simonk
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 07:49 PM |
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Oil Pressure Sender on RV8
Hi All
Is there already a place on the RV8 for an oil pressure sender ?? I can see the oil pressure switch on the oil pump body, but also have an oil
pressure sender with an adapter in my instrument pack - it was sold as set up for a RV8. Any ideas where the sender goes please ??
Thanks
Simon
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 07:57 PM |
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Usually on a 'T' piece on the same hole as the sender.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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robinj66
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 08:37 PM |
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I think it will depend on the type of front (timing) cover you have fitted. Mine is an SD1 engine and has a standard oil pressure switch fitted and a
second port (yellow cap) for the oil pressure sender
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ed_crouch
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 08:58 PM |
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second that. Mine has both the switch and the sender screwed into the pump base plate.
Which, incidentally, is a pile of poo.
If youre fitting the RV8 into a 7, you're more than likely going to discover that the oil filter fouls the chassis.
Do yourself a favour and buy either a Mocal or Flowtech pump base. The standard one is OK until it starts to wear, and then the pressure relief valve
can stick. OPEN. Zip oil pressure.
The mocal/flowtech pump bases mean that you mount the oil filter remotely, in a more convenient place, and theyre a much better designed pump base to
boot.
You could just buy a sandwich plate, but you'd still have the rubish relief valve.
I have the sandwich plate setup on my TVR, and it takes 3 seconds for the oil light to go out in the morning. Not great.
The only issue with the mocal/flowtech units is that on a cross-bolt block (late 4.6 blocks), they can foul on one of the crossbolts. The fix is to
have that particular bolt recess counterbored naother few mil by a machineshop. PITA though.
Blimey, ive carped on again...
Sorry, but hopefully that is a little helpful...
Ed.
P.S. you might hear about a tadpole valve mod to the original pump base. These do solve the problem for a while (i.e. give a short-term solution to an
already worn base), but Ive heard reports of wrekced engines when these too stick open. 6KRPM round Donnington, and the light comes on?? Oww.
P.P.S. Flowtech is available from RPi, Mocal from www.thinkauto.co.uk. Merlin motorsport, Twemon Deeks, Raldes (IIRC) and others. Sadly, theyre about
100 notes.
[Edited on 21/9/07 by ed_crouch]
I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!
Hurrah.
www.wings-and-wheels.net
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robinj66
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| posted on 22/9/07 at 07:48 AM |
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Ed
There is an uprated oil pressure relief valve which I have fitted - seems to be working quite well.
I have also fitted a remote oil filter
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ed_crouch
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| posted on 22/9/07 at 11:42 AM |
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Hi. The uprated valves normally consist of a new piston and a stronger spring. The problem is normally scoring of the valve bore and also the piston.
Mine's got it, and is fine for now, but I need to get one of the above setups, as theyre a much better solution.
The major problem Mine has is that the oil filter is upside down on the inner wing, and although its got an antidrainback valve (Fram PH2821a), the
wear in the pressure relief valve means that the pressure side of the oil system tends to drain down when left overnight. That means that when started
from cold, it takes a few seconds for the oil light to go out. Never more than about 3, but it still shouldnt do that!
The other upgrade you can do is the Tadpole valve, which works for some people, but some have reported problems.
I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!
Hurrah.
www.wings-and-wheels.net
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