Loco_Bill
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 10:34 PM |
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Easiest Bike Engine Set Up
Hi guys,
I've been searching on here for quite a while now, trying to soak in all the (useful)information on what engine to go for. I have decided I
definitely wanna go for the bike engine route. I'm building a haynes roadster (new book) and just finished welding the chassis.
Now i'm a bit new to bike engnes (never ridden one) and was wondering what you think the best engine to fit - bearing in mind i'd like it
as hassle free as possible i.e no dry sump.
I really like ZX12Rs but understand there no quite so easy to fit as an R1 or ZX10.
With out causing any scrapping between you all, whats best to go for?
[Edited on 16/1/08 by Loco_Bill]
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 10:40 PM |
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to get you going R1 carb engine 5jj
almost fuel injection power with half the loom
hth chris
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bigrich
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 10:55 PM |
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from personal experience a carbed blade is about as easy as it gets, zx10r is more involved wiring wise, but not that much more difficult just more
expensive really.
zx12r is a good lump slightly heavy but is proving reliable Q team hellfire
Rich
pictures of both in my archive if you want to have a look 919 blade and 2006 ZX10r
.JPG)
A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
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caber
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 11:04 PM |
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Just get the bike carbs and put a car engine in, far easier
Caber
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 11:06 PM |
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rich is right the fireblade carb is even easier to get going
r1 is still easy
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worX
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 11:38 PM |
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I'd say Carb'd FireBlade engine (and not just because I have one). They are slightly more reliable than most others, the wiring is very
easy to sort and the cooling system is the easiest ever!
Steve
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Loco_Bill
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 11:49 PM |
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Cheers for all the input guys
I think i definitely wanna go fuel injected as i believe theres more potential for fine set up tuning and management. Electronics and Wiring looms
don't scare me too much, its more all this chopping the sump up and complicated cooling systems.
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worX
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 12:27 AM |
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Then you ought to start thinking ZX10R and locating a freelander diff!
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by Loco_Bill
Cheers for all the input guys
I think i definitely wanna go fuel injected as i believe theres more potential for fine set up tuning and management. Electronics and Wiring looms
don't scare me too much, its more all this chopping the sump up and complicated cooling systems.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 12:51 AM |
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As I've wired an early blade and a ZX12R i can confess the blade in comparison was a doddle. However, the ZX12R wasn't too difficult once
I'd got my head around it... wiring apart, there's little difference between them.
Both examples on our website...
Steve
[Edited on 17-1-08 by Hellfire]
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nitram38
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 11:34 AM |
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Although less wiring on any carb bec, aren't emissions then an issue?
Rejetting and rolling road costs?
I have an 05 R1 inj with power commander and innovate lambda gauge.
It might be a little more expensive but tuning should be a diy job.
Keeping an eye on the lambda gauge and having the power commander will mean re-tuning as I drive.
A rolling road cannot simmulate air flow into the engine so what might work on the rolling road might be running too lean/rich on the road.
Having a rear engine I am retaining the standard airbox, but ducting 2 NACA scoops via 3" hose to hopefully give a bit of "ram
air". This means that the rolling road tuning might be out. That's my theory anyway!
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Coose
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 11:58 AM |
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It's even easier if have either a designated passenger who understands Power Commander software, or a driver whilst you passenger! 
Spin 'er off Well...
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NS Dev
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 12:38 PM |
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As long as you are not bothered by the electonics (and there is no need to be) then as Hellfire suggests, the ZX12r has a lot going for it.
Certainly go for the most cc you can, you need it!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Bob C
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 11:49 PM |
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I'd second the carb R1 recommendation if FI electronics is a worry - the final drive ratio is as car friendly as bikes get, it's light
& easy to mount & I got mine through SVA emissions tests with just a cat (no other 'mixture' bits added) which I subsequently sold
on (smoke test only for MOT on a Q)
Bob
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