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Author: Subject: R1 carbs on to pinto
vinnievector

posted on 21/11/07 at 01:59 PM Reply With Quote
R1 carbs on to pinto

Hi to all ,new to the site ,need some avise on any dos and donts as to fitting and tuning pinto engine with R1 carbs will be useing bogg bros manifold ,and bosh electronic disrb,fr 31 kent camb .
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mookaloid

posted on 21/11/07 at 02:12 PM Reply With Quote
Are you asking how to tune a pinto engine or how to fit R1 Carbs?

Just had a look at your photos and noticed that the lock nuts on the top ball joints on the front suspension are in the wrong place - they should be between the ball joint and the wishbone not on the ends of the threads.

Welcome to the site by the way

Cheers

Mark





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Duncan_P

posted on 21/11/07 at 02:43 PM Reply With Quote
Hi, sorry can be of much help with the carbs... im trying to get my gsxr throttle bodies to fit my zetec at the moment.

Have to say that you pics freaked me out for a minute, your garage is pretty much identical to mine. My neighbor even has a very similar car in the same colour......I had to look at the Indy to make sure that it wasnt mine

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snapper

posted on 21/11/07 at 03:44 PM Reply With Quote
I have GSXR carbs on a pinto with homemade straight manifold but the general principles apply.
Carbs are very sensitive to fuel pressure and a Malpassi filter king regulator or similar should be fitted and the pressure set to some where between 1.5 and 2.5 psi.
Throttle cable if fitted to the standard accelerator position could be very "On Off" many people move the cable connection lower down the pedal to increase the feel.
A rolling road session to get the carbs tuned to your engine is well worth £250 or so.
Tuning the Pinto.... how much do you want to spend???
Easy mod is to fit the Injection head with a bit of carefull porting and some fancy 3 angle valve seats plus skim head to increase compression ratio or just use a head gasket that crushes thinner than standard. That will gain about 0.5 increase in compression.

For SVA they want to see at least a couple of threads showing above the locknuts.

[Edited on 21/11/07 by snapper]





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DarrenW

posted on 21/11/07 at 04:19 PM Reply With Quote
Ive fitted ZZR1100 carbs onto pinto with Boggs manifold. Boggs advised initial settings and then rolling roaded once i got it all running.

I used megajolt but std electronic dizzy will work well.

Fuel pump from 1 litre bike fitted near to tank - low down.

Throttle cable came as a kit from Mac#1 and works well.

ive used K&N challenger filter which again works well.

I didnt need any regulator for fuel with my set up.

Didnt fit choke cable but could do with one - however lifting bonnet to actuate choke lever is easy enough and once its been running is fine for a day.

Also fitted catch tank.

Do you have an specific questions? My set up achieved 115bhp at back wheels and feels great. Head is diy ported, cam is FR32 (not the best choice).






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snapper

posted on 21/11/07 at 04:41 PM Reply With Quote
The FR31 may be a bit mild for such a light car, FR32 or 285 duration is a lot better and my set up gives 130bhp at the flywheel. You can go with a bit more duration on the pinto in a light car just depends how you want to drive it.
The head modifications count for a lot on the Pinto but after 150bhp you need to have the whole block, head, carbs, manifolds, package working as one.
There is no cheap and easy route to power.





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mcerd1

posted on 21/11/07 at 05:06 PM Reply With Quote
I've 'still' not finished re-building my pinto yet

I'm building it with ZX9R carb's (from bogg bros), a ZX9R fuel pump, foam air filter and megajolt ignition

I was advised to get the bike fuel pump to avoid fuel pressure problems (they are quite cheap on ebay)

and the megajolt should perform a bit better than the dizzy

and once its on the road I'll take a drive down to yorksire for a day on the rollers



as for what you can do when tunning a pinto..........................


this is what I've done/ I'm doing:

the head is a standard injection one with no porting and standard valves, but does have 3 angle valve seats and bronze valve guides
its also been skimmed to bring the CR up to about 11-11.5 to 1 (haven't measured it accuratly yet)
Its getting a piper 285 cam (similar to FR32 I think, I'd need to check to make sure)

the bottom end I've had bored out to fit 93mm pistons (2090cc)

Then I got carried away and got forged pistons, cossie crank, cossie conrods (and then a steel flywheel and cossie oil pump/pickup pipe/spray bar to make that all work)
this means that the bottom end can now handle 8000 to 9000 rpm perfect for a future swap to a cossie head

[Edited on 21/11/07 by mcerd1]

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vinnievector

posted on 22/11/07 at 04:00 PM Reply With Quote
thanks for the advise boys ,sorry for the not so instant reply ,work nights .
thanks for the sharp eyes mookiloid on the top wishbones these where put there as temp measure whilst i had to move my car from one location to another ,they are now fitted correctly and drilled and wirelocked Rescued attachment Picture 223.jpg
Rescued attachment Picture 223.jpg

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