graememk
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| posted on 31/8/07 at 05:11 PM |
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fitting a turbo bleed valve
can anyone shed some light into fitting this ?
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worX
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| posted on 31/8/07 at 06:41 PM |
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could try this for now Graeme?
http://www.rtec.ch/turbo_basics.html
Steve
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Davey D
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| posted on 31/8/07 at 07:07 PM |
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you will have a pipe that goes from your intake plenum, or intake pipework to the actuator. all you need to do is fit the bleed valve in that line.
there will probarbly be specific in / out connectors on the bleed valve, so make sure you plumb it in the correct way round 
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the_fbi
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| posted on 31/8/07 at 09:14 PM |
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Bleed valve is a good way to kill a turbo. What you want is an MBC (Manual Boost Controller).
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graememk
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| posted on 31/8/07 at 09:41 PM |
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looks like i have a mbc anyway......
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RazMan
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| posted on 1/9/07 at 09:44 AM |
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All I would say is ..... be careful. If you get it wrong then boost levels go sky high with inevitable results.
A proper boost controller is the only way imo.
[Edited on 1-9-07 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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repper
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| posted on 1/9/07 at 10:11 AM |
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the managment you are running plarys a big part i fitted one to my zafira GSI but it dint make any dirance as the ECU tuck offer as soon as it sore
the bosst rizing
some times it esear to a just the was gate i did that to my s1sr turbo as it cepet over bosting with a blead valve on
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carpmart
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| posted on 1/9/07 at 06:23 PM |
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OK - If you want to use one of these you need to buy a turbosmart valve. This works on a similar principle to boost valves but is much more reliable
and consistent. It doesn't bleed the plenum to actuator feed it holds it until the dialed in boost level is reached. This 100% eliminates any
wastegate creep and bounce and means you can use a low rated actuator with higher boost.
I have been using this for two years on my pinto turbo and I have one click setting to move from 8psi to 11psi held. I know some of the boys on
turbosport are using them up to 2 bar plus so they are very versatile. Just be disciplined and don't go too mad. I checked mine with a RR
session to check I wasn't leaning out.
Can't recommend them highly enough!
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack 
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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the_fbi
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| posted on 1/9/07 at 10:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by carpmart
OK - If you want to use one of these you need to buy a turbosmart valve. This works on a similar principle to boost valves but is much more reliable
and consistent. It doesn't bleed the plenum to actuator feed it holds it until the dialed in boost level is reached. This 100% eliminates any
wastegate creep and bounce and means you can use a low rated actuator with higher boost.
I have been using this for two years on my pinto turbo and I have one click setting to move from 8psi to 11psi held. I know some of the boys on
turbosport are using them up to 2 bar plus so they are very versatile. Just be disciplined and don't go too mad. I checked mine with a RR
session to check I wasn't leaning out.
Can't recommend them highly enough!
Otherwise known as an MBC
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 2/9/07 at 09:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by the_fbi
Otherwise known as an MBC
Also known as: PRV (pressure release valve), Dawes device, Grainger valve, G-valve and probably a few others as well!
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 07:51 AM |
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greddy profec B (the early one) was the best Ive ever used. In car adjustment and dual boost levels.
the later ones were mad tho, need an ALevel to set them up.
definately get a boost gauge if you dont have one.
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