lot of the kit manufacturers harp on about the fact that it's got a bias
setup but dont mention that it has the wrong pedal ratios and gives bugger all feed back when using it. Or that they have suplied the wrong size
cyl's for the job.
Sorry that turned in to a bit af a rant rather than being informative .
cheers matt
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Big Daz
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 01:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by procomp
The fact is that with a well setup seven type car/any kitcar is that the speeds carried around corners is verry high compared to most salloon cars (
unless pure race salloons ) meaning that the brakes are used far less that you might expect temp range more suited to a salloon.
The other thing to consider is your pedal box design. As an awful lot of the kit manufacturers harp on about the fact that it's got a bias setup
but dont mention that it has the wrong pedal ratios and gives bugger all feed back when using it. Or that they have suplied the wrong size cyl's
for the job.
cheers matt
Ok, thats what I was on about - described better  More speed into a corner than a performance car = faster out.... I presume the fact we are miles
lower C of G wont go amiss either. Dunno about pedal box & cylinder size. A bit more investigation needed there i think
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short track 123
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 02:11 PM |
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Can you lock the brake with the set up you have now?
The rest is down to feel, fade I suppose.....
I have seen someone using R1 Rear Bike discs on a 7 type car and he has no problems ( and its a track only car )
Jason
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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higgsti
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 04:10 PM |
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the standard m16 calipers as fitted to a sierra and fitted to cortina uprights is designed to stop a car of about 1300/1500kgs on solid discs carrying
a 4 adults and the same car used for towing so im sure it will stop a sub 750kg locost .as stated by others pads do make a difference ive found mintex
1144s to be good allround pad for road and heavy track and never had brake fade or overheating .on my new car i have 4 pot billet calipers the olny
advantage being weight previous cars have allways had m16s.vented discs are not needed and add around 2kgs to unsprung weight .and as also stated
tyres used makes a big difference
[Edited on 2/8/07 by higgsti]
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robinj66
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| posted on 2/8/07 at 05:24 PM |
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Without getting into the question of whether it is necessary or not - I replaced the standard Cortina bits with Princess 4 pot calipers (inc a
suitable spacer) and Capri vented etc discs. They fit straight onto the Cortina uprights once the backplates have been removed.
Still got the standard road pads in at the moment but I do have Green Stuff replacements ready.
Braking is certainly smooth and effortless now (on a Cobra, so slightly heavier than a seven)
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