Paradoxia0
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 10:37 PM |
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Zetec "clatter"
Hi All
I am afraid this is about my other half's Mundano again...
After changing the plugs due to a missfire this weekend I ran it and gave it a few revvs to test that the miss had gone, and the engine sounds
dreadful. At about 3500 it sounds like a diesel running on no oil - i.e. extremely clattery (luckily she virtually never goes above 2500rpm so she has
never noticed it.
Any suggestions as what it could be or how to remedy it?
Cheers
Mark
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 10:47 PM |
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Actually.....
Just been perusing the net and found this:
Mondeo
I know she has been topping it up with 10-40W so maybe that is the problem...
Would anyone agree?
Mark
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jambojeef
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 10:48 PM |
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My money would be on knackered hydraulic valve adjusters.
There is obviously one atop each of the valve stems and each needs pressurised oil to provide the right clearance.
Id reckon on infrequent oil changes in the past being enough to do it.
You could get lucky and try an oil flush or replace them.
I had this on my BOA 24v Cosworth engine and got away with a flush for a while but they needed replacing really.
All the above assumes of course that theres no other nasty symptoms?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 10:48 PM |
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Oh yes
Zetecs are VERY fussy on there oil
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 10:58 PM |
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I think I will try a flush and put the proper oil in this time! (as I seriously cannot afford to buy a new car )
Should I use an additive to help with the flushing or just warm her up and drain it? - If yes, what do people recommend? (I have never used an aditive
before so not sure...)
Thanks
Mark
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jambojeef
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 11:07 PM |
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Just get a can of that wynns engine flush stuff from halfords - not used anything else to compare it to but it seems to make the oil a little runnier
anyway - I seem to remember reading the ingredients and its mostly diesel but I would think that the locost instinct might be best avoided on this
one!
The can says to run for a max of 50 miles with the flush in but I would double that if I were you and when you drain the oil make sure its nice and
hot.
Do you have history of previous oil changes?
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 11:14 PM |
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Unfortuneatly (and fortunately in another way) my misses tends to sort her own car. Take it to a local garage near where she works etc. etc.
Unfortunately money is tight at the moment she has had to get me to sort a few things out which is why I spotted the issue.
The other thing I have read is that the valves stick if the car is not run over 4000rpm regularly. Would that suggest that once the oil is changed
for the proper stuff I should take it out for a "thrash" to get everything going again or best err on the side of caution?
Cheers
Mark
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stevebubs
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 11:18 PM |
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Ford engines are very fussy.
The local stealership puts what can only be described as "fleet oil" in the cars when they go in for a service (a car going in with
"clear" oil will come out with stuff that's as black as crude.
A friend has put 2 cars in there. Each time the engine has become "noisy" within about 50 miles of the service. Takes 2/3 flushes with
good oil to get rid of the mechanical sounds.
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MKMike
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| posted on 2/3/08 at 11:28 PM |
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Could be the wrong grade of oil. I believe the it should be 5w30.
I had a similar problem with a mitsubishi I owned a few years ago. Some one told me use flushing oil (directions as on the tin - cannot remember
what brand I used), and then fill it with fully synthetic oil. It seemed to work!
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skodaman
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 03:19 AM |
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My Mundano has 15w/50 in and runs fine so I doubt it's wrong type of oil . I'd go with Jambobeef on the hydraulic tappets though. Check
you've got enough oil in though cos will clatter like hell if oil level is low.
Skodaman
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 07:39 AM |
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Definately need to use the recommended 5w30 in a Zetec. I worked for 2 years at Shell Research and was right next door to the vehicle testing dept
where all the mechanics work (and all the lovely specialist tools lived that i got to borrow). I was talking to an ex Ford mechanic in there at the
time i was building my Zetec Tiger and he told me it was really important to use the right oil or the hydraulic tappets dont work properly.
5L of the correct grade oil managed to find its way into my possession - purely for testing purposes of course. 
[Edited on 3/3/08 by Paul TigerB6]
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coozer
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 08:15 AM |
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I'll go with the oil grade.. you need to use the stuff that is recommended for zetec's. 5w30. Halfords sell it quite cheap.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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zetec
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 09:30 PM |
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I would pay the little extra and get the Ford E oil, works out about £20 per oil change.
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balidey
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| posted on 7/3/08 at 09:04 AM |
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Hi Mark,
Only just noticed this thread.
Before buying an engine flush, go into Wilkos, they sell the Wynns stuff a lot less than Halfords prices.
Not had any experience of zetec engines, but I know that some cars with hydraulic tappets, to get rid of clatter you can remove the tappets, soak them
overnight in a bath of diesel, then fill with oil, re-fit and they should be back to new. Maybe worth a try? Not sure whats involved in doing this on
a zetec though.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/3/08 at 12:24 PM |
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Tip from a stateside mate who help me out with Chevy V8 problems - Best trick with hydrualic tappets is to stick a litre of ATF into the engine oil
and run it for a couple of days before changing the oil.
Cleans out all the manky stuff --- don't leave it in any longer as it contains a fair bit of sulphur which is abrasive.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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