jabbahutt
|
 posted on 3/9/07 at 09:15 PM |
|
|
leaking sump
Evening
fired up the Pinto engine for the first time yesterday and the feeling was superb. Checked the drip trays under the engine tonight and I have an oil
leak
It appears to be the sump gasket at the front right hand corner as the edge of the gasket is damp with oil. I only tightened the bolt as per the
Haynes
don't really fancy dropping the sump and qould rather not have an oil leak even though it doesn't seem a big one.
If there anything I can apply to the outside that would stop the leak in case it gets any worse?
I was thinking of applying some hylomar blue gasket to the outside but the the gasket already having oil on it wasn't sure if it would work.
Anyt advice as usual greatly received.
|
|
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:41 PM |
|
|
Don't all car engines come with an oil leak?
Seriously - we used some gasket sealer that is like VERY THICK black treacle... apparently it's very expensive but I cadged some from a
traditional mechanic in Manchester for nowt... don't even know what they call it, but he said it never set and was the best stuff he'd
ever used.
Steve
|
|
|
Paradoxia0
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 10:41 PM |
|
|
I was recommended using silicone sealant for my V8 by 2 very reputable companies! It worked a treat stopping my drips  I know the V8 has a low
internal pressure not sure if that would make a difference with the pinto?
There is no replacement for displacement...
|
|
|
ditchlewis
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 07:35 AM |
|
|
Snap
mine leaks to
i just keep an eye on the oil level as i have yet to find the location of the leak. its only a small leak.
ditch
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 08:39 AM |
|
|
there should be no need for sealants if gasket is fitted. *
Usual cause of leaks is the sump lip becoming distorted as the bolts are done up tighter to fix leaks.
You can try bodging or do it properly by removing the sump then dressing hte lip to ensure it is level and flat - you should only need to do it once,
then fit gasket - a bit of bostik to hold it in place and do up bolts as per haynes.
* I believe the most recent Land Rovers do not use gaskets but some sort of special liquid gasket stufff; note that the sumps are cast aluminium which
is a lot stiffer than the pressed steel you have so this gasket stuff may not work for you.
If you are keen on bodging, look in Frost catalogue - they sell some stuff like a prit stick that supposedly you wipe on the crevice to stop leaks.
|
|
|
bimbleuk
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 09:06 AM |
|
|
As above the typical tin sumps can get distorted when they are removed. I use Toyota engines a lot and they usually don't have a gasket fitted
and to make it worse theres often a windage plate fitted between the sump pan and block.
I've used the more expensive liquid gasket which dissolves in oil but unless you have a perfect seal it won't go off properly. So I use
silicone RTV but you do run the risk of bits breaking off in the sump and clogging the oil pickup.
So from what I've learnt cast ally sumps are better (assuming the flange is well machined) and gaskets are more likely to get a good seal. Plus
they're a lot easier to fit!
I have stopped a leak recently by simply applying Silicone to the outside but I may have been lucky on that occasion.
|
|
|
iscmatt
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 09:56 AM |
|
|
When my pinto first started it leaked small amounts everyday, but now the leak has stopped with no change done to the sump, almost like at has
settlled in.
Oh and yes there is oil still the sump, it hasn't ALL leaked out!! I still check before nearly every drive.
|
|
|
