sgraber
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 01:52 AM |
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Oil leak in remote filter housing
I just discovered that the oil feed bung that I drilled and tapped into the side of my pot aluminum remote oil filter housing is leaking badly from
the threads and has stripped. The steel bung has threads on both ends, one side threads into the housing (now stripped), the other side accepts the
threaded oil supply pipe and feeds the top of the turbo. It's a steel line actually, not a flex hose, and I am certain that the torque of the
engine at full chat (turbo/redline) stressed the connection into the remote filter housing causing it to fail. It will be replaced with steel braided
hose.
This leaves me with the scenario of either shelling out the cash for a new remote filter housing to re drill/tap, or attempting to repair the bungled
unit to accept the bung again.
So the question is:
What options do I have to affix a steel bung into a stripped pot aluminum housing in a permanent fashion? Fill that hole with epoxy and make a new
hole? TIG weld it shut and re drill-tap? Buy a new remote housing and start over?
Thank for your advice.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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UncleFista
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 01:57 AM |
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Helicoil ? Or is it some strange thread ?
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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dave r
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 05:59 AM |
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belzona
(that may be spelt wrong)
fantastic stuff if you can get it clean enough, and dont want to take it apart later
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 07:30 AM |
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Re-tap to accept adapter of larger size? Not sure a helicoil would seal depends on where the oil seal is?
Dan
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BenB
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 09:14 AM |
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Technoweld (or any of the similar stick friction brazing methods) would work. You'ld need to clean the thread ++ first (cotton buds dipped in
thinners works for me) and it taps very nicely... Obviously if the remote filter housing has any rubber parts you'll need to remove them or
you'll toast them with the blowtorch and it might smoke a tad if it's covered in oil 
ps. What exactly are cotton buds sold for? Some packets now even have a warning not to put them into ears (advice which everyone ignores of
course!!)... So why sell them?? Not that I'd recommend putting them near an ear canal of course- I've seen too many people who've
spanked them into (and sometimes even through) their ear drum  Maybe they're so that small rodents can have Gladiator style competitions...
Awooonga!!
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BenB
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 09:16 AM |
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http://www.technoweld-fusion.com/english/productinfo.htm
gives more info.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 10:06 AM |
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Get a bigger steel bolt, stick in a vice and tap and drill the inside of this to suit you hose then.....
Drill out and tap the tank to accept this internally threaded bolt, then bolt in with some epoxy/instant metal etc, something to make this
permanent.
When cured, cut the top off flush to the tank edge, you now have a threaded steel insert thats not going anywhere.
Regards Mark
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tks
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 12:08 PM |
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first question should be wich size of thread is it what you need and do you have/can you buy that male tool...
i would laser/jet cut a piece of alloy/stainless/steel 15mm thick. and just redrill/retap the thread in it. and weld that plate to the base of the
filter/unit.
if you make some pics of what the problem is then its also easyer to give a better/usefull answer.
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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sgraber
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 04:50 PM |
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Here's the beastie:
I think an epoxy that is resistant to oil will work. I've been told that certain variants of JB Weld (epoxy) don't care for oil.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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tks
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 05:00 PM |
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mhhh
dunno the material bit woudn't it be easyer to just weld on a NUT of the needed thread?
it would work for sure and for ever 
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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sgraber
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 05:11 PM |
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After talking with a local chap about the problem; someone with a lot of experience in race engines, I believe re-drilling larger and tapping it to
accept a steel braided hose with male threaded end will resolve everything in the most simple and durable fashion.
The turbo oil inlet has a restrictor inline so the size of the feed line is not important. Just that it doesn't leak. That IS important!
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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tks
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| posted on 9/10/07 at 05:21 PM |
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ok if its solid that is abvious the most easy solution.
just clean it good after the drilling / tapping..
but you will know that...
TKs
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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thomas4age
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| posted on 10/10/07 at 04:52 AM |
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material of the housing could be to thin to put thread in.
Braze-solder (technoweld durafix) a piece of alloy to the housing and tap new thread in there, easy as chips and you only need a file and a propane
burner,
very strong and tap/die friendly stuff.
Grtz Thomas
[Edited on 10/10/07 by thomas4age]
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 10/10/07 at 01:45 PM |
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Get a BSP Tapered or NPT Thread tap and tap it and use a appropriated sized fitting and cap it off.
NB Tapered thread.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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sgraber
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| posted on 10/10/07 at 03:47 PM |
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Tapered thread NPT is a good idea and brazing some additional material is spot on. I was thinking about using an o-ring, but the tapered thread with
some teflon tape should be just what the doc ordered.
Thanks.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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