ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 07:32 AM |
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Air Box & Induction Ideas
Hi Guys
I’ve been thinking (Bad Idea it always costs), about the induction system I intend to build.
I am going to build an air box with a removable top (obviously so I can fit it) with a spigot to take a filter or ducting. Unfortunately due to space
issues I need to fit the spigot to the rear of the box.
I have come up with two solution and would like to know what you all think, and if you see any problems.
The easiest solution is just to fit a cone filter to the air box. The problem I see with this is that the filter will be drawing in hot air from the
engine bay. I have a bec bonnet with the Air scoop on it and I done foresee the engine bay getting excessively hot.
The second option is to fit a canister filter to a support bracket I fitted some time ago and run ducting to the air box and than out through the side
of the car. The flange brackets shown come as a pair, the first will be used with out mesh as the flange to the air box, whilst the other would be
used with mesh to collect air from outside the car.
The only problem is that the canister filter has no bhp rating and I don’t know if this will restrict the air flow to my engine.
Looking at the burtons catalogue the diameter of the filter/ opening limits the power.
60mm 120 bhp
70mm 150 bhp
75mm 170 bhp
80mm 190 bhp
The engine I bought was rated at 165 bhp so the 75mm is pushing the boundaries. So do any of you know where I can buy bigger flanges?
Any comments and advice eagerly awaited.
ditch
 
Rescued attachment Induction option 2.JPG
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 07:33 AM |
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option 2
ditch
 
Rescued attachment airbox 2.JPG
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 07:34 AM |
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A better idea of option 1
Ditch
 
Rescued attachment airbox 1.JPG
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 07:40 AM |
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Be careful with the side panel option, if it sets up a venturi effect then it will suck air out of the engine. Point it forwards to the front of the
car alongside the rad if possible then you get a degree of ram air.
steve
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 07:52 AM |
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thanks for that i did not know about venturi effect. the problem i have at the front is space to get anything over the rad.
the side panels stop just behind the front suspension, would this be a good place to fit a bracket inside the car facing forward and connect the hose
to that?
ditch
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Eggy
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 07:58 AM |
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I've had a go at this - feel free to look in my archive - I can't seem to get pictures to post on here??
(I will get round to putting some more pictures in there!)
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 08:24 AM |
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a lot better than i can manage very professional looking.
i think my rad sits a little higher than yours and so the gap at the top is much less
I've found 100mm flanges in B & Q online for use with tumble dryers.
maybe a hybrid is on the way a cone fliter fixed at the front and fed buy convoluted ducting.
ditch
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coozer
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 08:41 AM |
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Click on my blog below, I have just uploaded a picture of my homemade (rubbish) airbox, made out of an old washing machine.
Designed to fit under the bonnet it is connected to a canister air filter affair (CBS £40) it will have a hose going to the front to collect cold air
and hopefully a positive pressure as well. It took AGES to make it
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 08:49 AM |
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Looks Good
the CBS filter is the one i was looking at, does it have 75mm Inside Diameter openings?
what do you think of it's quality?
ditch
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coozer
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 08:56 AM |
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The filter is a nice bit of kit, looks really nice (bling!) well worth £40 when you look at the price a BMC unit for example.
It comes with adapters, hose clips and does have 3" diameter ins and outs.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Eggy
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 09:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ditchlewis
a lot better than i can manage very professional looking.
i think my rad sits a little higher than yours and so the gap at the top is much less
I've found 100mm flanges in B & Q online for use with tumble dryers.
maybe a hybrid is on the way a cone fliter fixed at the front and fed buy convoluted ducting.
ditch
Thanks, it turned out better than I had hoped and that's the first time I've picked up a TIG torch! (Thankfully my younger brother works
at a sheet metal fabrication place so the material was FOC) cool:
It seems to run ok but it's not been on the rollers yet
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 10:03 AM |
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Heres what I did.
Steve
 
Rescued attachment Ad engine 2.jpg
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 10:08 AM |
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Ooooh
what size filter is that? (inlet and out let)
where did you get it, it does not look that locost
coozer it looks good and is about the right size and price. and if burtons is correct the 75mm should be enough for the engine.
ditch
[Edited on 11/4/08 by ditchlewis]
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 10:16 AM |
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Filter off ebay - £20, Carbon exhaust can off a KTM I think £13 off ebay, clamps alu from ebay US £15, I thinks I got the duct off ebay per metre and
it was £20.
Steve
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 10:16 AM |
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Filter was 100mm IIRC.
Steve
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 10:19 AM |
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Ebay link for duct.
Try this
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 10:23 AM |
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many thanks steve true locost with a hicost look
i'm at work and cant access ebay here will do it when i get home.
ditch
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coozer
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 10:45 AM |
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Sorry forgot to say the filter canister comes with 1m of duct as well.
Steve
[Edited on 11/4/08 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Jos Fury
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 11:18 AM |
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I have made an airbox too with remote filter for my gsxr throttle bodies. I used a green air filter etc. At this moment I am not going to use it
though. I wanted to duct the air from the front of the car too, hose going alongside of the radiotor. If it is of any use just let me know.
the flange on the airbox is 80mm if I am not mistaking.
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 11:43 AM |
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I used most of the bits you have listed in option 2 to do mine. If you ignore the Rotrex supercharger and imagine the ducting curving up to an inlet
plenum then that'll be option 2!
I've since fitted a shield to stop the wheel flicking stones and water in the inlet.
 
Filter side panel inlet
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 11:43 AM |
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many thanks for the offer. I'm running twin dellorto 45's on a pinto so it wont fit i'm affraid.
I'm getting depressed now, there is so much talent on this site it makes my feeble attempts at fabrication look poor
well practice makes perfect and i may have a good looking car in about 20 years
ditch
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 11:49 AM |
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bimbleuk what a star:
does it all work well???:
you obviously don't get a venturi effect?
that ingestion of water and cr*p into the filter was always a concern. i planned to put the intake as far forward / parallel with the wheel.
ditch
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 11:52 AM |
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Just takes a bit of time and patience to do a tidy job sometimes!
Here's how I fitted the filter temporarily to run the engine up on a rolling road prior to the Rotrex fitment. The small side vent in the picture
is now at least 4 times bigger and shields the inlet opening as well.
[img][/img]
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 01:18 PM |
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superb looking car
i think i will go with option 2 and carefully look at the position of the air intake.
having looked at the standard of cars i'm in awe of the skills you all have and wonder how i managed to get mine built and through the SVA.
it's not bad and i have seen worse but your cars look like show cars.
ditch
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mark chandler
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 01:31 PM |
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and mine ! not a show car.
Biggest cone filter for £5 off Ebay in front of the radiator, 3" waste pipe to engine and an old turbo right angle bit of hose.
 
Rescued attachment Inlet_plenum_Front_small.jpg
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