emsfactory
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| posted on 8/12/07 at 05:38 PM |
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Preparing for megajolt.
Hi all,
I am going to try and spend next week getting my megajolt installed.
Its for a 1600cc crossflow. I have been having a read up on removing the crankshaft pulley but I haven't found anything about locating it.
I know if has a mark on it for timing. Does it have to be put back on in a certain way?
Do I need to make any marks or anything on the wheel before I remove it.
I dont want to pull it off and find I should have marked a point etc.
Also, any one got any pics of a fitted vr bracket,just looking for inspiration.
Thanks.
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dave-69isit
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| posted on 8/12/07 at 06:00 PM |
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crank senser
from paulf arcives
 
Rescued attachment xflow_toothed_wheel.jpg
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 8/12/07 at 06:00 PM |
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Don't worry about the crankshaft pulley - it's keyed so will only go back one way.
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emsfactory
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| posted on 8/12/07 at 06:37 PM |
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Brilliant,
thats Monday sorted then.
That picture is similar to the only other pic I have seen. Probably a reasonable way to go then.
Cheers chaps.
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paulf
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| posted on 8/12/07 at 07:11 PM |
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That ones not actually from my archives as far as i can remember, but is how to do it.Just make the bracket as stiff as possible and try to make the
sensor position slightly adjustable for setting up.
Remember that with the engine at TDC the crank sensor and missing tooth need to be 90 degrees before tdc so would for example be at 9 oclock or any
position to give the equivalent setting.
Paul.
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lotustwincam
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| posted on 8/12/07 at 10:40 PM |
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Here's a photo of our bracket before fitting. Mounts in a similar position to Dave-69isit, picking up existing timing chain cover bolts.
Something to be aware is if you fit the sensor in this position, you'll need to remove it if you have to change the fan belt.
Alternatively you could make a bracket to mount it in the 2 o'clock position. but it will mean having longer stand-offs probably leading to a
greater likelyhood of vibration.
 
Description
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emsfactory
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| posted on 12/12/07 at 05:19 PM |
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Well, got the bracket made up.
It adjust on the bottom bolt and pivots on the top.
The longest part was making the spacer for the wheel!
 
Rescued attachment PICT0062.JPG
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emsfactory
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| posted on 12/12/07 at 05:19 PM |
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spacer
 
Rescued attachment PICT0063.JPG
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 12/12/07 at 07:20 PM |
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Just remember that the end of the VR sensor should be around 1mm from the wheel, 1.5mm max.
Turn the engine over by hand the first time, to make sure that the sensor doesn't contact the wheel! 
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emsfactory
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| posted on 13/12/07 at 12:15 AM |
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The wheel turns with no contact.
I can get it closer than 1mm, I just pivot the full bracket round.
It should be OK.
There is no movement in the bracket although the sensor itself can move a little!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 13/12/07 at 08:57 AM |
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Looking at the MJ forum, any tendency for the sensor to vibrate can result in odd effects - e.g. misfiring at a particular rpm (somewhere between 3000
- 4000 rpm usually).
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Jenko
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| posted on 13/12/07 at 09:17 AM |
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And heres mine on a CVH engine......
Click
Nice thing ablt this set up is it's easy to adjust for both in / out and forward and back - but I second the comment about needing the bracket
to be rock solid!....
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.jpg)
