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Author: Subject: How low can you go?
tegwin

posted on 11/2/08 at 03:55 PM Reply With Quote
How low can you go?

As mentioned before im toying with the idea of converting a sprint car to be used on the road....

As it stands the ride height is currently at about 2.5-3"...

Obviously the suspension is pretty rock hard, given its a race car...

how much higher do I realistically need to go to make the car useable on the road? Some of the boy racers cars are stupidly low...

And would I have to seriously consider putting on softer springs to try and make the ride a bit smoother?

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Mr Whippy

posted on 11/2/08 at 03:56 PM Reply With Quote
any speed bumps near you?

Air suspension perhaps? As I mentioned before I lowered my Cortina so much it slid along the ground when I braked hard but that was the day’s before speed bumps. When I had the front spoiler on my cool bluebird it did have a habit of grinding over speed bumps and only once did I have to reverse out a housing estate do to the bumps being simply to high. Plastic or wood skids will protect the car and if fitting full spoilers don't underestimate the down force, it's very high.

[Edited on 11/2/08 by Mr Whippy]





Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet

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RazMan

posted on 11/2/08 at 03:59 PM Reply With Quote
I originally had mine set to 100mm at the front (120mm at the back) and ended up raising it another 10mm to prevent speedbumps being so much of a problem. They still scrape but not as bad now.

Even with rock hard suspension I think you might be pushing it at anything less than 90mm.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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smart51

posted on 11/2/08 at 04:14 PM Reply With Quote
My Vortx is 100mm to the bottom of the chassis, with the sump being a little lower. With the old nosecone (curved lower edge) I had no problems with speed bumps. With the new shape nose cone with a square lower edge, I get over speed bumps only if going slowly. The slope of the old nose meant that the tyres hit speed bumps first, lifting up the car.

I saw a repeat of top gear at the weekend with the ford GT on the track. Under braking, the nose almost touched the ground. If you spot a speed hump a bit late in one of those and brake hard, it will sound very expensive.

For myself, I’d look for 75mm worst case, perhaps a bit lower between the wheels and an angle of 30° forwards of the front tyres and rearwards of the rear tyres

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Andy North

posted on 11/2/08 at 04:35 PM Reply With Quote
At 80mm I have had to get out and get the car off a speed hump when I was in the UK. Luckily there are no speed humps around here.

[Edited on 11/2/08 by Andy North]

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BenB

posted on 11/2/08 at 04:43 PM Reply With Quote
I'm running 85-90mm at the moment. Not too much of a problem though I do have to take it easy when approaching speed bumps as any dipping of the nose would be bad....

Once I've got the dry sump installed I'll wind out some of the pre-load on the front shocks and lower the nose a bit...

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02GF74

posted on 11/2/08 at 04:46 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Andy North
At 80mm I have had to get out and get the car off a speed hump when I was in the UK. Luckily there are no speed humps around here.



one more reason to emigrate to France.

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blakep82

posted on 11/2/08 at 06:12 PM Reply With Quote
mines gonna be something like 85mm, considering hydraulic suspension for it later





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nitram38

posted on 11/2/08 at 07:14 PM Reply With Quote
The F1-2 is 100mm but will only go between the pillow humps.
The MotaLeira runs at only 75mm, but I have a secret weapon! (no it is not a jack hammer).
I am using Air suspension so I can take the car from 0-150mm by using two switches.

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tegwin

posted on 12/2/08 at 09:23 AM Reply With Quote
What pneumatic system are you using Nitram?

Presumably you wont be able to drive very far with the suspension raised that high? (What with the geometery getting nocked out of square...)

I guess the only way to have adjustable suspesion like yours is to have pushrods all round...

Not very practical on a solid rear axle..

[Edited on 12/2/08 by tegwin]

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nitram38

posted on 12/2/08 at 09:55 AM Reply With Quote
The secret of the suspension is to work out your wishbone lengths and mounts so that there is less camber change over a greater range of movement.
The suspension will be set up for 75mm off the road and the camber gain will be minimal from 75mm to 150mm.
The shocks are bilsteins and the kit with compressor, gauge, switches and pipes cost £850 from Arnott industries, Cape Canaveral Florida.
I don't plan on running the car at 150mm except for roads with speed bumps, car shows or the damn tunnels at donnington! (those with low cars will know what I mean)

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